Material for waterproofing concrete foundations. Waterproofing: from foundation to roof. Video - Treating the base with liquid rubber

The stability and integrity of the entire structure directly depend on the strength and durability of the foundation. erected on this basis the building, and even, to a certain extent, the safety of the people living in it. That is why special attention is always paid to the process of constructing the foundation part of a building, and only the best building materials are used for this.

However, no matter what high-strength materials have not been used at the “zero cycle”, they all have a common ruthless “enemy” - water, in one or another state of aggregation. Moisture can reduce the strength of the structure being created in a relatively short time, so do-it-yourself waterproofing is the most important stage in the independent construction of your own home, which should never be overlooked.

Why is moisture dangerous for the foundation?

The water that is familiar to all of us, seemingly completely harmless to an amateur’s eye, can cause a lot of trouble to the foundation of a building:

• Firstly, it is known that water has the ability to significantly increase in volume when it transforms into a solid state - when it freezes. Penetrating into micropores and cracks of even the most durable structure when temperatures drop below 0º C, it is capable of expanding them, increasing in size, and sometimes literally tearing them into separate fragments.

• Secondly, water on the surface of the earth, contained in the upper layers of soil and even drop-down in the form of precipitation is never clean. It is always saturated in one concentration or another with very aggressive chemical compounds - industrial emissions, agricultural chemicals, waste oil products, car exhaust, etc. Such substances cause surface erosion of concrete, from which it loses its strength and begins to crumble.

• Thirdly, these same chemical compounds plus dissolved In water, oxygen activates corrosion processes on the reinforcement grid. Not only does the inherent strength of the entire reinforced structure decrease, it leads to the formation of internal cavities in the thickness of the material and ultimately ends in delamination of the upper layers of concrete.
• And fourthly, we must not forget that What water has a pronounced leaching property (how can one not remember the proverb - « water wears away stones). Constant exposure to even pure chemical water is always associated with the gradual washing away of foundation material particles from the surface, the formation of surface sinks, cavities, etc.

Water in the soil adjacent to the foundation can be in different layers and in different states:

• The upper, so-called filtration layer is water that falls with precipitation, formed from melting snow or simply from an external spill (usage water for domestic and agricultural purposes, accidental bursts of highways, etc.). Sometimes, if a high-lying waterproof layer gets in the way of absorption, then in a certain limited area a fairly stable horizon can form - perched water.

The saturation of the upper filtration layer of water is always highly dependent on the time of year, established weather, and amount of precipitation and is not a constant value. In addition to high-quality waterproofing, a well-thought-out storm drainage system will play an important role in reducing the impact of moisture from this layer on the foundation of the building.

• The upper layers of the soil always contain soil (ground) moisture, which is constantly retained there due to capillarity or the adhesive properties of the soil. Its concentration is quite constant and depends very little on the level of precipitation, time of year and etc.. It does not exert any dynamic, leaching loads on the foundation, and its negative impact is limited to capillary penetration into materials and chemical “aggression”.

To counteract ground moisture, a waterproof layer of waterproofing is sufficient. True, in excessively wet areas of the area, with a tendency to waterlogging, it will be necessary to provide a water drainage system.

• Underground groundwater is the upper aquifers characteristic of a particular area and its topography. The depth of their occurrence depends on the location of the water-resistant soil layers, and the filling capacity is quite strongly influenced by seasonal factors - abundant snow melting, prolonged rains or, conversely, established drought.

The depth of these aquifers and its seasonal fluctuations can be clearly observed in the nearest well - ordinary or technological drainage. In addition to direct penetration into the thickness of the foundation material, these waters can also exert hydrostatic pressure on the buried part of the structure. If such layers are located at a high level, the maximum amount of waterproofing work will be required, with the obligatory installation of an effective drainage system around the building.

What types of waterproofing are used to protect the foundation?

In order to prevent the negative impact of moisture on the foundation, the following types of waterproofing and other construction and installation works are used:

• Giving construction materials with additional water-repellent properties.
• Creation waterproof coatings on the vertical walls of the foundation, from its base to the top edge of the base.
• Reliable waterproofing of horizontal interlevel seams, preventing capillary upward penetration of moisture.
• Reliable protection of the waterproofing itself from external mechanical influences.
• Measures to reduce the negative impact of negative temperatures.
• Installation of a drainage system around the house.
• Creation of a reliable system for draining rain and melt water - drainage and storm sewerage.
• Ensuring reliable ventilation of basements and basements.

The proposed figure shows, as an example, a possible general scheme for waterproofing the foundation of a building:

The diagrams are marked with numbers:

1 – the base of the foundation, which usually rests on a compacted sand and gravel bed. Between it and the vertical wall of the foundation (2) there must be a cut-off horizontal waterproofing (4), which overlaps with the insulating layer arranged in basement floor rooms (4) between the base and the screed.

The outer vertical wall has a coating waterproofing coating (5), additionally protected by a waterproof membrane (7) and covered with a layer of geotextile (8), which protects against abrasive and other mechanical effects.

The upper edge of the plinth (foundation wall) is also necessarily covered with waterproofing roll material (6), on top of which further construction of the walls and ceilings of the building will be carried out.

To remove moisture, a drainage system is provided - pipes (9) laid around the perimeter at the level of the base of the foundation in a gravel cage. For more reliable protection against water from precipitation entering deep into the soil, it is advisable to build a clay castle around the house (10).

In areas with a harsh climate, severe freezing of the upper layers of the soil, or in the case where residential or utility premises are planned to be located in the basement or basement, the waterproofing system of the foundation and basement is complemented by a system for their insulation:

The diagram in general terms repeats the one posted above, so the main numbering of parts and assemblies is preserved. In addition shown:

1.1 – sand and gravel cushion under the base of the foundation. This layer can also be made of lean concrete with coarse-grained filling.

12 – insulating panels made of extruded polystyrene foam, installed externally on top of rolled waterproofing along the entire height of the foundation and basement walls.

13 – plaster layer of the basement finishing. Currently, special base thermal panels are often used instead - they provide both insulation and reliable protection from direct exposure to water.

14 – wall of the building being erected. The figure clearly shows that it begins to be laid from the layer of horizontal cut-off waterproofing of the foundation.

The choice of a specific type of waterproofing, and therefore the materials used for it, largely depends on the specific purpose of the room located in the basement. The existing classification (according to BS 8102 standards adopted in Europe) divides them into four classes:

• The first, lowest class is utility or technical premises that are not equipped with electrical networks. They tolerate wet spots or even small leaks. The wall thickness must be at least 150 mm.
• The second class also includes technical or utility rooms, but already equipped with ventilation, in which only wet fumes are allowed, without the formation of damp spots, with a wall thickness of at least 200 mm. It is already permitted to install electrical appliances of standard mains voltage here.
• Third class is the most common, and most of all of interest to individual developers. It includes all residential buildings, offices, retail outlets, and social facilities. The thickness of the walls should not be less than 250 mm; a natural or forced ventilation system is required. No moisture penetration is allowed.
• As a rule, you don’t have to deal with the fourth class of premises when building your own home - these are objects with a specially created microclimate - archival storage facilities, libraries, laboratories and others, where special requirements are imposed on a constant, clearly established level of humidity.

