The engines have a mixed (pressure and splash) lubrication system.
Under pressure, oil is supplied to the main and connecting rod bearings of the crankshaft, and to the camshaft bearings.
Oil is supplied to the rocker arm bushings with pulsating pressure through the hollow axles of the rocker arms, into which it enters through channels coming from the second and fourth camshaft bearings. Oil is supplied to the rest of the engine parts by gravity and splashing.
To cool the oil, the engines are equipped with an oil cooler installed in front of the cooling system radiator.
The pressure drop in the lubrication system is mainly caused by wear of the oil pump parts or the crankshaft and camshaft bearings.
With significant wear, the oil pump begins to operate noisily. To identify pump faults, it must be removed from the engine and disassembled.
But you should start disassembling the pump only after checking the condition of the pressure relief valve, since it may cause abnormal pressure in the oil system (a weakened spring, a stuck plunger, etc.).
To make sure that the pressure reducing valve is working properly, you need to unscrew its plug, remove the spring and make sure that the plunger moves in its seat freely, without jamming, and that the spring is in normal condition.
The free length of the spring should be 50 mm. The force of the valve spring when compressed by 10 mm should be equal to 4.6 kg. When the force weakens, the spring is replaced with a new one, since placing washers under it or stretching it to increase the force is strictly prohibited.
Disassembling the oil pump
1. Remove the pump together with the gasket from the cylinder block.
2. Remove the lower section housing with the driven gear and gasket.
3. Remove the oil pump lower drive gear and gear key from the pump shaft.
4. Remove the oil pump baffle with gasket.
5. Remove the driven gear of the upper section of the pump from the housing.
6. Remove the shaft with the drive gear of the upper section from the pump housing.
7. After disassembling the pump, thoroughly rinse, dry and inspect all its parts.
8. If wear from the gear is found on the oil pump partition, grind it until traces of wear are eliminated. If there is significant wear on the section housings, replace the pump with a new one.
When making repairs, keep the following in mind.
The distance from the end of the roller with a hexagonal hole to the upper end of the drive gear of the upper section of the pump should be 40 ± 0.15 mm.
A hole with a diameter of 4 mm for the gear mounting pin on the pump shaft is drilled to a depth of 23 ± 0.5 mm at a distance of 15 mm from the end of the gear. Elevation of the pin above the plane of the tooth cavity is not allowed.
The lubrication system, and in particular the oil pump of a GAZ 53 or any other car, plays a vital role in the normal operation of the internal combustion engine. Without lubrication, it will only work for a few minutes before it seizes or, worse, destroys its parts. Remember, the oil pressure sensor in the system will always signal to the driver that something is wrong with the lubrication system.
Appearance of GAZ-53
In order to take timely measures to repair or maintain a truck, it is advisable to have some knowledge of its technical characteristics, features, operating rules and car repair skills.
This is what the oil pump looks like on a GAZ-53
It is important to remember that GAZ 53 trucks are prohibited from operating when the oil level in the engine crankcase is below the “0” mark (as measured by the dipstick) or when there is no oil at all. The driver must constantly maintain the oil level in the range from “0” to “P”, preferably closer to the last mark.
To ensure the accuracy of the indicators, you should not measure them on a cold engine; let it run for 4-5 minutes in idle mode, and then check the oil level after 10 minutes.
Watch the video: technical analysis of the GAZ-53.
It is important to remember that at a speed of 60 km/h and in direct gear, the engine oil pressure sensor should show 2.5 kgf/cm², that is, 250 kPa. On a cold, not warmed-up engine, this figure is approximately 5-5.5 kgf/cm² (500-550 kPa). The minimum permissible pressure is considered to be 0.4-0.8 kgf/cm², at such values the emergency lamp lights up.
Components of the oil pump for GAZ-53
You also need to remember that short-term lighting of the warning lamp at low engine speeds (idling) is acceptable. If the oil pump is working properly, the lamp will go out when the crankshaft speed increases. If the lamp lights up at medium and high speeds, then you have serious problems with the engine and its operation should be stopped.
Appearance of the GAZ-53 engine
There are several ways to determine whether problems in the lubrication system are caused by the pump or other elements.
Replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 53 is considered a fairly simple procedure. The car owner can do it himself if he has basic technical skills and some tools. Taking into account the specifics of the cleaning system, the filter element must be changed every time along with an oil change.
When to replace the oil filter and how to choose it
A pressing issue in replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 53 is the frequency of the procedure. In this aspect, they are guided by a total figure of 15 thousand kilometers. If operating conditions are interpreted as severe, this period is reduced to 10 thousand km.
The filter in a car engine is changed along with the oil, so the main indicator indicating the need for replacement is the condition of the lubricant. Discoloration, the appearance of impurities and sediment, a burning smell - all this indicates that the lubricant has expired.
Some car owners also identify other signs: extraneous noise in the engine, vibrations, jolts, malfunctions. However, experts do not recommend waiting for these factors to appear - usually they already indicate the consequences of untimely oil and filter changes.
To avoid costly repairs of engine components, preventive replacement of the oil filter and lubricant is recommended every year. The importance of regular preventative checks is also emphasized.
The main emphasis is on measuring the oil level, especially after a recent replacement. The current level in a normal and heated state should not go beyond the marks indicated on the dipstick.
Preparation for replacement and necessary tools
Preparatory process Replacing the oil filter in GAZ 53 is conventionally divided into three main aspects:
- purchase of new components and consumables;
- choosing a level place to work;
- warming up the engine.
When it comes to purchases, they highlight not only new oil and filter, but also related parts. To do this, the entire system is checked for wear and replacement of faulty connections is purchased.
