A modern country house is designed to provide the best living conditions. Currently, all conditions have been created for this - an abundance of design solutions in house construction, a variety of traditional and new proven materials.
One of the elements of private buildings is currently a terrace - a fully or partially open area equipped with a roof. It allows you to fully feel like a part of nature, practically without leaving your home. What materials and in compliance with what requirements can be used to finish the terrace will be discussed further.
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Classic terrace design
Structurally, an extension to a house, called a terrace or veranda, is a podium raised above the ground on one of the types of foundations, and a roof made of some material, supported by several support beams. According to their design, such structures are divided into:
- open;
- partially closed;
- closed.
Open veranda
This view is good when located on the leeward sunny side. Due to the absence of fences, there are practically no boundaries between the veranda and the space surrounding it. It is better if the floor height of such a structure is low. This is especially true when children live in a country house.
Photo: 3D project of a country house with a veranda
Due to the lack of complete isolation from the atmosphere, the operation of structures of the first and second types is possible only in the warm season. It is impossible to properly insulate them due to the design features, and it is quite difficult to completely protect visitors to such a terrace from the wind and raindrops flying inside.
Closed terraces
This type is most suitable for year-round use as an additional room. Even in the winter cold, closed from the wind and frost, you can enjoy hot tea while admiring the beauty of nature. In this case, it is better to combine the interior decoration of the veranda with insulation of all its walls. This will minimize heating costs for the house as a whole.
Veranda finishing options
The manufacturing process of the described structures is not complicated and is quite accessible with your own hands, as is finishing the veranda inside or outside. Since the topic of the article involves a more detailed introduction to the second part of the work, we will consider them, focusing on possible options, their features, advantages and disadvantages.
Currently, the interior of the veranda is covered using the following materials:
- wooden lining;
- plastic panels;
- MDF panels;
- cement plaster and cement-based artificial stone.
Decorating the veranda with wood
The classic option is the use of natural wood materials for finishing walls not only in the interior of the house, but also in extensions. The lining is distinguished by its good appearance, ease of installation and low requirements for the quality of base preparation.
Its installation is carried out on a lathing made of 40x40 mm bars using special fasteners - clamps, which grab the panels by the groove and securely fix them. Finishing parts can be placed vertically, horizontally or at an angle to the floor.
Thematic material:
When finishing the exterior, you can sheathe the veranda only by installing the lining parallel to the soil with the ridges up to prevent the accumulation of water in the grooves.
Plastic finish
Also quite a common option. It is better to decorate a closed veranda with such panels. In this case, temperature changes are less sensitive to the material, which helps to increase its service life.
Unlike wood materials, plastic is practically not afraid of water. Modern retail chains offer many options for both color and texture design of plastic panels.
Installation of plastic trim is easier than wood trim. Thanks to the considerable width of the panels, the process is faster.
It is convenient to fasten the finishing parts to the sheathing using a construction stapler, driving the staples into a wide shelf along the edge of the products. Plastic panels do not require further finishing with paintwork, they can be easily washed with a damp cloth, and dust does not settle on them.
Interior finishing with MDF panels
Another common finishing material for interior work is MDF panels. Like the previous option, they are distinguished by a large working width, which allows for sheathing to be carried out quite quickly. For fastening to wooden sheathing, clamps are used, similar to those used when installing wooden lining.
Thanks to the large number of colors that imitate natural wood, stone and even leather, this interior decoration of the veranda will have a very high quality look. With all its advantages, MDF also has a significant drawback - very low moisture resistance. In this regard, it is better not to use them for finishing open terraces. Otherwise, additional protection will be required in the form of varnishing all sides of the panels.
Decorating veranda walls with cement materials
In the case of using cement-containing building materials - blocks with one or another filling, or bricks - to make a terrace, it is better to finish the walls with mixtures or parts that are similar in composition.
Please note that gypsum-based plaster and gypsum artificial stone are not suitable for covering the walls of open verandas.
Often home owners are stopped by the high cost of cement finishing materials. At the same time, it is not difficult to produce the required amount of original artificial stone yourself in a home workshop. By adding aniline dye, you can get a unique interior in the room being finished.
Polycarbonate for finishing terraces
As already noted, the materials listed above, used in finishing the interior space of verandas, have certain disadvantages that limit their use. In recent years, external walls and roofs of terraces have increasingly been covered with polycarbonate - an artificial transparent material that allows you to create a closed space while maintaining visual contact with the surrounding nature.
