Do-it-yourself 6x6 frame house step by step. How to inexpensively build a frame house with your own hands, photo report. Advantages of frame houses

Prefabricated houses are attractive because once the foundation is ready, the house itself can be erected very quickly. For example, building a frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly occurs step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to correctly assemble each unit. Having instructions and understanding the principle of construction, anyone can assemble a frame house on their own.

Frame construction is no less attractive because it can be done at minimal cost. How much money will be required for construction depends on the size of the house and the materials used (type and grade of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put it there. Despite the fact that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

One more thing. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is yes, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. There are also possible wintering options in the following form:

• foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection;
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.

It is dangerous to leave windows and doors unattended over the winter. In other options, delaying the completion of construction is even a good idea: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, there is low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already assembled part.

After pouring the piles, a grillage is installed, and the reinforcement is laid and tied into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement outlets from the piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and (insert sections of plastic pipes across the tape).

The strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation strip. To install it, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner, 30 cm are retreated in both directions. Here, studs are required, the rest depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Please note that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. That’s why it’s better to deliver more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there must be at least two studs.

When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.

After pouring the concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gains strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (look at the photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation remains within +20°C, construction can continue after about 3-5 days. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with it freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at +17°C you need to wait about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from the concrete, a cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The safest way to do this is with bitumen mastic. And it’s better - in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. Roofing felt is cheaper, but it breaks over time. Waterproofing or other similar modern material is more reliable.

You can coat the grillage once with mastic, and roll out waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing coated with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

The first layer is liquid waterproofing. While it is not dry, you can glue a layer of rolled waterproofing on it.

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and fire-retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is placed so as to cover the joint of the first row. It turns out to be a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, you can lay one beam of 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a greater load-bearing capacity, although their installation takes more time. To make them work as a single beam, they are nailed down in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We install the harness and logs

The next stage is installation and installation of the logs. These are the same 150*50 mm boards placed on edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the trim board, two nails on the right and left to the bed. So each lag is on both sides.

The photo shows that the first joist is installed close to the second - this way the load is better transferred to the foundation. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the cross-section of the lumber used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, to prevent the logs from “moving away,” jumpers are placed above the cross beam. Their length is equal to the step of installing the logs minus the double thickness of the board: if the step of the log is 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring has been installed, it is time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We will show you an economical option - with polystyrene foam boards with a density of 15 kg/m3 (more is possible, less is not possible). It is, of course, not environmentally friendly, but it is the only one that is not afraid of moisture and can be installed without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they shift).

To begin with, a 50*50 mm cranial block is packed along the lower edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

The foam is cut with a regular hacksaw. The blade can be used for wood - it cuts faster, but you get a torn edge, or for metal - it cuts slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut slabs are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they seal the perimeter with sealant to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay the subfloor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). To prevent the rough flooring of boards from warping, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to look up and down (see photo).

You can do without plank flooring. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your region and choose.

In any case, the sheets should be laid in a spaced pattern - the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Also, do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size when humidity changes.

The plywood is attached with self-tapping screws 35 mm long (preferably white ones - less waste) around the perimeter in increments of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 40 cm.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part, depending on the size) on the floor, then raised, positioned and secured. Sometimes with this method, OSB, gypsum fiber board, or plywood are attached directly to the floor on the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-panel or “platform”. Factories generally operate according to this principle: they build ready-made panels according to the design in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But frame-panel house construction is possible with your own hands.

The second method: everything is assembled gradually, locally. The beam of the bottom frame is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate posts, the top frame, etc. This is the technology called “frame house construction” or “balloon”.

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract help. Working on the floor is faster and more convenient than jumping up/down a stepladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult even for two people to lift it. The solution is either to call help or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation pitch and cross-section of racks

Corner posts should be 150*150 mm or 100*100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner posts, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will be insulating with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, no gaps and cracks through which heat will escape. The density of installation of insulation in frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold.

Fastening the racks is possible in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. The corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels is an old technology, but difficult to implement: long dowels are planed, a hole is drilled obliquely through the stand and beam of the lower trim, a wooden tenon is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity is possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore the support must be more powerful.

Reinforced counters near windows and doors are a must. This is the only way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable

Bevels or braces

If the outer cladding is planned to be made of high-strength board material - OSB, gypsum fiber board, gypsum fiber board, plywood - the slopes are placed temporarily and from the inside of the room. They are needed to level and maintain geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is sufficient to create the required structural rigidity.

If the cladding is planned to be made up of linings, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover, the best option is not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Please note that in the photo above the racks are prefabricated: two boards are nailed together along the entire length in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones and cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But construction time increases: you have to hammer in a lot of nails.

Corners of a frame house

The most questions arise when building corners. If you place a beam in a corner, then there seem to be no difficulties, except that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winters this is not a problem, but in central Russia it requires some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in diagrams, so it’s clearer.

After assembling the frame, it is most often sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Covering

The floor beams rest on the beam of the upper frame. There are several mounting methods:

• on supporting steel brackets;
• on the corners;
• with insert;

Notching - the depth of the cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the top frame timber. It is hammered in from above with two nails, which must go into the harness at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily perforated staples - the shape may vary

The dimensions of the beams and the pitch of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the cross-section is taken larger, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and attic on top are assumed to be non-residential, these are completely different calculations and dimensions.

If a second floor is being built, the ceiling is sheathed with the subfloor of the second floor. This will make it easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first one. The only reason is that all the lumber has to be hauled to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project using frame technology, the most popular are or. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only limitation concerns the weight of the roofing: it must be a light material, the load from which wooden beams and ceilings can withstand.

To fix the rafters in a given position before the sheathing was filled, temporary jibs were used

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Insulation

A frame house can be insulated with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is available in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the pushing force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm larger than the distance between the frame posts. The mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work with than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected on all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.

On the street side, the thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown, does not allow moisture in liquid or gaseous states to pass through from the street, and vapors can escape from the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, that's it, construction is over.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detail of some processes is far from complete, but you have a general assembly sequence. Perhaps another video from a professional carpenter who has been building frame houses for decades will help you (see below).

Video instructions for installing frame houses

These are three videos of excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each of them lasts more than an hour. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to these instructions, self-construction is possible without any questions: all stages of building a frame house and small details are commented on and explained, down to what nails, what length, how many pieces in what increments, should be hammered into each node. The main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them are demonstrated. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clearer to you.

The first part is the lower trim and the floor.

The second part of the video is the design and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is building the roof of a frame house.

If you still doubt whether to build a frame house, it is probably because you have heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are built from dry wood, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood is brought from the sawmill with almost natural humidity, and this is up to 60%. That’s why the houses twist and turn, they become cold.

But if you are planning to build a house with your own hands, what will stop you from using dry wood? Kiln drying is expensive, the difference per cubic meter is very significant - almost twice. But by stacking the wood on the site in ventilated piles, it can be dried to the same 20-22% within a year. You decide for yourself whether or not to impregnate it with bioprotection before drying. Dry wood does not rot or be damaged by fungi, but it is advisable to impregnate it with bioprotection against insects.

An example of this opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...

Building a frame house with your own hands is a very tempting business. There are entire settlements made of frame houses, for example. Elbronn in Germany, on the left in the picture, has existed for more than 500 years. Nowadays, frame housing construction is widespread in countries with a rather harsh climate and high requirements for quality of life; on the right in Fig. – a residential area in Puulinnanmaa, Finland. And at the same time, calculating the cost of materials for the construction of a one-story residential frame house of 100 square meters. m gives an amount of less than 500 thousand rubles, and for a country house - less than 50,000 rubles. One hundred square meters of your own home for the price of half a room in a Moscow two-room apartment - yes, it’s worth thinking about. Moreover, if special equipment is required, it will be at least for a short time, and industrial technologies can be dispensed with altogether.