Particular attention is paid to gaskets, seals, and fasteners. It is recommended to purchase such parts only from official suppliers. When purchasing, pay attention to the original article numbers and recommendations of the manufacturer.
To drain and fill the lubricant, the car owner will need to park the car on level ground. If possible, use a repair pit or overpass to work with the oil filter. In the absence of them, you will need a powerful jack and supports.
Warming up the engine is necessary for better circulation of the lubricant. However, taking this factor into account, pay attention to safety precautions. To prevent thermal and chemical burns, it is recommended to use protective clothing and rubber gloves.
In the context of such regulations, to replace the oil filter on a GAZ 53 you will need the following equipment:
- a set of screwdrivers and keys, gates with attachments, feeler gauge, pliers;
- overalls and gloves, clean rags or lint-free rags;
- container for collecting used lubricating fluid;
- new oil, funnel for filling;
- new oil filter, gaskets, parts and other components to replace faulty connections.
The procedure for replacing the filter element is not considered difficult; it takes 30-40 minutes, taking into account draining the oil and warming up the engine. However, the driver is required to have certain experience and knowledge of the system; if necessary, it is recommended to read the technical documentation.
Oil filter replacement process
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 53:
- after the engine has warmed up, uncork the filler neck in the engine compartment of the car;
- at the bottom of the machine, remove the engine protection, if any;
- Place a container for used lubricant under the drain and carefully unscrew the plug;
- While the liquid is draining, check the condition of the plug; it is recommended to change the washer in any case;
- after draining, move the container under the filter, unscrew it by hand, if that doesn’t work, use a special tool;
- carefully disassemble the oil filter, it is recommended to remember the order in which the parts and cartridge are removed;
- all components and the casing are cleaned of lubricant residues, a new filter element is installed, the rubber seals are changed and lubricated;
- Next, the filter is assembled in the reverse order and screwed into place; during installation, pay attention to the rubber bands - they should not come out of the grooves intended for them;
- the system is restored to its original form by plugging the drain and checking the tightness of the connections;
- new oil is poured into the filler neck in a volume equivalent to the drained amount of used lubricant;
- The engine is warmed up for 10-15 minutes until the lubricating fluid fills all the mechanisms involved.
After warming up, check the oil level, as well as the entire system for loose connections and leaks. It is recommended to carry out a similar check after the first days of using the car.
Also during this period, the condition of the lubricant is monitored. If it quickly changes color or sediment appears, there is a problem with the quality of the product or the internal state of the mechanisms. If possible, undergo additional diagnostics by specialists; in the future, it may require not only replacing the oil filter, but also a full repair.
Differences in replacing the oil filter in other GAZ models
For some car owners, the issue of replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 66 and other models of this car brand becomes relevant. Experts emphasize that the general procedure remains the same for all machines.
Taking this factor into account, replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 3307 is carried out according to the same algorithm as in the GAZ 53. The main differences are associated with the assembly of the car and the location of the components. However, since these aspects may vary within the same model range, the emphasis is on familiarity with the technical documentation and the experience of the car owner.
Also among the nuances of the general procedure are consumable articles. Despite the interchangeability of some components, it is recommended to check the technical parameters of the parts before purchasing.
In this article I decided to write about the repair of the GAZ 53 pump. This is not entirely a deviation from the main direction on the site, since these repair kits are also suitable for repairing the pump on the UAZ. And in general the procedure itself is similar.
There are several symptoms that the gas 53 pump needs repair:
- coolant leak;
- strong shaft play in bearings;
- boiling of the coolant after a short period of engine operation.
If the first two points are less clear, then I’ll explain a little about the last one. The GAZ 53 impeller is now mainly made of plastic or textolite and, unlike cast iron, has less strength. The bushing becomes loose, or even the blades break. And this happens after the bearings become loose and the gas 53 pump impeller begins to cling to the housing. An impeller with broken petals does not move liquid well, which leads to its rapid boiling.
Instruments
In this case, you will need tools not only to disassemble the pump itself, but also to remove it.
- key for 12 - 13;
- key for 17 - 19;
- hammer;
- pliers.
Gas pump repair 53
After the pump is removed, repair the water pump gas 53 in order to remove the impeller. If it is made of plastic or PCB, it is better to break it. In this case, I didn’t rack my brain, I was going to install a new one and just broke it. I had a cast iron impeller for the pump.
The bushing from the impeller remains on the shaft
For those who are simply going to change the bearings and the impeller of the Gas 53 pump is needed intact, then the question of removing it without damaging it is very difficult. If the pump has not been disassembled for a long time, then we can say in advance that it has become stuck to the shaft and it is better to prepare by purchasing an impeller in advance.
Then he heated the shaft with the remains of the impeller with a burner and poured water on it. Don't worry about bearings, you still need to install new ones. The procedure had to be repeated twice.
Remove the retaining ring from the pump housing and knock out the remaining shaft with bearings towards the fan. The front bearing of the water pump 20803-KU (part number 20803) will be knocked out along with the shaft, but the water pump bearing (rear) 20703-KU (part number 14-1307082-20) will remain and will have to be knocked out separately.
The bearings are closed on one side and must be installed with the closed side facing out. That is, it is clear that the open part will be inside for access to lubricant from the grease nipple.
Most often it is the front bearing that fails.
In advance, clean the housing of the gas 53 water pump from gasket residues and, if possible, sand it with an emery disc. Clean the bearing seats and retaining ring.
We begin the assembly by installing the shaft with bearings, a pulley with a nut, a repair kit and the impeller of the gas 53 water pump.
Be more careful when assembling the repair kit (cuffs, springs, seals, etc.). After assembly, do not forget to syringe the pump through a grease nipple, otherwise you will forget to do this and the bearings will not work for a long time.