There are two main types of this plastic:
- Cellular. It is characterized by minimal weight, high light transmittance, and durability, therefore it is often used for roofing terrace roofs.
- Monolithic. Its properties are close to real quartz glass, but unlike it it does not have such high fragility. This determined its use in vertical frame structures - windows, doors, transparent walls.
Modern manufacturers are not limited to producing colorless sheets. To create a soft shadow, we recommend using green, blue, red, yellow cellular polycarbonate for the roof. You can combine several colors, giving the entire design brightness and uniqueness.
Covering veranda walls with cellular polycarbonate is quite easy to do yourself. To work you will need a minimum set of tools:
- cutting knife - any construction knife will do;
- screwdriver
The polycarbonate installation technology involves the following list of works.
The installation of cellular polycarbonate on the roof of the terrace is carried out in a similar way. If there is a ridge - the junction of two roof slopes, use a special ridge profile, sold in organizations that sell sheets.
In the absence of cutting experience, cutting sheets to the required sizes can also be done by workers at construction bases.
As follows from our review, the amount of materials for covering terraces is sufficient to create a unique structure. Before finishing your veranda with any of them, carefully study all the operating features in a particular case.
Before you begin building an extension of a living room to an individual residential building, you must obtain permission from the department of architecture and urban planning of your city.
Find out more about how it’s done to avoid mistakes when building brick walls yourself.
Insulating the roof from the inside is not very expensive and will save money on heating your home. Read about how to perform insulation and what materials to choose.
To do this, you will need to provide documents for the land plot (lease agreement or certificate of ownership, cadastral passport), documents for the house (certificate of ownership, technical passport), construction and architectural projects (in principle, there can be one project, but in it must necessarily contain sections affecting the construction and architectural part of the extension being built) and, of course, write a corresponding application for permission.
Foundation for extension
After receiving permission, we begin construction. Construction, of course, needs to begin with the construction of a foundation. To do this, along the perimeter of the future extension, we dig a ditch at least half a meter deep; the width of the ditch should be approximately the same.
We fill the bottom of the ditch with sand and gravel. This is necessary in order to increase the density of the connection between the foundation and the soil, as well as to reduce the risk of foundation subsidence.
Then we begin to pour the foundation. The solution for the future foundation is prepared based on the climatic conditions of your region, the characteristics of the soil, the size of the future room and the weight load it places on the foundation (all this should be reflected in the project). In addition, the foundation must be below the freezing level of the soil.
If the foundation is higher than this level, then the moisture accumulated in the soil will swell and expand when freezing, and thereby cause additional uneven loads on it. Such an impact on the foundation will lead to its deformation, as a result of which cracks of various sizes may appear on it and the walls of the future room.
After the foundation is poured, it should be watered abundantly. You need to start watering eight to ten hours after finishing work on its construction. This is necessary to avoid the appearance of cracks on it and its uneven drying. This procedure must be performed for three to four days in a row.
In order not to constantly run with a hose, the foundation can be evenly covered with wet sawdust. The foundation will dry completely after three to four weeks. But this does not mean that you can immediately start building walls. Let it sit for a year. During this time, the foundation will completely subside and “find” its place.
When pouring a foundation, it is better to give preference to the type of its construction that will be similar to the construction of the foundation under the main house. If the foundation under the main house protrudes beyond its boundaries, then the new foundation can be “connected” to it to add strength and avoid additional subsidence.
Walling
The walls of the room can be erected from brick, cinder block, or from rounded logs, or other suitable building material. A block extension to the house is also a viable option, although not the best. Everything here will depend on your preferences and financial capabilities.
But it is better, from an aesthetic point of view, that the material of the walls of the new extension should be similar to the material of the walls of the main house or be combined with it (unless, of course, you are going to decorate the walls of the entire house with modern finishing materials). An example would be a frame extension to a wooden house; it is both easy to do and looks aesthetically pleasing.
The height of the walls (ceiling) of the new extension should be slightly lower than the height of the main building. It should be lower exactly as much as is required for arranging the roof.
When building the walls of a new room, you need to decide on their “connection” with the wall of the main house. In this case, experts do not recommend using a rigid connection. Since the weight and “age” of the main structure exceeds those of the new extension, which in turn affects their uneven subsidence. A rigid connection in this case will lead to the appearance of cracks. And not only at the junction. It is best to use an “elastic layer” in such cases.
The “elastic layer” is installed as follows. The wall of the extension should not be adjacent to the wall of the main building. Between them you need to leave a small distance of two to three centimeters. The remaining space is filled with a special sealant (Vilaterm or polyurethane foam) for expansion joints and gaps.