This article is intended to give the basics of what you need to know to build a frame house yourself. At least to decide, if there is not enough money for a brick building, to build a frame one or, say, a timber structure. And, if a gap is found somewhere, know where and how to dig deeper.

Build or order?

The cost of building a turnkey frame house varies greatly even within one region of the Russian Federation, from $80 to $240 per 1 sq. m. of finished housing. What plays a role here is not so much transportation costs (in the middle zone - up to 100 rubles/km for delivery up to 100 km from the warehouse), but how the house is tied to the site, and the foundation to the ground. The first means the location of the house in accordance with sanitary requirements and convenience/possibility of supplying communications; the second is the selection and development of a foundation design for the bearing capacity, heaving and water content of the soil under the building. Both may require surveys at the construction site, which are very expensive. But in any case 100 sq. m. of a ready-to-move-in house will cost less than 1.5 million rubles, which is still quite attractive.

How much and how can you save here if you rely only on yourself? Maximum – with the involvement of specialists for certain types of work? Both relatively and directly in terms of money – very significant. If you know what pitfalls you may encounter and how to get around them. For example, frame house projects can be downloaded from the RuNet for free. But – the projects are sketches, without references, exact specifications and details. A “working” project without bindings costs about 10,000 rubles, but without the same bindings it is impossible to work on it. But just tying the foundation to the ground will cost no less than 30,000 rubles; complete, with communications - under 100 thousand. Moreover, “full” also means obtaining a lot of permits from state and municipal authorities; We won’t say what this will lead to; it’s better to read Saltykov-Shchedrin.

Similar inconsistencies are found at all other stages of building a house using the step-by-step saving method. In order not to overload the text with negativity, let us simply recommendations on how to build a frame house inexpensively:

1. Residential with a permanently inhabited attic or 2-storey for yourself and children - order turnkey.
2. A summer cottage or a small one-story residential building - build it yourself, guided by free projects and additional information, at least set out later in this article, with subsequent legalization. This will be easier and cheaper than collecting papers in advance. And the house is already standing, and no one can do anything with it, once the process of legalization has begun.
3. A heated, comfortable dacha or house for a family for 10-20 years, until funds are raised for capital construction, should be assembled from a ready-made house kit. Prices for sets of SIP panels (see below) are within the range of 6-7 thousand rubles per 1 sq. m. m. Estimated service life – 40 years. On-site assembly by specialists will cost about 100% of the cost of the kit, and you still need to do the foundation with communications wiring yourself.

Note on item 3: The house kit includes a plan and preliminary design of the foundation with specifications for anchors, their location, etc. But what type of foundation to make is your own risk, because... the seller has no way of knowing in advance where and on what soil the house will be.

More about house kits

An innovation in the market for prefabricated individual housing, houses made of SIP (structural insulated panels) are classified as prefabricated panel houses, which will be discussed in more detail below. In addition to them, there are so-called frame-panel houses on sale. modern German technology. They are assembled only on site from panels on a wooden frame with windows, doors, communications and finishing only by teams of company specialists with the continuous use of lifting equipment: finished panels are very heavy, and the technology for their assembly is complex and requires solid professional training. The foundation of the house is also built by the contractor, because... Without a certificate of suitability for it, the manufacturer simply will not sell the kit. In general, “new German” houses have only 2 advantages of frame houses: rapid construction (construction period - 2-6 months) and, on the scale of society as a whole, environmental friendliness, because The need for dirty cement-concrete production is significantly reduced. The turnkey price of prefabricated German houses is comparable to that for brick and prefabricated reinforced concrete houses.

About guarantees and insurance

Another rather slippery point is guarantees. According to point 2, of course, there are none. According to point 1 - from the contractor, but don’t be fooled by the 15-50 year guarantee, this company most likely will not last that long. A competent and conscientious builder will give a guarantee for 3-5, up to 10 years, until the settlement ends. And then - no one can really guarantee anything; suddenly, for example, a plant was built nearby, but it changed the local geology and landslides began. According to clause 3, subject to self-assembly, guarantees are given only for the quality of parts and completeness after delivery to the site; for pick-up - the same at the seller's warehouse. When assembled by branded specialists, guarantees do not apply to cases related to what they did not do: foundation, communications, nearby trees, the possibility of flooding, etc. As for insurance, according to point 1 it is quite possible, but the premiums will be much higher than for a brick house. And according to paragraphs. 2 and 3 – it’s better not to mess with this matter.

What is good and what is bad about them?

Before you decide whether to build a frame house or something else, you need to know their main advantages and disadvantages. There are more of the first, I must say. You already know about the cost; rest pros:

Basic The disadvantages of frame houses are as follows:

Point 5 requires some explanation. The prevalence of frame houses in the USA, Canada and Scandinavia is explained rather by socio-psychological reasons. In America, where everything is money, and money is everything, children, having grown up, leave for their parents, even knowing that they will have to starve and live in poverty. And, if nothing will happen to them by inheritance, then they will most likely consider manifestations of family affection unnecessary. And having inherited their parents’ property, they will go into debt, but they will tear down the still quite suitable house of their “ancestors” and build their own. These prejudices do not apply to secondary products from strangers.

In Scandinavia, it is also customary for grown children to separate from their parents, but the reason is that the land in the north is poor and unproductive. To remain on one's feet and live with one nest means that the old people will survive from the lands that provide food. The solution is to move to a temporary home in another place, and after receiving an inheritance, return and settle down permanently. Now this is in the past, but the way of thinking does not change so easily.

A little history

Frame houses did not appear in the middle of the last century, or even when Elbronn was founded. The very first human dwellings - a primitive hut, tent, wigwam - are nothing more than frame buildings. During excavations of Neolithic (Late or New Stone Age) pile settlements in Switzerland and England, the remains of structurally quite perfect frame houses were discovered.

Without knowing the past, you cannot understand the present. In relation to frame construction, this means that you need to build wisely. The seemingly simple building has absorbed centuries of human experience. For a house to stand, you need to understand the purpose of each part and how it works in the structure. We hope that the material in this article will be useful to you.

Types of frame houses

According to assembly technology, frame houses are divided primarily into panel houses and frame houses. The first ones are assembled from ready-made boards (panels); to build the latter, a frame is first built from long parts, then it is sheathed and insulated. Let's consider both in order. Frame houses are more suitable for independent construction, so we’ll start with them.

Framework

The general diagram of the structure of a frame house is shown in Fig. on right. Structurally, it is a rigid box with a working, i.e. bearing operational loads, casing. The latter is not always true; there are structures where the frame holds everything. The roof with an attic, if any, is a separate module connected to the box. The roof can either work together with the box or simply rest on it. From here it is clear that the main thing in such a building is the frame. There are 3 main varieties of them:

Features of Finnish

The Finnish frame has a number of features, as a result of which it has been seriously displaced by the “Canadian”. Firstly, for its casing to work, it must be internal, see fig. left. Any external cladding will not be strong. This technical paradox is interesting, but it seriously limits the possibilities of internal repairs and redevelopment.

Secondly, the pitch of the vertical frame posts should not be less than approximately 500 mm, otherwise the posts will interfere with each other’s ability to bear the load. The result will be something like an airplane or a ship with too many hulls, heavy and fragile. That is, to cover it with siding or plastic lining, which are unable to bear concentrated loads, the outside of the house will have to be sheathed with something like plywood or a sheathing with a counter-batten made, which will increase its weight, labor intensity and cost.

But the “Finn” racks, except for the corner ones, can be made of 150x50 boards, and not of timber. And the Finnish frame forgives rather serious mistakes of amateur builders, which the Canadian one does not tolerate. In general, it is best to build a small and inexpensive country frame house in Finnish style. What Soviet summer residents knew well already when the very concept of a “Finnish house” had not yet come into use.