The table below shows the recommended types of waterproofing and the materials used for its installation, indicating its degree of strength, the protection created from one or another effect of groundwater and compatibility with the classes of equipped premises:

After viewing the table, one can make a very erroneous conclusion that, for example, for a residential building, just one type of insulation will be sufficient. Practice shows that this may clearly not be enough, and most often an integrated approach is used, when one type, combined with another, creates a truly reliable waterproof barrier for the foundation.

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation

It is advisable to start the review with horizontal waterproofing. The fact is that it can be carried out exclusively during the construction of the building. If the vertical one can be carried out even on a fully constructed building, for example, after purchasing a finished house, then it is almost impossible to carry out the overlooked horizontal one - it is always planned in advance. There are, however, modern methods of injection waterproofing, but they are very expensive and still remain only a half-measure aimed at minimizing previously made miscalculations.

• The first unique waterproofing level is a compacted sand and gravel cushion under the foundation soles being laid or under the monolithic structure being poured.
• If it is planned to pour a concrete slab in a basement or basement room, then its first layer is also made over such a backfill, so that the level is equal in height to the top edge of the laid soles or the first layer of “tape”. Made from lean concrete. This is where the first layer of horizontal waterproofing is laid - the room is completely covered from below from the penetration of soil water. In addition, a barrier is created against the capillary rise of moisture along the walls of the future foundation.

• Waterproofing is carried out using roofing felt, adjacent sheets of which are laid with overlaps of 100 - 150 mm, with the obligatory “boiling” of them using a gas burner. If layers of roofing material are combined, laid on the floor and on platforms for further pouring of the foundation tape, then the overlaps are increased to 250 — 300 mm.
• It is recommended to spare no expense and perform such insulation even in two layers. In this case, the stripes of the second layer should be oriented perpendicular to the first.

The second “line of defense” against the capillary spread of moisture should be organized at the point where the monolithic foundation (after it is poured) transitions into the basement part, if this is provided for by the project. The importance of this waterproofing layer is clearly demonstrated in the diagram presented:

For such waterproofing, the same roofing material is used, laid on a completely hardened and strengthened concrete base, cleaned of dirt and dust and thoroughly primed tar mastic. The material is laid in at least two layers by gluing them together with mastic or using a thermal method (fusion).

If the project does not provide for a separate base, and its role will be played by the protruding above-ground part of the monolithic foundation, then this step is understandably skipped. But in any case, exactly the same actions are taken along the upper edge of the foundation or plinth, regardless of whether floor slabs are laid on this basis or walls are built from any material.

Sometimes work on waterproofing the upper horizontal plane of the foundation is combined with similar operations on vertical walls, thereby obtaining one monolithic insulator surface.

Vertical waterproofing of foundation walls and plinth

Vertical waterproofing of foundation walls is a prerequisite for long-term trouble-free operation of the building. When building a new house, it is thought out in advance. It is also carried out on houses that have been built a long time ago - if there are obvious signs that the old waterproofing is clearly not coping with its functions - there are pronounced traces of moisture penetration into the premises, or if when purchasing a house there is no certainty that such work was carried out previously.

• To carry out such waterproofing work, it will be necessary to expose the foundation walls to the maximum possible depth - right down to its base. During construction, this factor is usually taken into account immediately, leaving the necessary trench around the perimeter - it will be needed both for waterproofing and for installing a drainage system.
• On an old building you will have to start with excavation work. First, the concrete blind area around the base is dismantled - using a hammer drill or manually. Then they dig deeper, going deeper to the bottom of the foundation. The width of the trench can be any - the main thing is that it allows you to freely carry out all the necessary actions. Usually a width of up to 1 meter is sufficient.
• The walls are thoroughly cleaned of soil residues and inspected.
• All loose areas, peelings, and unstable areas must be unconditionally removed. The surface must be cleaned to a monolithic structure.
• If a layer of waterproofing is applied to the walls, but its functionality is questionable, then it is also better to completely remove it.

Repair of wall surfaces and their impregnating (penetrating) waterproofing

• All cracks and cracks on the surface are cut into rectangular grooves measuring 25 × 25 mm along the entire length. Similar operations are carried out in places of vertical and horizontal joints of reinforced concrete blocks with the removal of old mortar. If the foundation is block or made of brick, the seams are cleaned to the same depth - up to 25 mm.

• As a repair composition, we can recommend the specialized waterproofing dry construction mixture “Penecrete”, which is used in combination with the deep penetration primer “Penetron”.

- "Penecritus" has good plasticity, high adhesion to almost all building materials, and after complete hardening it becomes reliable waterproofing agent, firmly “sealing” seams and cracks. It is important that after filling the seams the material does not shrink.

— “Penetron” or other primers of similar action penetrate deeply into the thickness of concrete, forming additional crystalline bonds there, which significantly strengthens the material, and firmly closing the pores, preventing capillary penetration of moisture.

The advantage of these materials is that they are applied to a wet surface, thereby reducing the time required for work - during construction there is no need to wait for the concrete to dry completely.

“Penecrete” is prepared in the usual way - like any dry construction mixture, using a construction mixer or drill with an attachment, in strict accordance with the instructions supplied with it. "Penetron" is sold in a ready-to-use form.

• So, all cut cracks, joints and seams are first moistened with ordinary water, and then primed"Penetron".
• Then, they are filled as tightly as possible, without leaving air “pockets”, with a repair composition - “penecrete” to the general level of the wall.
• After setting of the repair mortar over the entire surface The outer wall of the foundation must be moistened (you can use a hose with a spray nozzle) and covered in two layers with the same deep penetration soil.
• If possible, then That Exactly the same operations are carried out on the internal walls of the foundation.

The created system of protection against moisture penetration is quite effective. There is even an opinion that she can single-handedly cope with the tasks of foundation waterproofing, and, carried out even on one side of the wall. Nevertheless, it is still better to use such an impregnation technology as the main one only from the inside and on the part of the foundation or plinth protruding above the surface of the earth. On the outside, it is still worth playing it safe and protecting the walls in the area of ​​their direct contact with the ground with additional waterproof layers.

Video: using penetrating waterproofing of the Penetrat system

Coating vertical waterproofing of foundation

Coating waterproofing of foundation walls is perhaps the most common technology among private developers. It is quite simple to implement - almost anyone can do it, does not require excessively high material costs, and does not take much time.

To work you will need:

— Bitumen primer - it can be purchased in a ready-made form at the store (bitumen primers). It is not difficult to make it yourself - bitumen heated to a fluid state is mixed with a solvent, which is most often used as gasoline. The weight ratio of gasoline to bitumen should be approximately 1:3 ÷ 1:4. It is important that when preparing the primer, bitumen is poured into gasoline, and not vice versa. The composition should have an even liquid consistency, similar to regular paint.

Prices for waterproofing for foundations

Waterproofing for foundation

Step-by-step instructions for waterproofing a foundation with self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material “Technoelast-Barrier (BO)”

The table below provides illustrated step-by-step instructions for performing waterproofing work on the foundation using a roll of self-adhesive material on a bitumen-polymer base, “Technoelast-Barrier (BO)” from the well-known Russian manufacturer “TechnoNIKOL”.