Making a roof
It was already mentioned above that the height of the extension should be slightly lower than the main house. So, when installing the roof of a new room, you need to ensure that the roof extends under the eaves of the house, forming a smooth transition. The connection between the two roofs should be such as to prevent as much as possible the entry of precipitation into the extension in the form of snow, rain or other moisture.
It is best to make a transition from a galvanized iron corner at the junction of the roofs. We place one part of such a corner thirty to forty centimeters under the roof of the main building and leave the same amount on the roof of the new extension. We carefully seal the resulting space between the roof and the edge of the metal corner.
Beams for the roof of a new room can be made, for example, from wooden beams. We lay the beams themselves on pre-prepared grooves in the wall. To cover the roof of the extension, we choose a similar material for the roof of the main building. We definitely insulate the ceiling. Expanded clay or mineral wool or a similar material can be used as insulation. The ceiling itself can be either wooden or reinforced concrete slab. The same goes for gender.
By the way, to level the floor, it is best to resort to a dry screed. In terms of its qualities, such a screed is no different from others. In addition, it requires less labor and financial costs.
The interior decoration of the new room will depend on its purpose and your design abilities. But before that, do not forget to first install all the necessary engineering networks in the new room, for example, electricity and heat supply.
And in the end, I would like to say that all construction work on the construction of an extension to a residential building must be carried out in strict accordance with the project submitted to the department of architecture and urban planning.
Any deviation from the project will entail certain legal consequences, up to the impossibility of legitimizing the house as a whole. If at the stage of construction of the extension you deviate from the project for any reason, then it is better to immediately inform the department of architecture and urban planning, get their approval and make appropriate changes to the project.
After the addition of a new living room has been erected and accepted by the commission for commissioning buildings and structures, you can safely go to the registration chamber and make appropriate changes to the title documents for the house.
Sometimes it happens that after building a country house, it turns out that its square footage is too small, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, utility room, workshop or barn. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.
How to build an extension to a house at minimal cost, with photos and examples, how to prepare a foundation for it, what material to choose for walls and roof - further in the article.
general information
If water supply and sewerage are planned for the extension, as in the case of building a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be addressed before pouring the foundation.
If you plan to use the extension not only in the summer, then you should consider insulating the floor, for example, using expanded clay bedding. It is also useful to think about how to heat the room if you are living in winter.
As an easy extension option, you can equip a veranda - it provides protection from wind and bad weather. It is not possible to live on the veranda in winter, since, as a rule, it is not heated.
The extension must be in harmony with the main building. An economical, warm and quickly erected version of the structure is a wooden frame; after construction, it can be easily finished as the main building. It has many advantages:
- simplicity and speed of construction;
- relative cheapness;
- environmental cleanliness of the extension;
- there is no need to build a capital foundation.
Construction of the foundation
For a veranda or residential extension of a frame type, a columnar foundation is suitable, since the weight of the structure is small. If there is a need to provide communications, as is the case with a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. This will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are significantly less than if it were necessary to equip a strip foundation. The floors in such an extension are made of boards so as not to weigh down the structure.
Concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured measuring 50x50 cm at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the holes for the posts is covered with a layer of sand, then with crushed stone, and all this is thoroughly compacted.
The pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. The formwork is removed about a week after pouring, when the concrete gains strength. As waterproofing, bitumen or roofing felt is glued to the pillars.
Bottom trim and floors
In order for the frame extension to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic and fungicidal composition. Bitumen mastic provides high-quality waterproofing.
A 150x150 mm beam, preferably made of larch, is used as the bottom trim. Roofing material must be placed under it to isolate it from the foundation. Lay the first row strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.
The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, using pins, the first and second rows are connected. You can use 50x150 mm boards instead of timber, and in order to achieve structural integrity, they are connected with self-tapping screws.
The lower harness is attached to the beds on which the logs are laid. Insulation, such as polystyrene, is placed between the joists and subfloors are laid. Finish floors are laid from moisture-resistant plywood.
Walls
Walls are made in two ways - either the structure is assembled on the ground and then erected, or the frame is gradually assembled on site. The first option requires several people, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.
The construction process begins with corner posts; it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, timber with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.
Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional posts and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper harness of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out with OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.
Roof and insulation of the extension
The easiest way to equip a roof is with a regular pitched roof. It should be made as a continuation of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is on the side. The roof of the extension must extend under the main roof.