Note: the half-timbered frame also has its own peculiarities. Houses on it are ordered by wealthy developers who cannot bear to live “in stone.” Or they are built for themselves by skilled, neat and resourceful carpenters, who, thanks to their qualities, have become quite wealthy people.

What is LSTK?

About 6% of frame houses in the world are built on a frame made of light thin-walled steel structures, LSTK, see fig. on right. The frame is assembled from galvanized C- and U-profiles, somewhat similar to those used for drywall. However, God forbid you build a house on a frame made of plasterboard profiles! Construction ones are completely different:

1. Steel thickness – up to 3 mm.
2. Zinc coating – 350 g/sq.m. m; for plasterboard – 120 g/sq.m. m.
3. There are grooves in the shelves, due to which the thermal conductivity of thermal bridges is reduced by 80-90%, this is the so-called. thermal profile, see next. rice.

The estimated service life of LSTK frames is 70-100 years, but the technology itself has existed for a shorter period of time. Nevertheless, some conclusions can already be drawn from statistics: if wooden frame houses systematically change their lifespan, then LSTK are also systematically deficient. The reason is the sudden appearance of pockets of corrosion in the most unexpected places, which experts have not yet fully understood. In addition, houses built on LSTK are less repairable than wooden houses, and the cost of construction is 1 sq. m of housing in them is approx. $600/sq. m. In general, LSTK technology is an option for everyone in places where industrial wood is very expensive and the climate is dry. And even there, the fire resistance of LSTK is zero: in a flame, the thin metal instantly gets tempered, weakens, and a few minutes after the fire the entire building catastrophically collapses. However, if you are still interested in LSTK, the details are in the video.

Video: frame construction of houses using LSTK technology

Note: there are no standards for LSTK at all; According to SNiP, the minimum thickness of metal parts in building structures is from 4 mm, based on the same fire resistance. So the contractor’s guarantee is only his word of honor, and we don’t have to talk about legalizing unauthorized construction and insurance at all. As well as about a mortgage for LSTK construction.

Bulk carriers

A bulk carrier in this case is not a dry cargo ship, but a technology for constructing a house frame. Its peculiarity is that only 2-3 standard sizes of boards are used, from which profiles similar to steel tees, I-beams and angles are assembled in production using a tongue-and-groove method. The frame is built from wooden profiles, see fig. on right.

Bulk technology saves wood and produces timber of better quality: from the same log there are more boards than beams, and they dry and soak faster and more evenly. Thanks to this, the calculated The service life of a bulk carrier can reach 100 years, however, the development of bulk carrier construction is hampered by the increased cost of work: a highly qualified team must assemble the frame.

Panel

Modern German prefabricated panel houses are mentioned above. Since the leitmotif of the article is “with your own hands,” this is enough. If you like it, you have the money, choose and order. No unscrupulous manufacturers or contractors have been spotted on the market. And that is to say, with people who are capable of shelling out such sums for a square meter of housing, it is somehow not customary to cheat: the usual period of a company guarantee is 10-15 years, and 25 is not unusual.

SIP

SIPs (structural insulated panels), or SIP (Structural Insulated Panel) come in several types; In construction, power or load-bearing structures are used. Such a SIP is a 3-layer cake made of OSB (oriented strand board; also OSB, Oriented Strand Board) of classes OSB-3 E1, OSB-3 E0, OSB-4 E1 or OSB-4 E0 (for more details, see below). p. about the materials of frame houses), between which foam plastic is laid, pos. 1 in Fig. The principle of construction from OSB is the same as that of a broom - individually it’s flimsy, but all together it’s oaky.

SIP house kits contain a set of parts for the house (item 2), including all the little things, right down to the fasteners. The phased construction looks like this:

• A base plate is mounted on the foundation.
• A ridge made from a complete wooden beam is placed on it.
• Panels with grooves are installed on the ridge and slide into each other.
• The complete beam of the upper trim is mounted in the upper groove of the box.
• The ceiling is being installed.
• The roof is assembled from the same SIP panels.
• Windows and doors are installed in the openings using complete connectors.

As a rule, 1 person works on the site, pos. 3 in Fig. To complete construction in 1-1.5 months, an unqualified assistant is needed. If you do not have a manual winch or hoists at your disposal, sometimes 2-3 more helpers are required to lift the panels. And the result after finishing looks very good (item 4), lasts up to 40 years and, with metal-plastic windows with 2-chamber double-glazed windows, requires heating costs half as much as a brick house of the same size.

Vertical joints are tongue-and-groove (see figure below) with glue and nails. Horizontal - using Ecopan technology, see ibid. The stumbling block for novice builders - the roof - in a SIP house is also very simple: the strength indicators of the SIP assembly are such that a Mauerlat is not needed at all, see next. rice. on right.

The disadvantages of SIP houses are common to frame ones, see above. True, the danger in a fire is even greater: the foam begins to release huge volumes of toxic gases even before the fire reaches it directly.

However, the probability of a fire in a private residential building depends more than 99% on its residents, therefore, if, as they say, a full-fledged teapot intends to build a frame house for permanent residence, then the SIP house kit should be considered the closest to the optimal one.

The main difficulty here is checking the completeness of the delivery. The specification contains several dozen or the first hundreds of items, and for each of them – up to several thousand items. details. Sellers of cheap SIP houses for self-assembly, it must be said, are not shy: in case of a claim, one (1) non-original self-tapping screw was found, or the slot of the original one was licked off with the “wrong” screwdriver - that’s it, the warranty has expired, now it’s your problem.

Note: external and internal finishing of SIP houses - any at the discretion of the owner. But the possibility of redevelopment is completely absent. Prefabricated SIP houses are also unsuitable for stove heating.

What does it cost us to build a house?

This is worth it to start choosing the type of foundation, selecting and preparing materials. This is what we'll do for now. As for the construction of the foundation itself, this is a different conversation for each of its types. We will only touch on the features directly related to the construction of the frame on it. However, none of them will prevent you from subsequently building a different type of house on the same foundation.

Foundation

A frame house can withstand any foundation; we need to choose something cheaper and simpler, depending on the nature of the soil. Additionally, it is desirable that it would then be possible to build a stronger house on the same foundation and, possibly, with extensions and superstructures, which would require the so-called. tying the foundation to the house. The primary foundation must be suitable for anchoring another. Over the next 10-15 years, this will allow an average-income family to acquire housing for themselves and their children without getting into debt bondage. As a result, The foundation for a frame house is selected as follows:

1. The soil is weak (bearing capacity up to 2 kg/sq. cm), i.e. silty, peaty, watered fine sand, etc. – shallow slab foundation. For future reconstruction/completion, the best option would be USHP - an insulated Swedish stove. This type of foundation is designed specifically for frames, but also supports a 1-story brick house with a light wooden attic, incl. Siberian is well suited for housing, see below. For a small and light country house - a metal grillage; you can - homemade.
2. The soil normally bears the load, but is heavily or excessively heaving: plump wet clays, fine silty sands - pile-tape with a shallow reinforced concrete grillage. For small-scale dacha and seasonal construction - pile construction on bored concrete piles.
3. The soil is medium heaving: lean clays and loams, sandy loams, wet and/or dusty loose and gravelly soils - columnar of normal depth with plinths and a brick plinth. For unheated country houses and similar buildings, a small-depth columnar structure is used, similar to the floor sheathing support columns described below.
4. The soil is slightly heaving or practically non-heaving: hard dry clays, loose and gravelly soils with a dust content of less than 30% by volume, rocky soils - shallow or columnar as in the previous one. point, and for light unheated small-scale buildings, columnar with a base, which is completed after the construction of the building according to.

Note: The draft of frame houses is small, but still there. Therefore, in the latter case, the base is first made temporary from sheet materials, as long as the subfloor is not blown through, and the construction is completed next summer.