This rolled material (standard release form is a 20×1 m roll) is designed for waterproofing concrete slab bases, floors, and plinths, with a depth from the ground surface of up to 3 meters, and the absence of high groundwater. The convenience of “Technoelast-Barrier (BO)” is that its use does not require additional equipment, is not associated with “hot” processes, that is, there is no stage of melting using a gas burner - work can be carried out even on a flammable base, in enclosed spaces and limited spaces.

Prices for Technoelast-Barrier

TechnoNIKOL technoelast

Illustration	Brief description of the operation being performed.
	The material itself is a baseless structure, consisting of a top layer - a dense polymer film with the TechnoNIKOL logo printed on it, and a second layer - a bitumen-polymer viscous composite material that has excellent adhesion to prepared substrates. Before installing the material, this adhesive layer is covered with a special protective film backing, which is removed immediately before installation.
	The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer does not need to be subjected to thermal effects - the material is simply glued to the treated surface, and then straightened and rolled using wide brushes, rubber or silicone rollers, or hand rollers. Other tools you will need are a knife for cutting the material, a tape measure, a ruler, a square for taking measurements, marking and cutting, a roller and a brush for preliminary priming of the surface.
	Let's start our consideration with horizontal waterproofing. As already mentioned in the article, this could be, for example, a slab foundation or a floor in a basement or basement. First of all, you need to make sure once again that there are no gross defects on the surface - potholes, cracks, sagging of hardened mortar and other serious flaws. All this must be eliminated - removed or repaired, achieving a flat surface, otherwise the chosen waterproofing method may become ineffective. The rolled material should adhere tightly to the surface over its entire area.
	It is easy to check the evenness of the surface for waterproofing by applying a long rule to it.
	Perfect evenness is not required - it is quite enough if the differences in a two-meter area are no more than 5 millimeters.
	In order for the primer to lay well and evenly on the surface, it must be cleared of small construction debris and dust. To do this, it is carefully swept...
	... and ideally, it is best to clean it and completely remove dust using a powerful construction vacuum cleaner.
	The next step is to apply a primer, that is, a special bitumen composition - a primer. However, there are certain restrictions on the use of various primers, depending on the moisture level of the concrete surface. Residual moisture is measured using a special device - a moisture meter. It is clear that not everyone has such a device. You can get by with a simpler solution - put a 1000x1000 mm polyethylene film on the fully matured concrete surface, gluing it around the perimeter with tape. If after 24 hours there are no drops of condensation on the film, then the concrete can be considered dry, with a residual moisture content of less than 4% by weight.
	In such conditions, you can use TechnoNIKOL primers No. 01 and No. 03 on an organic basis.
	If the residual moisture content of the concrete exceeds 4%, then you can use the water-soluble primer “TechnoNIKOL” No. 04. But even in this case, the humidity cannot be more than 8%, that is, the concrete must fully gain strength and mature. It makes no sense to carry out any waterproofing work on a foundation that has not met the entire period required for maturation.
	The primer is spread thickly and sparingly over the surface using a roller. A consumption of 300÷350 ml per square meter of area is considered normal.
	It is necessary to ensure that the distribution of the primer over the surface is uniform, without “bald spots”. In hard-to-reach places, especially at the intersection of vertical and horizontal surfaces, you cannot do without using a brush.
	It is recommended that after applying the primer there is no long pause before laying the main waterproofing material. The only thing you need to wait for is for the applied primer to dry completely. This is easy to check - press a regular paper napkin onto the treated surface, which already seems dry. If black marks remain on it, it is too early to proceed to further operations.
	But if the napkin remains clean after such an “experiment”, we can assume that the concrete surface is ready for basic waterproofing work
	The waterproofing roll is delivered to the work site. On a horizontal surface, you can mark a line along which the first strip of material will be laid.
	The outer packaging of the roll is opened and removed as unnecessary.
	The next step is to roll out the Technoelast-Barrier (BO) roll along the entire length of the area to be waterproofed. At the same time, it is necessary to adjust its position so that the spread canvas lies exactly along the intended line. Naturally, the rolling is carried out so that the polymer layer with the logo is at the top, and the protective film backing is at the bottom.
	After rolling out, the sheet is cut in place. It is best to do this along a ruler, using a sharp construction knife.
	After trimming, the canvas spread along its entire length must be carefully rolled from both sides to the center without moving its position. It is more convenient, of course, to perform this and all further operations together, together with an assistant.
	In order to prevent distortions in the direction and creases of the waterproofing material itself when rolling, it is recommended to use old cardboard sleeves as reels for these purposes.
	Now the final laying of the material begins. First, you need to cut the film backing material along the transverse line along the entire width of the roll. This must be done carefully, without pressing the knife, so as not to accidentally cut through the canvas.
	After this, along the cut made, the substrate is separated in a narrow strip from the adhesive surface of the waterproofing, also along the entire width of the roll.
	Now, gradually pulling out the backing film, the roll is finally laid out from the center in one direction. The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer comes into adhesive contact with the concrete surface coated with a bitumen primer.
	It is more advisable to do the work together: one worker, pulling out the film backing, gradually unrolls the roll. The second, without hesitation, immediately smoothes the laid canvas, expelling possible air bubbles from under it. The most convenient way to do this is to use a wide brush with a long handle, as shown in the illustration. Then the same operation is repeated in the other direction from the center. As a result, the first sheet is laid. For the central areas of the glued canvas, pressing with a brush (with a well-prepared concrete surface) is sufficient. But it is advisable to also roll the edges, in a strip of approximately 150 mm on each side, with a heavy metal or rubber roller.
	When gluing the next sheet lying parallel to the first, observe the following rule - the overlap should be at least 100 millimeters. The overlap strip is rolled with a roller to ensure complete sealing of the sheet joint.
	Of course, when laying waterproofing, they try to use entire sheets along the entire length. But sooner or later a situation arises when you have to join two strips along the end edge. There are also certain standards here.
	Even at the stage of “trying on” the next canvas, the necessary margin for overlap is immediately laid down.
	The minimum width of the overlap strip should be 150 millimeters.
	But that's not all. If you get a T-shaped joint, that is, two sheets laid and connected along the end side simultaneously overlap along their long side with the previously laid sheet, it is recommended to perform another operation. On the sheet that ends up in the middle (that is, the edge lies on the previously laid sheet, and then overlaps at the end with the next one), it is necessary to cut off the corner.
	The dimensions of the legs of this removable triangle correspond to the above parameters for the overlap of the canvases along the length and at the end. A rigid lining is placed under the edge of the sheet, and the corner is cut off with a knife.
	After this, the final “assembly” of this connecting unit is carried out, which is then necessarily rolled with a heavy roller for reliable sealing. The cut of the middle sheet in the joint turns out to be “packed” between the upper and lower sheets, so that the tightness is fully ensured.
	If similar T-shaped connecting nodes are found on adjacent strips, then the distance between them should be at least 500 millimeters. By the way, in this illustration you can clearly see the same cut corner, covered with the top sheet and rolled with a roller (shown by the red arrow).
	The work continues in the same manner until the entire horizontal surface requiring waterproofing is covered. The waterproofing layer itself also needs protection. If it is not intended to be backfilled with soil (for example, it is the floor of a basement or basement floor or a monolithic foundation slab), then a reinforced concrete screed (the so-called screed without connection to the base, on a separating layer), with a thickness of at least 50, must be installed over such waterproofing. millimeters.