All elements - rafters, beams, sheathing must be treated with an antiseptic. The roof is laid with an overlap and, depending on its type, is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or slate nails.
Polystyrene foam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydrobarrier, then insulating material is placed between the frame posts, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they attach OSB or plasterboard to the racks, and begin finishing.
Photos of extensions to the house
Often, when drawing up a house project, developers are so carried away by architectural aesthetics that they miss another important point - the practicality of its operation. Therefore, in many cases, unaccounted construction nuances have to be corrected after the house is built.
This problem also includes the lack of usable space, which can be eliminated by building an additional building adjacent to the wooden house.
Preparation for construction work
Of course, as in any other matter, the construction work itself is preceded by preparatory activities, during which all the nuances of the upcoming work are considered. As for the construction of a building adjacent to a wooden house, the important factors that determine the entire construction process are the following:
- it is necessary to decide on the location of the building and prepare its design;
- choose material for construction;
- make an estimate;
- choose the type of foundation and how to connect it to the main one;
- consider ways to connect the building with the main building and the placement of communications.
When choosing a foundation, ideally, preference is given to the type that was laid during the construction of the main building. But the construction of a monolithic and strip foundation will also guarantee the durability of the building. For lightweight structures, the columnar option is also suitable, but this is only if there is hard soil at the construction site, which is not so common. In the presence of groundwater close to the surface and sandy soil, monolithic and strip foundations will be optimal.
An important component of construction work is the moment of connecting two foundations. In most cases, the process is carried out by hammering pipes and fittings into the old structure and then installing them in the new one. In this way, simultaneous shrinkage of the house and the extension is achieved, as well as reliable installation of the new building connected to the house.
An important point before construction is to determine the location of the connection of the new extension with the main house. The best simple option would be to create a doorway at the location of the window of the main building.
Therefore, even at the planning stage, based on these considerations, you can choose the location of the future extension.
This connection method will not require dismantling the entire wall of the house to combine it with an additional building, and will thereby prevent large expenditures of time and money.
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DIY house extension: frame technology
If, if it is necessary to erect a building adjacent to a wooden house, the budget is limited, then affordable and simple frame construction technology is used. This technology has two advantages - in addition to low cost, it also achieves high speed of work, which allows you to build an extension to a wooden house in the shortest possible time.
Frame construction involves the construction of a structure from beams or planed timber. After the frame is erected, it is covered with pressed wood. Subsequently, the tree is filled with various insulation materials, and a full range of thermal and waterproofing is performed. All of the above measures allow you to create a comfortable and cozy extension to a wooden house.
Frame technology is in many ways similar to assembling a construction set; its simplicity and low labor intensity allow you to implement the technology yourself, which is an undeniable advantage of this method.
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Option for building an extension to a wooden house
To build an extension to a wooden house, there is no need to construct a massive foundation. In this case, you can get by with the construction of a strip with a depth of up to 40-50 cm and a width of up to 25-30 cm. In the proposed version of the extension, the length and width parameters are reduced to dimensions of 8x3 m. Based on this, the length of the foundation will accordingly be equal to 14 meters.
To work you will need:
- cement mortar;
- fittings;
- level;
- beam;
- circular or regular chainsaw;
- nails;
- self-tapping screws;
- reinforced staples.
So, the work begins with digging a trench along the width of the foundation. The depth of the trench should be 2/3 of the entire height of the foundation, and 1/3 of the remaining part should protrude above the ground. Next, the ground part of the foundation is poured. For this purpose, formwork is made from boards. After pouring the cement mortar and its hardening, the formwork is removed. To prepare a cement mixture (at the rate of 0.8 bags per 1 m2), 11 bags of cement (grade M400) are needed; the solution is prepared by mixing cement with sand in a ratio of 1 part/2.5 parts, respectively, and adding water until the consistency of thin sour cream. Before pouring the foundation, to increase its strength and durability, old reinforcing wire, fragments of bricks, bottle glass, etc. are poured into the trench.
Ultimately, in order to achieve a perfectly flat surface, it is mandatory to carry out control measurements of the surface of the extension’s foundation using a horizontal level.
To create the floor, 100x150 mm timber is used. Logs made of timber in the amount of 6 pieces are laid at a distance of 1.3 m from each other, two of which must be mounted in the end parts of the extension, and the remaining 4 are placed between them. To ensure the stability of the logs, special “pedestals” are used - made from cinder blocks, scraps of timber or support bricks. “Pedestals” are installed on the ground evenly under each joist in its two places, and the formation of gaps under them is not allowed. When installing joists, as when pouring a foundation, control measurements are taken using a horizontal level to determine the evenness of the floor surface.