Anchors

As you know, the building is attached to the foundation with metal anchors: bolts, brackets, dovetails and wedges (to a foundation made of natural stone). The anchors are located in the middle of the strip or pillar with a pitch of 1-1.5 m for the strip. In a slab foundation, the anchors are placed along its perimeter with an indentation (reference) from the edge according to the standard for this type of slab.

For reasons of overall strength, the anchors should be in the corners, but for a frame foundation this is not feasible, because There will definitely be main load-bearing pillars at the corners. Then the corner anchors are installed in pairs, as shown in Fig. on right. For ease of marking - on conditional extensions of the inner sides of the slab, but this is not critical; the main thing is that the anchors should not be closer to each other than 150-200 mm, otherwise they will weaken each other. A brick house can then be built on such a foundation, as they say, without anything.

Pillars

Supporting pillars are required for the lag lathing of the frame floor, because When the beam spans more than 2 m, the load-bearing capacity of the floor drops sharply. The recommended step for placing pillars inside the foundation strip along the length of the building is from 1500 mm, and in width - from 1800 mm, see previous page. rice. The pitch is chosen in whole fractions of the length of the corresponding side of the building, and, importantly, the step in length should not be greater than the step in width. Thus, for example, for a 6x8 m house you will need 2 rows of pillars, 3 pillars in a row.

The second condition is that although the crosshairs of the joists do not all have to fall on the pillars, the center of each pillar must coincide with the crosshairs of the corresponding joists. And third, if the foundation is entirely columnar, the perimeter pillars should be located in the middle of the spans between the vertical posts of the frame. It is also possible for the post to fit under the post, but then you will have to bury 2 anchors in each post.

The pillars are laid out of brick (not silicate or adobe!) on a concrete base, see fig. For this, they most often take ready-made monoliths from 400x400x600 to 400x400x200. The depth of the base into the ground is 150-550 mm, depending on its nature. This does not apply to perimeter pillars; they need to be buried according to the foundation calculations! A 150 mm sand and gravel cushion is made under the base. The protrusion of the base above the ground is about 50 mm.

The pillars themselves are laid out in 1.5 bricks. Difficult ligation of seams, because the post bears only a vertical compressive load, it is not necessary, they are placed “fence-style”. Again, this applies only to internal pillars; perimeter pillars are laid as it should be for foundation pillars. The height of the masonry is 5 rows of single or 3 rows of one and a half bricks, which, taking into account the thickness of the masonry joint and the protrusion of the base, gives a subfloor height of 350-400 mm.

Surface

The frame is placed on the foundation dry. If there is a gap somewhere between the tree and the foundation, this will cause the so-called. capillary soaking: water will stay in the gap all the time, and the wood will rot, no matter what you impregnate or treat it with. Therefore, the maximum permissible general and local unevenness of the foundation is 3 mm. It is useless to correct holes and bumps with cement on a foundation that has gained strength: the lining will soon peel off, which will give the same capillary.

To withstand all these conditions, the tape must be poured very carefully, using tie-down cords and constantly monitoring yourself with a hose level. When the concrete has set, but is still wet, the upper surface of the tape is brought to evenness by ironing - sprinkled with dry cement from a sieve and rubbed with a trowel.

Internal support pillars are installed when the tape gains strength. Their surfaces are aligned with the tape along the berths, varying the thickness of the masonry seam; according to SNiP it is 10-12 mm, i.e. you can gain a whole centimeter on a single brick masonry or 6 mm on a one and a half brick.

Note: It’s clear from here that foundations for frames are not something to joke about. Collect his tape from ready-made monoliths? Under a light building on heaving ground, they will go, some into the forest, some for firewood. Conclusion: it is better to order the foundation from a proven professional.

Waterproofing

Immediately before the installation of the frame begins, the tape and pillars are covered with 1-2 layers of roofing material, regular, without topping. It will smooth out very small irregularities and prevent capillaries from appearing. Covering in advance, at least 2-3 light days in advance, can only be done with ultraviolet (UV, UV) stabilized roofing material, but it is expensive. It’s better to keep the roll of plain in the shed until the time comes.

Materials

Frame

The main material of the frame - wood - must be impregnated with a biocide (antiseptic) and a fire retardant that prevents fire. Then the tree will not burst into flames, but will slowly smolder, maintaining its strength for a long time. Outside the fire it will go out on its own.

It is advisable to impregnate finished parts, cut to size and with selected grooves. Firstly, then the ends will be better saturated, along which it is easiest for mold spores to get into the tree. Secondly, unimpregnated wood waste is suitable for firewood and crafts, but impregnated wood waste is in no case suitable!

Of the standard sizes of scaffolding, you will need the most edged boards 150x50, timber from 100x100 to 250x250 (most often 150x150) and, for the floor, tongue and groove boards (100-150)x(30-40). If funds allow, it is better to take ready-made glued and impregnated timber. A homemade set of boards using cold-curing glue and nails is absolutely not suitable; then the house is unlikely to last more than 10 years.

For a two-story house, the choice of wood type is clear: dense, durable deciduous trees - oak, beech, hornbeam. Birch is not suitable; it rots very easily. Look in the forest, on which dead trees do tinder fungi appear first? It is impossible to save money on the second floor by using thicker wood: the frame frame perceives the loads as a single whole, and one weak point can act like the first fallen domino in a snake.

Note: Imported sets of house frames made from Scandinavian and American pine – hemlock – are available for sale. Their domestic analogues are Daurian and Tuvan larches and Siberian cedar. The former will cost more, and industrial harvesting of Siberian cedar is not carried out at all.

A one-story house can be built from ordinary coniferous trees. For a permanently inhabited building, you need selected wood, without knots, strands, or cross-layers. A simple timber frame will be used for an unheated country house. It is also suitable for a residential building measuring up to 5x8 m with ceilings up to 2.5 m, provided that all racks are supported by wind struts at the bottom and top, see below, and the estimated service life is up to 30 years. A house with a residential attic is equivalent to a 2-story house. From seasonal to 1-storey.

Sheathing

The next material is cladding. Waterproof plywood 24 mm thick road. Cement particle boards (CPB) hold plaster well, but are heavy and quite fragile. In general, the best material for sheathing is OSB. In essence, this is multi-layer plywood, but not from veneer, but from chips, see fig. Its layers are oriented in mutually perpendicular directions, due to which phenomenal strength is achieved. For example, a car drives onto a supporting SIP made of OSB and EPS, laid on supports, but the slab does not bend.

For house cladding, boards of OSB-3 or OSB-4 classes are needed. A large number means greater load-bearing capacity and cost of the slab. OSB-1 and OSB-2 boards are not load-bearing and water-resistant and are only suitable for interior decoration of permanent buildings. The next point is the class for the release (emission) of phenolic compounds; OSB is glued together with phenol-formaldehyde resins. Boards with emission class E1 or E0 are suitable for residential buildings. Here, on the contrary, the lower the number, the lower the emissions and the higher the price.

Cheap Chinese OSB with E2 emissions can be used for cladding summer country houses. Then they build the frame over the summer, and in the fall, while it is still warm, they sheathe it from the inside. Over the winter and early spring, the phenol will wear out, then the next summer the house will be insulated and finished. But you can’t live in it for the first summer!

Insulation

The best home insulation in terms of heating technology is polystyrene foam, which is also inexpensive. But it has a serious drawback: when it burns, it emits huge volumes of deadly poisonous gases. In addition, simple granular foam, if the wall warms up to 50 degrees or higher in the summer under the Sun, soon begins to crumble, and all insulation is reduced to nothing.

It is preferable to make the insulation of a frame house from mineral wool slabs. Precisely slabs, not mats. The difference in design is clearly visible: if the stove is placed on its butt, it stands. And the mat bends and flops. Mats, as cheaper ones, are used to insulate floors and interfloor ceilings.