	Now we move on to vertical waterproofing of the foundation. This is usually a more complex operation, since the surface often has many intersections of planes, both vertically and horizontally. Work is always carried out in sections from bottom to top, that is, the upper canvases overlap the lower ones, allowing free drainage for moisture (the sequence and direction are shown schematically in the illustration). But before this, it is necessary to carry out a whole series of preliminary operations - surface preparation, formation of transition fillets, priming and creation of a reinforcement belt. Let's talk about everything in order.
	They begin again by checking the condition of the waterproofed surface. There should be no high sagging, bumps, dips, cracks and crevices, that is, anything that can interfere with the tight fit of the Technoelast-Barrier (BO) fabrics over its entire area, without leaving air voids.
	The requirements for level differences are the same as on a horizontal surface, that is, within 5 millimeters over a two-meter area.
	When vertically waterproofing the foundation, sharp fractures from top to bottom are completely unacceptable, that is, pronounced horizontal internal angles, which can become an area of ​​moisture accumulation. That is, along the line of intersection of the vertical and horizontal planes, it is necessary to take measures to straighten the fracture as much as possible. This is done by laying out so-called transition fillets. The cross-section and dimensions of such a fillet (at least 100 millimeters along each leg) are shown in the illustration.
	To lay out fillets, you can use a regular cement-sand mortar, for example, in a ratio of 1:3. But in this case, you will have to wait for the concrete to completely harden “in full,” that is, within 4 weeks. So it is better to lay out the fillets immediately after removing the formwork from the foundation slab and discarding the soil from it. The optimal solution would be to use a special polymer-cement based building mixture, intended specifically for waterproofing work - it will create a reliable barrier against moisture in this vulnerable place, and it hardens and gains strength very quickly. The composition is diluted and kneaded in accordance with the instructions attached to it.
	The dry mixture is poured into the required measured volume of water and mixed until completely ready - obtaining a homogeneous plastic consistency.
	Then, using a regular spatula, fillets are formed, adhering to the dimensions indicated above.
	The laid fillets are left until they dry completely and gain strength.
	This illustration clearly demonstrates that fillets are laid out at all internal corners of the transition from the vertical to the horizontal plane. After the fillets are completely ready, they move on to the next stage of work.
	The next step is to thickly coat the entire surface for waterproofing with primer. On large areas it will be more convenient to work with a roller.
	But all difficult areas of the surface - external and internal corners and fillets - must be coated with a brush, so that not the slightest gap remains untreated with primer. Subsequent operations are carried out after the primer has completely dried - how to check this has already been described above.
	Next comes the most important stage - the creation of the so-called reinforcement belt. Its essence lies in the fact that all “problem” areas, without exception, are initially covered with strips of material, and only then, on top of the reinforcement, will the main waterproofing layer be installed. As already mentioned, the work is carried out from the bottom up. It often happens that work starts from an already waterproofed horizontal base. Another option is that the lower part of the structure consists of a concrete foundation preparation. It will have to be covered with material along its entire width, while adhering to the rules that apply on horizontal surfaces (see above). The illustration, just as an example, shows a belt of horizontal waterproofing 300 mm wide - it is assumed that the surface of the concrete preparation of the foundation has been covered. In the event that such a structural element is not provided (the tape was poured directly onto the sand and gravel bed), then the task is simplified. Our example shows probably the most complex option, with two fractures of the waterproofing surface at different levels.
	When creating reinforcement on any of the fillets, cut out a sheet of such width that there is a strip of at least 100 mm wide on both the top, on the vertical plane, and the bottom, on the horizontal plane.
	As a rule, all elements are cut out and tried on manually, directly at the site of future installation. After adjustment, the fragment is immediately glued to the specified area.
	The scheme of actions is simple: the protective backing is removed from the cut fragment sequentially as it is glued. Any glued element of the reinforcement belt is immediately rolled with a rubber or silicone roller.
	Further, the illustrations show some techniques for gluing waterproofing on various parts of the reinforcement belt. The strip is glued to the outer vertical corner. The rule is still the same - when moving to different planes, the minimum strip width on each of them should be 100 mm.
	"Sole" of the outer corner.
	The inner vertical corner is covered. Naturally, work on creating reinforcement from below should already be completed.
	The upper protruding part of the strip, covering the inner corner, is cut in two, and the “petals” are spread apart.
	The remaining gap between them is sealed on top with a small square fragment of waterproofing.
	Following the basic rules, they waterproof all “problem” areas. Of course, a certain amount of intelligence will be required, making decisions applicable to the specific conditions of the work. In the example under consideration, the finished reinforcement belt looks like this.
	After this, they move on to gluing the main layer of waterproofing. It is recommended to adhere to the rule - no glued canvas should have more than one change in direction, otherwise it may become deformed with the appearance of voids. The work is carried out according to the same principle - from the lower sections to the upper ones: fitting, cutting, and then the final gluing of the fragment are carried out. The overlap on the end part of any fragments should be, as with horizontal waterproofing, at least 150 mm, on the side - 100 mm.
	In this case, the lines of vertical joints at adjacent levels must be spaced at a distance of at least 300 mm.
	The illustrations below show examples of gluing basic waterproofing. The sheet is fitted and cut to cover the horizontal “step” and the vertical wall of the foundation slab located below.
	Unlike the technology of gluing waterproofing using the fusing method, in this case each of the canvases will be attached after fitting from top to bottom. At the top, the protective backing is removed and the canvas is fixed to the surface.
	To ensure secure fixation, the upper part can be immediately rolled with a roller.
	Then, carefully removing the protective film sequentially, gluing the rest of the cut out fragment is carried out.
	They move to the next section of the same level - and continue in the same sequence.
	In areas of large overlap of sheets at the bottom at the inner corners, trim the top sheet diagonally, as shown in the illustration.
	Then this unit is glued, followed by rolling with a roller.
	After complete completion of work at this level, they move higher - to a vertical straight section of the foundation strip. Waterproofing is carried out in compliance with the same rules and technological techniques.
	The glued waterproofing sheets must be fixed along the top edge. For this, an aluminum fixing profile is used, which is attached to the foundation strip with dowels through the holes on it. There is a bend on the profile - it should be located on top in the direction from the wall.
	The profile is tried on, cut to the required size, then holes are drilled in the wall, dowels are driven in and screwed in. Two dowels are placed along the edges of the profile, that is, in the first two holes in a row. Further installation proceeds in increments through one hole.
	If joining of two profiles is necessary, then a compensation gap of about 8 ÷ 10 mm must be left between them.
	After all the planks around the perimeter of the foundation are secured, the gap between the bent edge and the profile wall is tightly filled with polyurethane sealant using a construction syringe.
	As a result, the completely waterproofed surface of the strip foundation looks like this. However, it must be protected from mechanical damage when backfilling the soil.
	For this purpose, extruded polystyrene foam boards can be used. It is rigid and strong enough to withstand mechanical loads, and the foundation strip, among other things, also receives good insulation.
	Another option, when insulation is not required, is to use a special profiled membrane “PLANTER - standard”. It is characterized by high strength, elasticity, and raised “bosses” provide the necessary damping effect when backfilling soil.
	This membrane is attached to the vertical surface of the foundation strip immediately before backfilling the pit. In this case, its relief protrusions should be facing towards the waterproofed surface. At this point, the work on waterproofing the strip foundation can be considered complete.

