How to make a rafter system with your own hands. How to make a rafter system How to make rafters for a house options

The rafter system is the roof frame, which is the basis for laying roofing coverings.

The rafter system is designed to withstand the load of the roof, taking into account natural loads: winds, snow, rain.

The roof option is approved at the design stage.

The purpose of the roof includes several functions: warmth in the house, protection of the premises from natural phenomena, therefore The rafter system needs to be given special attention.

You can read how to calculate the rafter system.

It is customary to classify rafter systems so that the task of choosing a future roofing option is solved easier:

  • Single-pitch. The simplest ones. More suitable for utility rooms, bathhouses, small private houses, gazebos. Provides for an inclined position of the structure at a slight angle (no more than 25°);
  • Gable. Used for small houses and country houses. They have the form of a triangle, in which the rafter boards are connected by a beam and are at a certain angle;
  • Gable broken lines. They have two slopes with a fracture, thanks to which there is an opportunity to increase the attic area;
  • Three-slope (half-hip). They have two trapezoid-shaped slopes, which are connected by one end triangular slope (hip);
  • Four-slope (hip). Used for residential buildings, require significant labor costs. They have two end triangular slopes and two trapezoidal ones;
  • Tent. Used for square-shaped buildings. They consist of four triangular slopes, the upper corner of which is connected in the center of the roof;
  • Multi-pincer. Consist of trapezoidal or other slopes of various shapes, connected to each other.

The most suitable designs for - and broken gable. There are others, but they are less common and not as practical as the above.

Rafter structures are also classified into:

  • Hanging. With this type of roof frame due to the lack of load-bearing walls in the room;
  • Layered. Rafter installation option, providing support on a load-bearing internal wall or support in a building.

When designing a building, the material for the roof frame is calculated based on the intended configuration and load. It’s not difficult to make rafters for yourself, it’s important to approach the matter wisely.

Rafter systems of layered and hanging type

Calculation of the load on the rafters

To correctly calculate the load on the rafters, it is necessary to take into account many factors that can affect the weight of the structure.

Important indicators to consider:

  • Constant load: includes the mass of the roofing pie and covering material;
  • The load is temporary: constant and maximum amount of snow, rain, intensity of wind gusts, and in areas with high seismic activity - the effect of storm winds, tornadoes, hurricanes.

In addition, you should keep in mind the weight and strength of the rafter legs, and also pay attention to the fastening of the gable roof rafters and the installation option.

Scheme of rafter systems

The distance between the rafters of a gable roof and the thickness of the rafters

The rafter pitch of a gable roof is the empty space between the rafters. The functionality of the roof depends on the correct calculation of the pitch. As a rule, the step is about a meter.

To more accurately calculate the distance between rafter boards, there is a specific calculation scheme:

  1. Determine the length of the slope.
  2. The length of the slope is divided by the distance between the rafters.
  3. To determine the number of rafters, one is added to the resulting value and rounded up. This is how they determine how many boards are needed for the slope.
  4. The length of the slope is divided by the number of boards to obtain the distance between the rafters.

This calculation is not always final.

Additionally, you should take into account the load of the roofing (its weight), the thickness of the rafters, as well as the dimensions of the rafters for a gable roof.

The thickness of the rafter board largely depends on the covering material:

  • . Boards are used with a cross-section of 5x20 cm at a pitch of 60 to 90 cm with a sheathing section of 4x5 cm;
  • . Rafter boards - 5x15 cm, pitch - from 60 cm to 95 cm;
  • . The section of the board is 6x18 cm or 5x15 cm, the distance between the bars is from 80 cm to 130 cm;
  • . Rafter cross-section - 5x15 cm, 5x10 cm with pitches from 60 cm to 90 cm;
  • . The cross-section of the beam is the same as for corrugated sheeting at a pitch of 60-80 cm.

All indicators should be taken into account and the thickness of the rafters should be accurately calculated so that there is no excessive load on the foundation.

Incorrect calculation of the length of the gable roof rafters, as well as incorrect calculation of the pitch indicators, can lead to sagging of the roof.

Installing the rafters of a gable roof with your own hands requires taking into account the weight of the rafter board and all additional fastenings of the structure.

What does the rafter system consist of?