There is also a nuance with mineral wool: it can be short-fiber or long-fiber. Short-fiber dust produces microneedles, which can be anything but beneficial for your health. Long fiber is safe; In addition, it is weakly saturated with condensate and easily loses it.

As for the so-called eco-mats and slabs made of flax, hemp, sisal, then sellers charge eco-friendly prices without hesitation. But in fact, “eco” is only sisal, they do not generate dust and do not rot. Adobe, by the way, is also not “eco” at all - it generates dust, and no infection can be found in the straw crumbs. Of the homemade “eco” ones, reeds have been well tested in practice, but they are flammable.

There is also an interesting option for homemade insulation: dry sea grass zoster (aka damask, stress on the last syllable, or eelgrass). In addition to the fact that damask is an excellent insulator, it does not rot for centuries, prevents wood from rotting and disinfects the air in the room. Fisherman's huts with damask insulation stand for 150-200 years under the rotten salty winds. Unfortunately, although the reserves of damask, at least in winter storm emissions on the shores of our seas, are huge, insulation boards made from it are not visible on sale.

Roof

Roofing materials for frames are generally used as usual, with one exception. Due to the fact that the thermal resistance of its walls from the roofing pie is high, flexible tiles - ondulin - on the roof in the off-season experience thermal shocks, soon lose their plasticity and crack. And so – cover it with whatever (sorry, whatever) you want.

We are building a house

Now we can already say: that’s it, we’re building a frame house! Which? We leave the half-timbered one alone; not every pro can do it. That leaves a Canadian and a Finn; prefabricated SIPs were sorted out earlier. We also assume that we have decided on the purpose, size and number of floors of the house.

Canadian platform

For those who want to build the Canadian way, we suggest just watching the film that made carpenter Larry Houn world famous. Its 4 parts, with a total duration of about 4 hours, contain detailed step-by-step instructions for building a large residential building using the “Canadian platform” technology:

Base, platform and floor

Bottom trim, walls, top trim

Roof and roofing

The last part is not so easy to find in open sources, but it is very useful for those who really want to build. We will deal with a Finnish house, for which there are no such detailed instructions from the most experienced carpenter.

Finnish

By and large, as they say, the installation of a Finnish house is carried out in a certain sequence. It must not be violated, otherwise the house will turn out to be fragile and unstable.

First of all, a box of frames is assembled on the foundation. This stage is divided into 4 substages, see Fig. on right:

1. The lower trim is mounted on the foundation;
2. Corner posts (beams) are installed, and intermediate posts are installed between them. All of them are accurately aligned vertically and supported by temporary jibs nailed on the outside, in Fig. conditionally not shown;
3. The top trim is laid on the vertical braces and attached to them, and the ceiling beams are installed;
4. Permanent wind braces are installed, temporary jibs are removed, and window and door openings are formed.

Note: remember that the total area of ​​door and window openings should not exceed 18% of the area of ​​the corresponding wall. The distance from the corner is at least 1 span between the posts. The width of the openings is 1 or 2 spans.

After assembling the box, a lathing is made from the floor joists. The next step is to make the crossbar (supporting structure) of the roof, without a roof yet. Next is the internal power lining made of OSB. Then - insulation of the walls, their rough outer cladding. Now we lay the floor, with insulation, and sew up the ceiling. We lay, with insulation, the floor of the attic or attic. We make roofing pie and roofing. While all this is being done, the house has already settled (the frames settle very quickly); This means you can install windows and doors. All that's left is finishing, interior and exterior, and - housewarming!

Bottom harness

The bottom trim is made of timber. We will not talk about the fact that its rectangularity needs to be verified by diagonals and measurements of all sides; the reader, presumably, is already familiar with the basics of construction. The main thing here is connecting the corners, because... wind loads on the frame will tend to pull the frame to the sides. The simplest way is in half a tree, on the left in Fig. - in this case, it is not entirely reliable: you will have to hammer in so many nails that the angle will weaken.

It is much better to mount it in half a tree with a dowel in the center. A pole is placed on the protruding part of the boss (the socket in its end is selected with a brace) and the entire corner begins to work as one. Even stronger and more reliable if you have some carpentry experience and a template, a claw connection, on the right in Fig. Under the post, so that it would be generally “wow!”, it is better not to be lazy and additionally reinforce the paw with a dowel.

Poles and racks

Making cuts in the lower beam in the old-fashioned way, as shown on the left in the figure, is unnecessary in our time: the work is labor-intensive, and the strength of the most loaded unit is reduced. And such fastenings do not hold horizontal loads “inside-out”, just like all fastenings on obliquely driven nails.

It is best to fasten with corners, but not simple ones, but reinforced ones, with a stamped stiffening rib, on the right in Fig. Metal thickness - from 4 mm, galvanizing or chrome plating is required. Self-tapping screws - phosphated (black) for wood with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 3/4 of the thickness of the counter part, 3 per angle leg.

Note: temporary jibs from magpie boards are placed on 100-150 mm nails.

The installation step of racks made of 150x50 boards should not exceed 800 mm. A whole number of spans must be laid along the length of the wall; it is important that the frame is loaded evenly. It is customary to take the installation step of racks to be 500-600 mm, this gives its multiplicity in whole fractions of a wall of any length. In walls longer than 5.5 m, it is permissible to install 1 window 3 bays wide; then between the window sill and the lintel and the corresponding lower and upper beams of the frame, permanent struts are placed, as in the corners, see below.

About imposts

Sometimes you can find recommendations to form nests for poles and racks using imposts; in Russian - inserts. Take 2 pieces of board, nail them to the beam with a gap, and insert a stand or post into the groove between them. So, they say, it’s cheaper and easier. In fact, this is not the case at all:

• We need additional boards, which cost money.
• The highest marking accuracy is required, because, unlike cut-out nests, the installation error accumulates as installation progresses. If you cut the imposts in place every time, everything will go awry.
• The groove between the imposts does not support the “inside-out” load. You can’t really grab it with nails at an angle; the insert board itself doesn’t allow it. The corners remain, but what do imposts have to do with it then?

Upper harness

It is best to connect the corners of the bars of the upper harness into a paw. Now there is no need to fool around with dowels, because... can be mounted from above to the end. The frame is attached to the pillars at the corners from above with 8x250 self-tapping screws (for timber 150x150), and reinforced from below with corners. The racks are attached only with corners from the bottom, 2 for each.

Ceiling beams

In ceiling beams (beams 150x150), only a little bit of wood is chosen for installation, as long as it doesn’t crawl, see fig. on right. They are attached with corners from the sides, because There should be a beam for each pair of racks. It is unacceptable to place beams between the posts!

Permanent braces

Permanent wind braces in the corners are placed flush with the posts/beams from the inside. They are fitted with a 150x50 board spread out lengthwise, for a total of 75x50. They are fastened with 100 mm nails at an angle, this is enough. In the same way, if required (see above), the frame racks are reinforced, see fig. below. The height of the struts in both cases is 1/5-1/8 of the height of the racks/pillars.

Wind connections - house frame struts

Joists and floor

The step for installing the logs along the length of the house is 300 mm, and in width - 1.8-2 m. Then, for example, for a 6x4 m house you will need 19 transverse 4-meter logs and 1 longitudinal 6-meter log. The grooves in them for inserting half a tree are selected in advance, and the logs, like the subfloor boards (see below), are treated with bitumen mastic in advance.

The main problem when installing the sheathing is the ends of the joists. It is unacceptable for them to hang; they must rest on something. It is not advisable to cut the strapping into the beam for reasons of strength of both. It is generally impossible to attach corners to beams; such fastening is not capable of holding a large constant shear load for a long time.

In a fairly large residential building, as a rule, the top of the foundation is solid and the strip width is more than 300 mm. Then an additional board is placed under the ends of the joists, see fig. The logs are attached to it with corners, and the board itself is attached to the beam, between the logs. In this case, the gaps between the ends of the logs and the timber act as expansion joints without compromising the overall strength.