There are other methods of waterproofing foundation walls - cement-polymer plasters or coating compositions, solid polymer membranes, bentonite mats, similar in principle to a “clay castle”, fusing. However, in the conditions of individual construction, those mentioned in the publication are more often used.

Video: waterproofing the foundation by fusing rolled materials

And lastly, waterproofing the foundation will be effective only in those conditions where a well-thought-out management of storm and melt water is provided - drains from the roof, ebbs on the base, ground or underground storm inlets and drainage channels, etc. If water has direct access under the walls of the building, then sooner or later it will “do its job” and the reliability of the foundation’s waterproofing will be compromised.

Unfortunately, there are cases when a house has already been built and occupied, and it turns out that the foundation waterproofing was either not carried out or was not done well. This is indicated by constantly damp walls in the basement, or even puddles that form at their base. Wall decoration quickly deteriorates, and half-measures taken do not bring results. This is one of the options when you need not only to think about the current situation, but also to take the necessary moisture protection measures. Whether to do it yourself or hire a repair and construction team, everyone decides for themselves. Further in the article we will consider situations when it is desirable or necessary to waterproof the foundation, and what activities can actually be done with your own hands.

When does the need to waterproof an existing foundation arise?

One of the cases was discussed above. Why could this happen? There may be several answers.

1. During construction, no waterproofing was done, since at that moment the soil was dry and there was no underground water. As time passed, the situation changed, and the result was not long in coming.

1. Waterproofing of the foundation of the built house was carried out, but not with the material that corresponds to the existing conditions (for example, when the soil moisture was high, they decided to use bitumen mastic or waterproof plaster).

1. The vertical waterproofing was carried out efficiently, but the drainage system was not taken care of, and the area was swampy. In such conditions, without moisture removal, not a single created hydrobarrier will be effective for a long time.

In what other cases may insufficient waterproofing work occur when a building is constructed?

Let's say there is a small, by today's standards, house on a shallow foundation, which is made on the basis of stone or blocks, that is, it is not monolithic. If you do not take care of draining atmospheric waters from the foundation of the house, during heavy rainfall the soil on which the foundation base rests will become wet and pliable. Since the foundation is not monolithic, some areas settle, which is manifested by cracks appearing on the surface of the walls.

Let's consider another option. The house is old, and for some time now the walls from the inside near the floor have begun to accumulate damp. From the outside, if the wall is not under the cladding, it is also noticeable that the surface is wet closer to the base and in some places moss or mold is already beginning to grow. What can you think about? That's right, over time the waterproofing between the base (basement) and the wall became unusable. Something needs to be done, because during periods of heavy rainfall or melting snow, the wall is very wet, which causes the finish to deteriorate and fungus to develop.

Waterproofing a buried foundation in a constructed building

It’s worth noting right away that the upcoming work is quite large-scale, so you can’t hope to complete the entire volume with your own hands. The action plan in case of such a problem is as follows:

• soil sampling around the perimeter of the building in order to provide access to the foundation surface;

• cleaning the base of the house from adhering soil and assessing its condition, possible causes of getting wet and making a decision about the upcoming set of waterproofing measures;

• carrying out the necessary work and backfilling the soil;

• installation of a blind area around the perimeter of the building.

The set of waterproofing measures depends on the problems discovered during the “opening”. If there is no hydrobarrier coating on the surface at all, it needs to be made. Which material to choose depends again on the conditions found. If the soil moisture is moderate, and water from below is not suitable, you can get by with a relatively inexpensive, in all senses, roll-up waterproofing of the surface. If it is discovered that groundwater has approached, additional care must be taken to arrange a complete drainage system.

In the case where the waterproofing material is applied to the foundation surface, but it allows moisture to pass through, it is worth installing an additional, more reliable water barrier (a film membrane, for example). There is no point in applying another layer of the same product that was used initially. If one layer does not cope with the task, there is no guarantee that the second will be more effective under these conditions.

Important! If a situation arises where waterproofing for some reason does not perform its intended functions, it is imperative to accurately determine the cause of this phenomenon. There can be many factors, from the use of low-quality materials to hidden hydrological features of the building site. Only a competent specialist of the appropriate profile can understand this. It is not advisable to draw conclusions and make decisions on your own in this case.

Protection of non-buried foundations from excess atmospheric moisture

The situation described above happens quite often with both old houses and new buildings. In both options, if we exclude incorrect calculation of the width of the base, this occurs due to the accumulation of excess atmospheric moisture in low places near the foundation. That is, there is a deepening of the soil topography, where after rains or melting snow, vast puddles constantly form. There is a deep supersaturation of soil moisture, which is why reliable support disappears under the foundation in this place.

How to remove moisture from the base of the house in this case? There are two ways to correct the situation, or rather a combination of them:

• drainage of water to another place (outside the site or into a specially created underground reservoir) by creating surface drainage;

• arrangement of a wide, durable blind area.

You can make your own drainage from any durable pipe made of weather-resistant material, directing it away from the problem area onto a slope. It is possible that for this it will need to be buried in the ground. Another option would be to install a concrete gutter that would perform the same function.

Even if drainage is done, it is worth taking care to create a blind area that will prevent precipitation from saturating the soil near the building itself. Moreover, the arrangement of such a structure does not have any special technological difficulties, so making it with your own hands is quite possible.

We make a blind area with our own hands

To make high-quality concrete protection of a foundation structure from excessive surface moisture, you will need the following materials and a set of tools:

• components for preparing concrete (small crushed stone, sand, portlad cement);

• gravel (large crushed stone);

• board for making formwork;

• large metal or polymer mesh for reinforcement;

• concrete mixer;

• rule;

• Master OK;

• plaster float;

• tools for excavation work.

Work steps are performed in this order.

1. Dig a trench and select soil around the perimeter of the building (width about 80 cm, depth about 20-25 cm).

1. Cover the bottom of the trench with coarse crushed stone in a layer of 10-15 cm, pour sand on top so that its top is slightly below the soil level.

1. Moisten the bedding generously with water and install the vertical formwork. Lay mesh for reinforcement.

1. Prepare concrete in a ratio of 4:2:1, where, respectively, fine crushed stone (screenings), sand and M-400 cement. The consistency of the solution is semi-liquid.

1. Pour concrete between the house and the formwork and level it in two perpendicular directions.

1. When the concrete has set a little, rub the surface with a plaster float.

Important. If the blind area is done in the summer season, you need to protect the concrete from drying out quickly. To do this, the concrete structure (after the solution has set) must be covered with dark plastic film or some kind of dense fabric. When covering with a cloth, it is advisable to wet it daily. If these conditions are met, the concrete will gain maximum strength, which will greatly increase the durability of the blind area.