Transverse logs are mounted using grooves and nails 120 mm to the longitudinal part of the foundation of the building. A circular or regular chainsaw is used to create grooves.
Boards of 100x30 mm are laid on the transverse joists; boards of greater width can be used - they will be more stable and their service life will be much longer. The boards are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws at 90 cm.
To make the frame, 100x100 mm beams are mounted in the corners of the future structure. Where the extension adjoins the house, the timber is installed much more tightly. Next, in two places a screed is made with the house using reinforced brackets, while the surface is checked with a vertical level, and the remaining corner beams in the amount of 2 pieces are fastened with brackets to the longitudinal joist. It is worth noting that the corner beams act as the main frame of the extension to a wooden house, so it is very important when installing them using a level to ensure that they are perfectly level.
Another beam is installed in the central part of the front wall so that the distance to the outer corner beams is 4 meters.
At the next stage, additional vertical and horizontal beams of 100x50 mm are installed between the main ones, while maintaining a distance that between horizontal boards should not exceed 610 mm, and between vertical boards - 1230 mm. An exception to these parameters will be the sections between horizontal boards near door and window openings. A vertical beam is attached to the lower and upper lags using 120 mm nails, and the horizontal beam is fixed at an angle of 90 degrees to the vertical using 90 mm nails.
Ultimately, the stability of the structure is ensured by laying diagonal beams at the outer corners. This solution will prevent the corners from becoming loose over time.
Thus, the wooden extension to the wooden house is ready. Having carefully studied the sequence of work and prepared the necessary materials and tools, you can begin construction work yourself. Good luck and patience!
A good extension to a wooden house can not only increase its usable area, but also emphasize style and originality.
Wooden houses continue to be popular even now. Wood can compete with the most modern building materials without being inferior to them.
We will build
Sometimes, over time, a house needs to be expanded. Some people do not have enough living space or, due to the addition to the family, they need another bedroom, children’s room or bathroom, some want an open summer veranda with a transparent roof, and others need access to the garage directly from the living room.
Everyone’s desires are different, but all of them can be equally easily realized. An extension to a room, veranda or garage is done in almost the same way - it is not difficult to build it with your own hands.
Despite the fact that the house itself is wooden, construction can be carried out with any material. Whatever material is chosen for the construction of the extension, the work begins with the project.
The project is needed to take into account all the nuances on paper and avoid mistakes in the work.
It is necessary to sketch a plan to scale and calculate the consumption of materials. You can make several options and then choose the best one.
When drawing up a project, all building codes and regulations must be observed, since finished projects must be approved by the BTI and the housing sector.
If it is impossible to draw up a project and draw a plan yourself, then you can turn to specialists for help.
Once the project has been drawn up and approved, construction can begin. The law does not currently prohibit starting construction even before the project has been approved, however, if errors or violations of building codes are found in the project, the owner may be required to demolish the unauthorized building.
When adding non-permanent structures - an open veranda, a terrace - the project will not need to be coordinated; this only applies to permanent structures.
Finally, the paperwork is done and the project is signed. The first step is to inspect the wall to which the building will adjoin and the adjacent part of the foundation.
If something needs to be strengthened or patched up, then this must be done before the main construction begins.
If you plan to add a full-fledged room, then the finishing and plaster from the wall must be removed.
In the case of adding a garage or terrace, this can also be done, but not necessary. When the extension is provided with an entrance from the house, it must also be cut through before construction begins.
This must be done correctly so as not to damage the strength of the wall or weaken it.
The basis of the future is, of course, the foundation. The quality and durability of the structure depends on it.
Laying the foundation for an extension occurs in the same way as laying the foundation for a separate building.
But there is one subtlety here: it is important to correctly attach the new foundation to the foundation of the old house.
Both parts must be a single monolithic structure. If this cannot be achieved, then the difference in the foundation will cause cracks along the walls, and in a few years the extension may collapse.
Therefore, when starting construction, it is very important to pay due attention to the foundation connection.
To do this, you need to completely free the foundation from finishing and dig it to its full depth.
After this, it is necessary to drill holes in the foundation with a diameter of at least 10 centimeters and a depth of about half a meter.
These holes should be located at a distance of 40 - 50 centimeters from each other. In addition to these connecting holes, it is necessary to drill holes for the reinforcement.