There is another way to pair the logs with the frame: its lower belt is made of boards, the floor sheathing is mounted, and the upper belt of timber is laid over the logs. This allows you to increase the longitudinal pitch of the lag to 600 mm, because The upward play of their ends during deflection is counteracted (they are sandwiched between the board and the timber), but the most stressed parts of the frame - the outer lower corners - turn out to be weakened. Plus, or rather, minus, pockets are formed inside the perimeter of the floor after external finishing that can become condensation traps.

In a small country house on a columnar foundation and with a hanging support frame, nothing can be done; you have to cut the logs into the beam a quarter of the way, on the left on the trace fig. But here the load is less. However, if you plan to lay a brick kitchen stove in the house, then at its future angles you will need to make additional supporting pillars of a simplified design, from a concreted asbestos-cement pipe. These pillars, of course, should also each be located under the log. They are cut to size in height using a grinder using a stone circle. If the slab itself is in the corner (taking into account the 60 cm distance from the walls required by the PB), then only 1 additional column under the hanging corner of the slab will be enough. For a Dutch oven up to 3.5x3.5 bricks in plan, 1 column is also enough, under the geometric center of its outline.

Next, under the subfloor, the so-called. cranial beams, visible in the same fig. The rough flooring is made from 30 or 40 mm tongue and groove boards. To prevent the formation of local pockets of condensation, a groove is cut off on the first board in the order of installation, and a tongue crest on the last board. Each board is nailed to the joists (not to the headers!) with a pair of 80 mm nails on each side diagonally.

How hydro- and vapor barrier of the floor is performed can be seen on the right in Fig. But in general, for a frame house, floor insulation is a very important matter; the dew point should always be in the underground. You can watch the video below for more details on this. The finishing (top) flooring and its decorative covering in a frame house are the same as in any other wooden one.

Video: insulated floor for a frame house

Note: waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier of the floor should be done before, and finishing flooring and coating should be done after the internal wall cladding, see below. In order not to trample the mats and film, boards, some kind of shields, pieces of plywood, etc. are temporarily laid on the logs along the walls.

Ceiling

With the ceiling and floor of the upper floor, the situation is easier: you can work both from below and from above, the joists have somewhere to rest, and the loads are already an order of magnitude less. Therefore, there are no insidious subtleties in the frame ceiling; how it is structured can be seen in Fig. on right. Just one caveat: to prevent the ceiling from getting wet, the ceiling in a house with a cold attic must be done according to the full scheme with insulation, as shown in Fig.

Roof

The formation of condensation in a wooden house is also unacceptable under the roof, so the framer also needs a rather complex roofing pie, see fig. left. It is insulated with mineral wool mats. The roof turns out to be relatively heavy, so it is better to reinforce its frame with additional crossbar ties, see fig. on right.

The pitch of the rafters is taken equal to twice the pitch of the frame posts. That is, here another design “bully” comes to light: the walls along which the roof ridge is oriented should have an even number of spans between the racks.

Note: additional living space in the house without significant extra investments will be provided by the so-called. Siberian attic. It can also be arranged in an existing house, but how is a separate topic.

What kind of roof should I make?

Without being a builder-designer with the appropriate education and work experience, the roof of a Finnish house can be made pitched, gable or hip; the latter - in places with strong winds. For each roofing material, there is a certain range of acceptable slope angles, so a single-pitched roof (α = 5-30 degrees) is covered with corrugated slate, UV-stabilized roofing felt or modern flexible coverings, corrugated sheets or metal tiles. The remaining 2 roofs can be covered with anything if α = 30-45 degrees. But in general, the construction of the roof is the same separate topic as for the foundation. For more details, see part 3 of the film by L. Hohn; a Canadian-style roof is also suitable for a Finnish house.

Sheathing and insulation

The internal cladding of the house is made of OSB-3 or 4 with a thickness of 24-30 mm. First, the frame is covered from the inside with waterproofing (namely hydro-, not steam-); the slabs are installed on 4.2x(80-100) self-tapping screws in increments of 100-200 mm, with a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge of the slab. There should be a self-tapping screw for each corner of the slab.

For the maximum achievable strength of the box, it is better to mount the slabs with horizontal chords, then you will get intersecting force connections: racks/pillars - vertical, slab belts - horizontal, which is what was required. Hanging, i.e. loose horizontal seams between the slabs do not have a noticeable effect on the overall strength of the box, similar to the spaces between the boards of the roof sheathing. However, if slightly more expensive tongue-and-groove slabs are included in the construction estimate, it won’t get any worse.

Firstly, the vertical seams of the slabs should not coincide in adjacent belts. To do this, it is best to carry out the cladding in a mutually opposite manner (shuttle method), applying the first solid slabs of chords alternately from one or the other corner. Secondly, the vertical connections of the slabs must be made either tongue-and-groove or half-wood wide, 2-3 times the thickness of the slab, i.e. 50-75 mm. In this case, they are reinforced with self-tapping screws in increments of 100-200 mm. The long walls are sheathed first, and the sheathing of the short ones should fit tightly between their edges, almost into space.

The most important and most loaded places remain - the corners. In our case, the corners of the sheathing correspond to the corners of the pillars. We get out of the situation like this:

• From the outside, “from the street,” we fasten the sheathing box at the corners with self-tapping screws (3.5-4.2)x70; they are screwed with a screwdriver (not by hand!) through the slab of the long wall into the end of the short one, the pitch is 100-150 mm. For the self-tapping screws, you need to pre-drill blind guide holes with a diameter of 2.5-3.3 mm, respectively, and a depth of 40-50 mm, so that the self-tapping screw does not go at random and the end of only 24 mm in thickness does not delaminate.
• To internal ones, i.e. Facing along the wall, we fill the edges of the pillars with zigzag nails with 70 mm overlays from 150x50 boards. There is no need for the overlays to overlap the corners securing the posts; it is enough for the overlays to be close to the edges of the legs of the corners.
• From the inside we attach the corners of the casing box to the linings, with the same screws, with the same pitch, also into the same blind holes drilled in advance. We “self-tap” the cladding of short walls straight, and the long ones – obliquely at an angle of 20-45 degrees. We drill guides for self-tapping screws on long walls directly into the corner of the joint of the plates, because half the thickness of the lining is eaten away by the thickness of the cladding slabs.

Insulation is carried out according to the diagrams in Fig: on the left - for the LSTK frame, in the center - under durable external cladding, on the right - under plastic lining.

More information about insulating a Finnish house can be gleaned from the video below. As for decorative finishing, in this respect a frame house is no different from any wooden one.

Video: insulation of a Finnish frame house

Note: The described method of building a frame that works in Finnish is not the only possible one. Here, for example, is a comparison video:

Video: assembling a frame house using Scandinavian technology

Shall we learn?

On mistakes. In such an important matter as building a house, you need to know where you can make a mistake, and there are plenty of opportunities for this. Quite a lot of errors are discovered after some time during a home inspection, but most of them can be corrected. So let’s just give a selection of videos:

Mistakes #1

Mistakes #2

Revision #1

Revision # 2

Revision #3

There are already 5 rather voluminous parts, as you can see. And each of them is full of information.

Dirigible house

There is another technology for building small frame houses, up to approximately 4x6 m in size. It is not Canadian, not Finnish or German construction, old or new. It is sometimes called aerostat, because. Zeppelin frames were assembled in a similar way under the Kaiser. Although an airship is not quite a balloon. It dangles in the air, wherever the wind takes it, and that’s why an airship is an airship because it’s controllable.

But to get to the point, a short video gives the concept of aerostatic technology for assembling house frames:

1. The truss parts are assembled by cutting into half a tree using self-tapping screws, followed by laying plywood gussets on both sides with nails.
2. The truss leg shoes are replaced with fittings made from sections of square corrugated pipe.
3. The thrust bearings are welded from a 100 mm angle.