We solve problems with waterproofing a long-built house

Previously, the choice of materials for creating hydraulic barriers in construction was not so great. To be more precise, there was no choice at all. There was roofing felt, that is, cardboard impregnated with petroleum products. So it was used to create a hydrophobic gasket between the wall and the base. The service life of roofing felt is not that long, even when it is tightly sandwiched between two surfaces. That is why in buildings that were erected 50 or more years ago, bridges appear where the waterproofing has ceased to be there, through which moisture from the base passes to the bottom of the wall.

What can be done in such a situation? Raising the building to lay a fresh waterproofing layer is unlikely to be possible. There is only one way out - to protect the foundation along with the base from moisture from the outside, where it comes from in most cases. Insulating the base of the base is, firstly, problematic, and secondly, there is not much point, since groundwater rarely reaches this level (we are talking about a shallow foundation), the problem here is excess moisture of atmospheric origin.

Now let's talk about how to get out of this situation. Foundations that were made a long time ago were in most cases poured using natural stone, so the outer surface is unlikely to be smooth and uniform. Therefore, here it is better to use not those materials that are intended specifically for moisture protection, but somewhat different ones. It is best to use hydrophobic polystyrene derivatives (foam or extruded polystyrene foam). If you prefer polystyrene foam (it is cheaper), you need to purchase it with a density of at least 35 kg/m2.

Protecting the foundation of the house from moisture with polystyrene foam

In addition to the mentioned sheet polymer (thickness can be used within 30-50 mm), the following materials are useful:

• special mounting foam for gluing polymer boards;

• dowels with a mushroom cap.

The tools needed are:

• gun for working with foam;

• hammer drill with 10 mm drill and hammer;

• a construction knife or hacksaw with medium teeth and a slight spread;

• roulette;

• level (spirit level);

• tools for excavation work.

Sequence of work

Experienced people think of houses with a ground floor, in which all communications, distribution units and manifolds can be placed, a storage room, a drying room can be made (many housewives dream of this). And this is where the fun begins. As you understand, the basis of the house is the foundation and waterproofing the foundation is simply necessary.

And in order for the basement to be cozy, comfortable and have an optimal microclimate, you should waterproof the foundation yourself. And this applies not only to houses with a zero base, but also to buildings erected on pile and strip foundations.

The service life of the entire housing depends on proper waterproofing of the base. In this article we will talk to you about how to properly waterproof a foundation.

The impact of moisture on the foundation

Many may say that this is all nonsense, because concrete only gains strength and becomes stronger from water. And it can gain and maintain this strength for many years. But not everything is so rosy; moisture has a negative impact on the entire foundation.

What effect does water have on the foundation of a house?

Now you understand the effect moisture has on a concrete foundation. It affects the condition of all components and structural elements.

Materials for foundation waterproofing

It should be said right away that there are two ways to protect the foundation from moisture.

The first is the use of waterproofing materials to protect the foundation walls, we will talk about this below.

The second is the use of special grades of concrete (pavement concrete).

This option is used much less frequently for a number of reasons:

• The cost of concrete increases by 30-50%.
• Not every manufacturer is capable of producing these brands of solutions.
• This type of concrete solution cannot be transported far, as it sets quickly.

Mix vigorously with a wooden stick and our material is ready for use. The disadvantage of using such a material is its service life is about 5 years, after which the bitumen surface will begin to crack.

We clean the surface from dirt and dust and prime it. After drying, apply the composition to the wall using a brush. And we repeat this 2-3 times. The corners should be reinforced with a reinforcing element (fiberglass).

1. Sprayed materials. This is “liquid rubber”, it creates a seamless single layer on the surface of the foundation if you use a bitumen-latex emulsion and a special spray device.

If you plan to apply the material manually, then elastomix and elastopaz are used for this - these are one-component “liquid rubber” compositions. Approximate consumption per 1 sq. m. – 350 gr.

Elastopaz is sold in 18 kg buckets, applied in two layers, and dries within 24 hours. After use, leftovers can be stored in a bucket.

Elastomix is ​​sold in 10 kg buckets and includes an adsorbent that acts as an activator. This activator accelerates the hardening process and within two hours the composition will turn into rubber. Apply in one layer, dries in 2 hours. Leftovers cannot be stored.

The disadvantage of using “liquid rubber” is that the surface treated with this material must be protected from stones and construction debris when backfilling the foundation. To do this, it should be covered with geotextiles or a pressure wall should be erected.

We clean the wall from dust and dirt. We prime the surface. After the primer has dried, apply the composition using a sprayer (preferred) or using a brush and roller.

1. Plaster materials. It is applied like ordinary plaster using a spatula and is used to level and seal the seams of a vertical foundation wall. Experts recommend using plaster mesh for greater strength. Moisture resistance can be provided by components (asphalt mastics, polymer concrete or hydraulic concrete) that are part of the mixture.

The advantage of this technology is ease of application, but the disadvantage is its short service life. Typically, plaster is used to level and prepare the surface before applying bitumen or roll waterproofing.

The most famous materials are hydrotex, Penetron and Aquatron-6. For better adhesion, they should be applied to a wet concrete base. Apply in several layers.

This method has become widespread as a repair. That is, when during operation it is necessary to eliminate leaks in the foundation. A very expensive foundation waterproofing technology.

1. Roll materials. The most common is paper-based roofing felt. But modern waterproofing in rolls is a modified polymer material applied to a base made of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass. Modern adhesive waterproofing is more expensive, but is of higher quality and durable. Commonly used modern roll materials include: Rubitex, Gidrostekloizol, Technoelast, TechnoNIKOL and others.

The material can be applied in two ways, gluing and fusing. Various bitumen mastics are used as glue. And the melting of the material occurs due to heating with a burner (gas or gasoline).

It is recommended to apply two layers. The advantages include quality and long service life. The disadvantages are that the process is long and cannot be done without assistants.

Recently it has appeared on the building materials market. Self-adhesive roll waterproofing material.

We clean the surface from dirt and dust. Apply a layer of bitumen mastic. Here you should not apply it carefully, since the mastic is a binding element when melting the roofing material.

Then the roofing material is heated using a burner and applied to a layer of hot bitumen mastic. The sheets are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm. If the gluing method is used, the surface should be treated with a primer before applying mastic.

Types of foundation waterproofing

There are only two types: horizontal and vertical waterproofing.

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation is carried out only during the construction of the building. After construction it is not possible to do it.

It can be used on almost any surface, and most importantly, it does not shrink after application. We clean all the simply obtained grooves from dust and dirt and treat them with a primer.

Prepare the composition according to the instructions. And fill the resulting seams as tightly as possible. As soon as the repair composition has set, it should be moistened generously with water. Then it is treated with a primer.

This repair composition will help restore the protective functions of your foundation, but experts recommend using penetrating compounds in addition.

Conclusion

It should be noted that complete foundation protection is a combination of vertical and horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. What material to use is your choice, the most important thing is to follow the technology.

And most importantly, no insulation will withstand direct exposure to moisture for long, so roof drains, stormwater systems, formwork, and drainage systems should be provided, both on the ground and underground.

The foundation is the most important part of the house, on which the reliability and durability of the building depends. Being an underground element, the foundation is more susceptible than others to the harmful effects of water and moisture. In most cases, the foundation of a house is monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, which is characterized by a porous structure.