The reinforcing wire inserted into them must be welded to the frame of the future foundation. Before pouring concrete, the foundation of an old house is thoroughly wetted with water - this will ensure the best bonding quality.
After the solution has dried and the fences have been removed, the new foundation will be tightly tied to the old one. On it you can create any desired extension with your own hands.
What material can the extension be made from?
Without a doubt, wood goes best with wood. But, despite the fact that the house is wooden, an extension to it can be made with your own hands from any material, and not just from wooden beams.
There is only one detail that needs to be given due attention when building with your own hands - the extension must have a permanent connection with the old house.
This single requirement can be met using any material. Some materials will be easier to work with, while others will be a little more difficult. Here you need to choose what will be more convenient to work with.
The following options may be considered:
- construction made of wooden beams;
- brickwork;
- frame extension;
- construction from foam blocks;
- aerated concrete and other materials.
The easiest way to build a veranda, terrace, or summer kitchen is to use a frame structure.
The frame extension is erected a little faster than other projects, but is practically not inferior in quality to them.
The extension frame itself can be assembled from either wood or metal. Reliably connecting it to the old building seems to be the simplest.
The frame beams are connected to the load-bearing wall of the house using bolts or long screws. The parts of the metal frame are welded together. If the frame is wooden, then it is fastened with self-tapping screws.
After assembling the frame, it is insulated with glass wool, foam plastic or penoplex. The insulation can be placed in several layers, as it must fill the entire area of the frame. The joints can be fastened using construction tape or other means.
After insulation, the frame building is sheathed with any selected material. Outside, it is good to use siding, lining or other finishing materials.
Typically, the same materials that were used in the main construction are used to finish the extension.
However, when building a veranda on a frame basis, the materials may be different to emphasize the individuality of the structure.
Inside, plasterboard, plywood or other options are used for cladding.
The roof of the veranda can be made of translucent polycarbonate roofing, but if the room is permanent, then the new roof should be connected to the old one.
The roof can be either gable or single-pitch, the main thing is that the connection is reliably sealed.
The roof is covered with metal tiles, slate or any other type of roofing material, except, perhaps, corrugated sheeting. Corrugated sheeting is a rather cold material and practically does not insulate sounds.
Photo: 
The connection of buildings made of wooden beams is made using a channel. The size of the channel must be selected based on the size of the timber used - so that it fits into the channel quite tightly.
First, the channels are secured to the walls of the house with bolts, and only then a new beam is attached to them.
You can use self-tapping screws for this. To protect against rust, metal channels are primed. The joints between timber and metal are sealed using polyurethane-based sealant.
Adding a veranda made of wooden beams with your own hands is a fairly reliable structure. If the insulation of timber walls is carried out correctly, the room can be used all year round.
A little about blocks and bricks
If construction is carried out from brick, foam blocks or aerated concrete, then the connection can be made with steel reinforcement. Metal rods must be cut into pieces of at least a meter in advance.
After laying out a row of blocks, the reinforcement is driven into the logs of the old house so that its free half falls strictly into the seam between the rows of material.
After the construction of the walls is completed, the gap between the old and new walls must be properly sealed.
A brick extension to a wooden house is strong and durable. Load-bearing walls must be laid with at least three bricks. In the case of adding a veranda, the walls can be laid with one and a half bricks.
Since brick is colder than wood, such an extension must be properly insulated.
To insulate an extension with your own hands, you can use the following materials:
- Styrofoam;
- polystyrene;
- glass wool
If the extension is made of foam blocks or aerated concrete, then they do not need additional insulation.
Buildings made of aerated concrete, foam blocks and other blocks based on foamed concrete are themselves quite warm due to the air contained in the pores of the material.
A significant disadvantage of such blocks is that they all absorb water to a greater or lesser extent. Therefore, it is not worth saving on external waterproofing of a building made of foam blocks.
Which blocks are best to make an extension from? If we compare between aerated concrete and foam blocks, then although they look similar, they have different qualities.
Photo: 
Aerated concrete blocks are much stronger than foam blocks and practically do not shrink. A structure made of foam blocks can shrink up to three millimeters per meter.
However, the absorption capacity of aerated concrete is much higher than that of foam blocks, so due attention should be paid to their waterproofing.
On the other hand, a building made of foam blocks or any other concrete blocks also needs to be waterproofed, so the question remains open.
Everyone has the right to decide for themselves. Foam blocks are somewhat cheaper than aerated concrete blocks, which can play a decisive role in the choice of material.