And what will it be?

That is, what kind of frame can you really assemble on your own, knowing all this wisdom? Even a 2-story building with the 2nd floor removed, as in Fig. left. Its dimensions in plan can be increased to 6x9 m without deteriorating strength indicators by adding 1 section to each wall. And 120 total squares is not bad at all. The thing is that the middle posts of the long walls are made not of boards, but of 150x150 timber, just like the corner ones. In essence, these are 2 houses connected into one. The work, of course, is not for a beginner, but it is possible to do it yourself.

An example of the opposite kind is a mini country house-shelter; more like a micro-house. The author once built one for himself, its description circulated among the people for a long time until it ended up in the “Modeler-Constructor”. Drawings - in Fig. on right. Concrete pillars from grape trellises, laid horizontally with the wide side up (the cross-section of the trellis posts is trapezoidal) in trenches with a sand cushion, were suitable for the “foundation.” The soil is medium loamy loam with a layer of humus of approx. 15 cm.

The hut stood for about 10 years until my hands and wallet got around to building something more serious. It was heated in the off-season with a potbelly stove using an OU-5 fire extinguisher. Then it was willingly purchased as a gatehouse by another dacha association that had just been organized in the neighborhood. They tore it out of the ground with a crane along with the “foundation” and plopped it in a new place directly onto the gravel backfill. There he remains safely in the same capacity to this day. Only a satellite dish and air conditioning were added, the 21st century after all. And the insulation is original, damask.

The technology for constructing quickly erected buildings is very popular. This topic is constantly discussed on construction forums and causes a lot of controversy. The pros and cons of frame houses will help you form a general idea of ​​the method and become familiar with the stages of construction.

Based on the experience of European countries, there is no doubt that frame-panel houses will soon become leaders in low-rise construction. Compared to traditional construction systems, the technology has its advantages, the main one being cost-effectiveness. The financial aspect is one of the stimulating factors for acquiring your own home. Cost of 1 sq. m less than one and a half times foam concrete blocks, 2.4 times less brick walls, 1.4 times less timber.

The frame-panel constructor is assembled by the efforts of 4 people in 1.5 months. According to this principle, it is permissible to build an object of any complexity up to 3 floors. In addition, building a frame house with your own hands will allow you to save on the foundation, equipment, and a team of workers.

The disadvantages include:

1. Moisture absorption.
2. Risk of fire.
3. Poor ventilation.
4. Sensitivity to vibration.
5. Fragility.

There is a misconception that only brick, panel or wooden walls retain heat well. However, according to current thermal protection standards, modern buildings in some regions do not meet standard requirements. Canadian houses with 150 mm walls have a thermal protection coefficient equivalent to double block masonry and are quite suitable for living. In cold weather, when the heating is turned off, the rooms remain at normal temperature for a long time.

Temporary or permanent residence is determined by the thickness of the frame house. If housing is planned for seasonal stay, there is no need to purchase expensive insulation. Accordingly, the thickness of the walls will be slightly less. For a comfortable microclimate, a substrate of 10-15 cm is sufficient. If we are talking about permanent housing, the material is laid in a thick layer - more than 15 cm. Ultimately, the wall turns out to be 20 cm without taking into account the outer and inner cladding.

How to correctly calculate the thickness of a frame house

For this purpose, there is a special table with indicators for each region. Insert into the formula:

• insulation thickness parameters;
• thermal conductivity coefficient of the material;
• calculate the parameter.

You can carry out the calculations yourself using our construction calculators.

When ordering a house kit from a factory, calculations are performed on site and the customer is offered slabs with an increased safety margin. Many people believe that if they are thick, there is no need to lay insulation. This is a misconception - without a high-quality substrate, heating costs increase significantly. The walls of the frame building should resemble a layer cake. Thanks to the air cushion between them, the house remains warm even in frosty weather.

A frame house is built with your own hands using Finnish or Canadian technologies. The process algorithm is the same and consists of several stages:

1. Purchases of materials.
2. Filling the base.
3. Bottom frame of the foundation.
4. Construction of walls and roofs.
5. Installation of windows and doors.
6. Wall cladding and insulation.
7. Interior finishing.

To avoid heat loss and ensure good ventilation, it is important to adhere to adapted technology when constructing a facility.

How to build a frame house: pouring the foundation

The prefabricated structure is lightweight, so there is no point in building a powerful base. Depending on the type of soil and the number of storeys of the building, choose between:

• columnar;

How to make strapping and joists

Next, the transverse joists are installed. Boards with a cross-section of 150 x 50 mm, turned on their sides, are nailed to the end and bottom beam on the left and right in increments of 40 cm with 9 cm oblique nails. If they are long, but a transverse beam is laid, jumpers 45 cm long are stuffed on top.

Flooring

After installing the sheathing, a waterproofing film is laid between the cells, and insulation is placed on it. Budget option - polystyrene foam from 15 kg/m3 with a thickness of 150 mm. The insulation is cut with a hacksaw and laid in 2 layers. The material is distributed so that the edges of the second row of sheets do not coincide with the first, otherwise the sheets will move. To fix the foam at the bottom of the grate, a 50 x 50 mm cutting beam is stuffed around the perimeter. The seams are covered with polyurethane foam.

The material is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, then a flooring is constructed. For the subfloor, choose plywood, tongue-and-groove boards or cheap OSB-3 boards. The canvas is laid across the grate. For reliability, the sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern or perpendicular to the joists.

The flooring is secured to the joists with 50 mm self-tapping screws or rough nails. First, glue is applied to the back side of the sheets, then nailed every 15 cm along the edge and in increments of 30 cm in the middle. A gap of 3 mm is left between the segments on all sides.

Now to build walls you need a frame: wood or steel. A popular solution is oak timber, larch or other wood with a dense structure. Such designs are one third cheaper than their metal counterparts. Before installation begins, they are planed and treated with impregnations to prevent fire, rot, and pests.

Installation of vertical racks

How to build a frame house so that you can live in it for a long time without repairs? Follow the sequence of stages and take into account all construction nuances. First of all, this concerns the fastening of parts. When constructing the frame, the corner posts are first installed. If dowels are chosen for the connection, step back from the edges up to 10 cm, make holes in the end that are 1 cm longer than the length of the dowel, and attach the timber vertically.

Now choose the method of attaching the intermediate longitudinal struts. The first is fixation to the harness with partial or complete cutting, or connection with galvanized corners. The second method is simpler and more reliable, although it increases the cost of the project.

The principle of installing the upper bars is similar to the installation of the lower trim. Horizontal structures are joined at the corners with vertical posts, connected with 2 nails and corners.

How to build walls

How to make a frame house: first assemble the spans on the ground, then lift them up or assemble them on site? Usually they are already ready-made attached to the lower base. The first span is nailed to the floor and supported by jibs, the second is connected to the rack of the first, and so on around the perimeter.

Regardless of the principle of connecting the racks, they are strengthened with temporary jibs. This strengthens the lower frame until permanent supports are installed, giving the frame rigidity and resistance to wind loads. After installation of all structures:

• the skeleton is measured with a plumb line and level;
• temporary supports are removed;
• 2 strips are screwed to each support at the top and bottom.

Windows, doors

Door and window openings are installed in places according to the design. First, the racks are fixed on the sides of the niches, then the lintels are fixed at the top and bottom. The internal partitions are mounted in the same way as the frame, tied with boards for rigidity.

Ceiling

The process consists of several stages:

1. Grooves for beams are cut into the timber.
2. Transverse structures are inserted into the openings, nailed, and steel corners are screwed.
3. Inside, supports are installed along the partitions and connected to the upper and lower beams.
4. A ceiling panel made of tongue-and-groove boards is laid.
5. A vapor barrier layer is laid, insulation and a waterproofing membrane are placed on top.
6. Constructing a subfloor.