Is it necessary to waterproof the foundation and walls? Undoubtedly. Penetrating deep, water destroys metal elements. Experiencing temperature changes and moving from one state of aggregation to another, water changes in volume. This cannot but have a negative impact on the concrete, which deteriorates more and more with each cycle - cracks and voids appear. As a result, the functionality of the foundation is lost.

Therefore, it is very important to ensure complete protection of the underlying structure from moisture penetration. The question is how to waterproof the foundation. There are many factors that influence the quality of a hydraulic barrier - from the nature of the foundation and the type of terrain to the type of insulating material and the readiness of the base to accept it. That's why it's worth using specialized services - only professionals clearly understand how to properly waterproof a foundation. Small mistakes can lead, at a minimum, to the need for frequent repairs to the moisture barrier.

Which waterproofing to choose for the foundation?

The answer depends on the orientation of the base - horizontal or vertical surface, on the budget and the degree of rational approach. Materials for protecting the foundation from moisture are divided into:

• pasting;
• coating;
• penetrating.

Pasted insulation

One of the types of roll insulation. Previously, it was widely used for horizon treatment, creating a waterproofing layer under the foundation. The rolled material is usually roofing felt, which is glued onto a surface treated with hot bitumen. It is recommended to use in combination with penetrating waterproofing, which is discussed in more detail below.

Coating insulation

Represented by a range of materials, divided into:

• bitumen;
• polymer;
• cement-polymer.

Like roll insulation, coating is much better used in conjunction with penetrating insulation.

Penetrating insulation

First, let's talk about the disadvantages of other types. This will help to understand the unconditional advantages of impregnation. Other materials are relatively good for exterior surface treatment. Water pressure presses the insulation against the substrate. The liquid acts on the internal hydraulic protection by tearing off, and this greatly reduces the life of the barrier.

Plus, all materials, except impregnations, are prone to damage. Even small problems are a reason for groundwater to work on the wear and tear of the foundation. Finding damaged areas often requires a lot of work.

How to properly waterproof a foundation if liquid creates so many problems and materials are so easily damaged? We need an indivisible union of concrete and waterproofing. This is how penetrating insulation works - the mixture migrates deep into the concrete structure, filling absolutely all the pores and layers, crystallizing in them and creating a reliable barrier to moisture. The undisputed leader in the impregnation market is the Penetron family of materials.

The best way to waterproof a foundation - Penetron materials

Understanding the essence of impregnations and related materials will tell you how to waterproof a foundation according to the rules.

Penetron is the main material of the complex. It is certainly present as one of the components. Advantages:

• penetrates to a depth of at least 30-40 cm; over time, the depth reaches up to 90 cm;
• easy to use - applied with a brush;
• increases frost resistance at least twice;
• increases the strength of concrete up to 15%;
• protects reinforcement from corrosion;
• resistant to aggressive environments;
• characterized by self-healing of microcracks;
• vapor permeable;
• a huge range of uses (up to nuclear power plants, thermal power plants, etc.);
• environmentally friendly, allowed for contact with drinking water.

Still wondering what kind of waterproofing to choose for your foundation? Penetron is characterized by the highest maintainability. Problems are resolved quickly and locally.

Penecrete: the composition is used to seal joints/seams/junctions/cracks in combination with Penetron. It is characterized by the absence of shrinkage, high strength and water resistance, good adhesion to concrete, stone, brick, and metal.

Peneplug and Waterplug - Hydroseals that quickly eliminate pressure leaks in structures made of concrete, stone and brick. Fast setting time (depending on temperature and material). Characterized by the ability to expand. Used in conjunction with the two previous types.

Penetron Admix - An additive that is used at the concrete preparation stage. Increases the performance of a concrete foundation in terms of strength, water resistance and frost resistance. Can be used in combination with Penebar or Penecrit (after the concrete with the additive has set).

Penebar is a waterproofing strand designed to seal construction and working seams and utility passages. Expanding several times upon contact with water, Penebar creates pressure and becomes an excellent water barrier.

These are not all the materials of the complex, but those described are the main ones. Read on to learn how to properly waterproof a foundation using them.

Foundation waterproofing technology

Preparatory work

It’s not enough to know how to waterproof a foundation. Quality preparation is needed. All surface defects should be identified. Loose concrete and areas with exposed crushed stone and/or reinforcement must be dismantled and plastered with repair mixture Skrepa M500. The reinforcement is pre-cleaned and primed with an anti-corrosion solution. Defects are not always noticeable; they can be hidden by cement laitance. This milk is removed, for example, with the Himfreza composition.

There are a lot of seams in a concrete foundation, especially if it is a block structure. These are the most vulnerable places. The joints are pre-deepened by 20-25 millimeters, cleaned and, after washing, moisturized well. Then we recommend sealing these places with Penecrit.

Cracks and crevices are sealed, again, with Penecrit. The moistened surface is treated with Penetron in two layers. Possible leaks in concrete are eliminated using Waterplug or Peneplug mixtures. Leaking areas are widened by at least 25 mm in width and deepened by 50 mm. It is recommended to expand in depth in the form of a dovetail. In the case of abundant hydrofiltration with a large water influx, it is necessary to use injection resins such as PenePurFom. But this is with the help of special devices and equipment.

Very often, FBS foundations contain brick inserts. What waterproofing should I choose for the foundation in this case? In this situation, it is worth paying attention again to Skrepa M500. It is used to plaster the brick over a metal mesh, simultaneously achieving a significant increase in strength and waterproofing effect. We must not forget about Penecrit, which is used to seal the joints, and in this case along the border of the M500 Scraper and the FBs themselves.

Final treatment with Penetron

At this point, the preparation is complete and you can proceed to the final stage. After the mixtures used have set, the surface to be treated must be cleaned and moistened very well. Finally, prepare the Penetron mixture and apply the solution in two layers - with a break of 4-6 hours, or as soon as the first layer dries. After completion of the work, the foundation is moistened for three days at intervals of several hours. At this stage, we can say that you already understand how to properly waterproof a foundation.

The ready-mixed composition must be used within half an hour, so prepare the amount that can be applied during this time, otherwise the composition will turn into stone!

Owners of country houses try to make the most efficient use of the area allocated for construction. This is explained by the high cost of land in the suburban area, and the desire to reduce the cost of the project, since it is more profitable to build housing in several tiers than to scatter several one-story buildings that have the same usable area. For this reason, in most cases, a basement is made, the external walls of which are the buried foundation of the house, made of reinforced concrete monolith or blocks.

In order for the basement to ultimately have a full-fledged comfortable room with an acceptable microclimate, it should be protected from ground moisture, for which purpose waterproofing the foundation with your own hands is done. You can hire someone for these purposes, but if you can save a little at this stage of construction, why not. From the article you will learn what is the essence of protecting the foundation of a house from moisture, and how to waterproof the foundation efficiently, inexpensively, and with your own hands. To consolidate the information received, you will be offered to watch a video on this topic.

Why is it necessary to waterproof the base of a building?

Why do you need to protect the foundation wall from moisture? Those who build on wetlands will not understand the question. However, in many areas the groundwater is quite deep, and precipitation throughout the year cannot be called abundant. Is it worthwhile to install waterproofing in this case?