Roof

For the device choose: attic, multi-gable, single-pitched or multi-pitched roof with a slope of 10°. To calculate rafters and step sheathing, use construction tables or ours.

1. The rafters are assembled from timber below. To do this, 2 boards are spliced ​​together at the top at an angle, then lifted into place.
2. First, rafter pairs are installed on gables with an overhang of 400-500 mm.
3. The slope of the slope is adjusted, the structures are mounted to the upper frame.
4. The remaining parts of the system are installed in increments of 700 mm.
5. Then they are integrated with a ridge beam, which serves as a support for the upper rafters, and are attached to the floor of the paws.
6. They build a continuous or thin sheathing with a cross-section of 25 x 30 cm, and fix it to the rafters with side counters. The pitch of the beams is the same as that of the rafters.

A vapor barrier membrane is stapled to the inside of the rafter legs. The joints are sealed with tape, the space between the beams is filled with heat-insulating boards, then with diffuse film. At the final stage, the roof is laid. The process algorithm is clearly presented in the picture.

Wall insulation

Choose a protective material with a thickness of 50 mm: polystyrene foam, mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

1. Lay mats between the vertical posts of the frame. With double flooring, the joints of the canvases should not coincide. To protect against moisture, waterproofing is laid on the outside.
2. Then the sheathing is filled with thin slats corresponding to the thickness of the insulation. This will ensure air movement.
3. From the side of the rooms, the vapor barrier is stretched and fixed with a stapler. The walls are lined with thick plywood, gypsum fiber sheets or clapboard. The base for finishing with plasterboard is ready.
4. The outside walls are sheathed with finishing materials: block house, siding, eurolining.

All that remains is to decorate the inside of the house and celebrate the housewarming. There are a great many nuances in the construction of prefabricated frame-panel houses. Experience and knowledge will come along the way.

Full video on how to build a frame house

It’s winter, construction is at a standstill, it’s time to prepare for spring construction, collect information, think about projects, make decisions on what technology and which one to start building in the spring, and it’s just around the corner.

Last year on this forum I told how my brother and I built a frame bathhouse. Now I would like to present you with a report with photographs and explanations of the construction process of a frame house. I hope that many forum participants who are planning to build it themselves will learn something interesting and useful for themselves. We will talk about the construction of this house:

Many of you buy and read “HOUSE” magazines; in the second issue of this year there is an article telling how our friend managed to build such a house in just a few holidays and summer vacation. The editors of the magazine shortened the text I prepared a little, removed some of the photographs and drawings, but nevertheless, the construction technology is understandable, I think, to many.

Here I will present to your attention the full text with a large number of photographs, I will try to answer your questions, just do not contact me as a professional builder, I am the same as most of you, I will be happy to tell you about all the intricacies of the entire technological process I use for construction of frame houses.

They decided to build a one-story house using frame technology; for such a structure you can use a columnar foundation, which will not take much effort and time, and you can build the frame of such a house under a roof without interior decoration within a few days.

Project. The family of the owner of the house consists of four people, which means the house must have at least three bedrooms, one large room for guests, a kitchen, a toilet room with a shower, a large terrace for evening tea and outdoor dining. A typical country house for a middle-income family. They took the development of the house project very seriously, since it determines not only the ease of use of the house, but also the price of the house, construction technology and the time during which it is possible to build and carry out the exterior and interior decoration of the house.

Initially, we planned to make two bay windows so that the house would have what we thought was an unusual appearance. But in the process of working on the drawings of the frame details, we came to the decision that without bay windows, construction time and costs could be significantly reduced, and the house would be warmer and more practical. Based on these conditions and our technical capabilities, we made a house project.

The entrance to the house is through a terrace - 13 m2, in the winter it will serve as a cold vestibule, from it we pass into a small heated corridor - 5 m2, in which there is a hanger for outerwear and a shelf for shoes. From this corridor you can get to the parents' bedroom - 11m2, to the toilet room - 6m2 and to the kitchen - 18m2. The kitchen consists of two zones, next to the front door there is a work area with a sink, a work table, a gas stove, a refrigerator and shelves, then a dining area with a large table, a corner sofa and a metal stove-fireplace, from which you can enter the guest room - 21 m2 and children's bedrooms - 8.6 m2 and 10.8 m2.

Foundation. Since they decided to build a lightweight one-story house using frame technology, measuring 11 by 9 meters, the foundation of the house was made as a pillar, using asbestos-cement pipes filled with concrete mortar. Such a foundation can be made very quickly, and there is no need to wait for a month for the cement to completely harden.

Using a gas drill, we drilled holes in the ground with a diameter of 200 mm. to a depth of about one meter. The distance between the pillars is 80-90cm.
Asbestos-cement pipes with an internal diameter of 100 mm and a length of 1.3 m were installed level in the drilled holes. They sprinkled sand around the pipes, spilled water and compacted it, poured concrete solution into the pipes in the proportion: a bucket of cement, four buckets of sand and five to six buckets of crushed stone. Special plates for attaching the joists were installed in the pipes on which the floor joists will rest.
Over two weekends, 125 pipes were installed and filled with concrete.

Wells were drilled to a depth of about one meter.


The pipes were installed level and plumb, then they were sprinkled around with sand and thrombosed.


The pipes were filled with concrete solution through a special funnel.


During the May holidays from May 7-9, all the pipes of the foundation of the future house were installed and filled with concrete mortar.

The construction of frame structures has long become extremely popular. There is nothing surprising about this. This construction method is very attractive due to its simple technology, which allows you to carry out all the work on your own, without resorting to the help of hired workers. And the materials required for construction are not too expensive and quite affordable.

However, when deciding on the type, one should not proceed from the mass of the building alone.

The location on which the building is planned to be erected must also be taken into account. If it is clayey and heavy enough, then it will hardly be possible to do without a solid, monolithic foundation. If the soil has a normal sand content, then or is quite enough.

If a homeowner has doubts about the quality of the soil for construction on his site, he can check its type and composition with a local architectural office. You should not neglect it without first making sure that you can actually do without it. Natural materials of wood origin will be used in the proposed construction. Even for fully processed, high-quality material, it is better to avoid prolonged contact with water.

There are two schemes for building a frame house:

• All activities are completely self-guided. Ready-made blocks are not used: only original building materials;
• construction of a structure from fully finished, complete blocks, which are manufactured industrially.

Let's consider the first, more democratic option

Diagram of frame house components: laying the foundation

The material for the roof is selected according to the preferences and capabilities of the construction owner. It could be roofing material, and much more. Like other installation work, installation of the frame also begins from the corners.

The ends of the roof frame are securely attached to the floor joists. The roof usually has the shape of an isosceles triangle. The distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the material that is supposed to be used as insulation or coating.

It is convenient to assemble the roof frame on the surface of the ground, and then lift it and install it on the house.

Do-it-yourself cladding of a frame house

Frame wall pie diagram

Covering options may vary. This and more. A durable, waterproof material is laid under the overlapping sheathing, with a margin of 20-30 cm.

The walls are covered with the selected material, then the roof, windows and doors are inserted. The floors are laid last. The boards are hemmed under the laid joists, all the gaps formed between the boards and joists are filled with insulation.

If there is such a possibility, then it is better to make the floor insulation double-layer.

First, a layer of polystyrene foam, followed by mineral wool. When all the insulation is laid out, the floorboards are laid. They are placed perpendicular to the joists. For greater evenness and smoothness of the floor, the top can be finished with OSB boards or sheets. Once the floor is laid, you can begin finishing the interior walls. All existing gaps between horizontal and vertical joists should be filled with insulation. A special film is applied on top. Then sheathing is carried out or.

To make the walls more stable, you will have to install internal jibs for both intermediate and external walls.

Fastening points during the construction of a frame house

To