It's worth it, and here's why. Firstly, no one can reliably predict how the course of surface ground currents may change in the near future. There is no guarantee that in a year or two, water from below will not approach a completely dry area. What awaits the owner of the building in this option? You need to forget about the basement, or do waterproofing with an already functioning building. And this is very labor-intensive and expensive, and besides, there is no question of doing it yourself.

Secondly, the climate is now very changeable. Where it rained twenty years ago, you won’t get it now, and vice versa. There is no point in expecting that it will always be dry. So it is much more profitable and convenient to protect underground walls at the construction stage, so as not to return to this problem later.

What does the waterproofing work package include?

High-quality protection from moisture of an underground structure involves a set of technological operations aimed at waterproofing all surfaces in contact with the ground. Moreover, it is necessary to provide hydroprotection from water approaching from below, as well as from atmospheric moisture. The full range of waterproofing measures consists of the following technological stages:

• horizontal moisture insulation;

• vertical protection from excess ground moisture;

• arrangement of a drainage system;

• installation of high-quality blind area around the perimeter of the building.

Creating a reliable horizontal water barrier will protect the basement from water coming from below. Sometimes groundwater puts significant pressure on the basement floor, so you need to carefully protect the basement floor and subfloor.

Vertical waterproofing is applied to the external foundation surface and is intended primarily to be a barrier to excess ground moisture that accumulates due to precipitation. When groundwater rises above the base of the building, a vertical hydraulic barrier created using standard technology will be ineffective in this situation. Drainage is required to drain water.

If construction is carried out in a region characterized by heavy rainfall, 50% of the success of vertical moisture protection depends on pouring a reliable blind area that will drain sedimentary water away from the outer foundation surface. So this stage of construction should be given due attention if you want to keep the basement walls dry. Now let's look at the most common and effective technological methods that can be used to carry out work on each of the listed waterproofing measures.

Horizontal moisture protection

You can create a horizontal waterproof cushion, which is the base of the basement floor, before pouring (installing from blocks) the foundation, or after. It is better to do this before, as there will be no need to waterproof the base of the foundation wall. To work you will need the following.

Materials and tools

As a water barrier, you can use a thick continuous polyethylene film, or a rolled waterproofing material, hydroglass insulation, for example. As an auxiliary agent, bitumen or mastic based on it is applied. In addition you will need:

• concrete, or ingredients for its preparation (fine gravel, sand, portladder cement);

• coarse gravel;

• river sand or fine screenings (for bedding);

• reinforcement (6-8 mm) or strong reinforcing mesh for screed.

The following tool should be prepared:

• mechanical or manual tamping;

• concrete mixer;

• gas burner (if hydroglass insulation);

• welding machine or binding wire (if fittings).

Sequence of work

As a result of the work carried out, a horizontal reinforced slab base should be obtained, with an internal moisture-proofing layer protruding approximately half a meter beyond the outer perimeter of the foundation. That is, the installation of the base of the building will take place on a ready-made slab base, protected from water approaching from below.

1. The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted as much as possible;

1. Backfilling is carried out, first with gravel (about 10 cm), then with sand (about 5 cm), after which a rough layer of concrete is poured (up to 10 cm). For greater reliability, the rough slab base can be reinforced;

Important! Before pouring concrete, be sure to thoroughly saturate the backfill with water. If this is not done, the moisture from the cement mortar will quickly go down, causing the strength of the concrete to become minimal. Moreover, leveling the solution that has lost moisture will be very problematic.

1. After the first layer of concrete has set, the film can be laid if it is intended as a water barrier. In the case when it is planned to apply bitumen mastic, in order to glue the rolled material, it is necessary to wait until the concrete dries;

1. The polyethylene sheet is laid in one or two layers, after which a reinforcing frame is mounted and a finishing screed is poured over the entire area of ​​the slab base (preferably along the beacons);

1. Installation of roll waterproofing is done as follows: apply molten bitumen or mastic to the dried base. Application is done with a stiff brush. After the material has set, hydroglass insulation is rolled out completely (roofing material can be used). During installation, the material is heated using a gas burner or blowtorch and glued to the base. The dense layers are overlapped, the joints are heated and immediately pressed with a sliding movement. For this, a device in the form of a poker is used.

Important! Installation of a horizontal moisture-proof base can be done after the construction of the foundation structure. The simply described method makes the whole complex of work, which includes waterproofing the foundation with your own hands, less expensive both in terms of material costs and in terms of the labor intensity of the process.

Vertical moisture protection

This type of work involves applying a water barrier layer on the outside of the foundation wall, which would protect the concrete structure from excess ground moisture. The simplest method for self-installation, yet quite effective, is the application of roll waterproofing materials. There are several other types of products used for similar purposes, but some of them are ineffective (hydrophobic plaster, for example), or very expensive and require knowledge of technology (how to apply), as well as special equipment for this.

To clearly understand the rules of foundation waterproofing, it is recommended to watch the video below, where you can not only see how to apply a water barrier layer, but also hear useful recommendations and descriptions of the nuances of the work from an expert builder. Also in the video, a specialist explains the purpose of the drainage system. We will further figure out how to build drainage for groundwater drainage yourself.

How to make a drainage system?

The installation of drainage communications is usually carried out by specialized teams, although, if you have the necessary information and a strong desire, such work can be done independently at the construction stage. Of course, you will have to hire someone to build a drainage well, but installing the system itself is not so difficult.

Tools and materials

You will need simple tools related to excavation work (shovels, crowbar, perhaps a hammer drill will come in handy somewhere). You can use a water level to determine the slope. The following materials will be needed:

• large crushed stone or gravel;

• special perforated drainage pipe;

• connecting elements for pipes.

Work order

The underground drainage system is installed after the creation of the slab base and the construction of the foundation wall. First you need to determine the natural slope and plan a place for installing a drain well in the lowest place. After work, they are performed in the following sequence:

1. Dig a trench about 25-30 cm (bayonet-wise) along the perimeter of the foundation. The width of the recess is arbitrary, ranging from 50-80 cm.

1. The trench is filled with gravel to a level that is 10 cm below the slab base (or the base of the foundation, if horizontal waterproofing was done after the foundation of the house).

1. A drainage pipe is laid in the center of the trench over the gravel backfill. It is necessary to ensure that the slope is constantly maintained along its course from the highest point to the drainage well.

1. After laying the pipe, another layer of coarse crushed stone is added, which will protect the drainage pipeline from the pressure of the soil layers that will be filled in later.

Now, if groundwater approaches, it will be discharged into the constructed reservoir without reaching the level of the base. Water can be pumped out from the drainage well at any time.

Upper hydraulic protection of the foundation (blind area)

The screed around the building protects the underlying foundation surface from excess moisture during heavy rains or when snow melts. The ideal option is when a clay castle is created under the blind area to the depth of the building’s foundation. However, clay tends to compact for a very long time, which can take 2-3 years. Therefore, now few people want to make a clay belt.

Important! Before pouring the blind area, you should make sure that the soil poured around the base of the building is completely compacted. If this does not happen, the screed around the perimeter of the house will crack and eventually collapse completely.

How to make a blind area

To create a moisture-proof belt, you will need the same tools as for arranging the screed (trowel, usually a plaster float), as well as everything necessary for excavation work. The following materials will be needed.