Rafter structure - a complex system and installing a gable roof rafter system is not an easy task. Rafter system consists not only of rafter boards, but also of other additional elements:

  • Mauerlat. An element that distributes the entire load evenly across the supports;
  • Run. Boards holding the legs of the rafters together: at the top - a ridge, at the side - a side girder;
  • Puffs. A connecting beam that prevents the rafter legs from diverging;
  • Struts, racks. The bars, which fix the stability of the rafters, resting on the bed;
  • . A lattice made of bars, which is applied perpendicular to the rafters. Transfers the load of the covering material to the rafter frame;
  • . A connecting beam that serves as a connection between the roof slopes;
  • Fillies. If the length of the rafter legs is insufficient, they are mounted to form an overhang;
  • Roof overhang. Extends beyond the bottom line of the slope to prevent precipitation from entering the walls.

The rafter system involves rafters, braces, braces and racks located in the same plane. They are located in such a way that the main load of the roof structure falls vertically on the external load-bearing walls. Therefore, the manufacture of gable roof rafters is a very important process.

What does a gable roof truss system consist of?

Installation of a rafter system with layered rafters

A layered rafter system is used when the span length does not exceed 6.5 meters.

If there are load-bearing structures inside the building, it is possible to install additional racks.

The main support of the rafter legs is the mauerlat.

Mauerlat installation

Before installing the Mauerlat, it is necessary to install an armored belt. It consists of formwork, into which reinforcement is laid and filled with concrete. At the base, when the concrete has not yet hardened, studs are installed, to which the Mauerlat is then attached.

Mauerlat is a beam that is laid on a support (load-bearing wall) and is the base of the rafter frame. A layer of waterproofing material is pre-laid. If the length of the beam is not enough to cover the length of the wall, then it is increased.

  • Check the equality of the diagonals. A discrepancy of a few centimeters can lead to refurbishment of the frame;
  • Secure the corners of the Mauerlat;
  • Attach the Mauerlat using pins or wire. The studs are tightened in two steps, having previously drilled holes for them.

The stability of the roof structure depends on how firmly the Mauerlat is installed.

Therefore, it is necessary to take seriously the attachment of the Mauerlat to the supporting support.

Mauerlat installation

Sill

After the Mauerlat has dried (after 5 days), mark the installation of the plank on the Mauerlat timber: its axis should be equally spaced on each side of the mauerlat beam. The bed is attached to a two-layer waterproofing layer with anchor bolts. The bench should be secured to the wall from the inside with twisted wire or staples. Next, markings are made for installing the rafters.

Installation of a gable roof rafter system

The supporting points of layered rafters are the walls and racks inside the frame. The rafters are mounted with hinged fastening units. When using sliders for fastening, a slight lowering of the roof frame is ensured in the first years of the roof's service.

This installation method is necessary to prevent distortions, since in the first years the building settles a little.

The rafter beams should be secured either by installing them in prepared grooves and strengthening them with fasteners, or by attaching board overlays.

Installation of rafters

Ridge knot

The rafters are connected end-to-end by cutting the edge of the beam so that the angle when connecting the opposite beams corresponds to the angle of the slope. They hammer the rafters under the ridge with nails. An option is possible in which the beams are connected with bolts, nails or pins, that is, with an overlap.

If necessary (if provided for by the project), a cut is made in the rafter beams to attach the ridge beam (purlin).

Ridge knot

Racks

The racks are attached with a short span - in the center, on the sides and in the center - with a wider roof base. The fastening is carried out vertically from the ridge to the inner wall.

Run

Purlin - a connecting beam for securing rafter legs. Attaches with bolts or brackets to the rack.

Filly installation

The final stage of installation of the roofing system is the installation of fillets with a short length of rafter legs for the overhang. To install the canopy, it is necessary to install additional small rafter boards.

Installation of a rafter system with layered rafters

DIY gable roof rafter system: installation with hanging rafters

Rafter system, equipped with hanging rafters, is a triangular structure, where the sides are rafters, and the base is a tie connected to the lower heels of the rafters.

Installation of a hanging type rafter frame can be done without installing a Mauerlat: a board that is fixed to a two-layer waterproofing can replace it.

If the structure has a large span, then struts, headstocks, and crossbars are attached to it.

There are no racks in the hanging system.

Puffs

The tie is the longest beam of the roof frame. To prevent it from sagging, it is necessary to attach headstocks - boards that are attached to the top of the structure on one side, and to the tie on the other. Fastened with bolts or wooden plates. Using threaded clamps, you can adjust the sagging tightening.

Construction of the rafter system

Installation of strut beams

The headstock can be complemented by strutted beams, forming a rhombus, where two struts are the lower sides, and the rafter boards are the upper ones, the upper corner being the ridge. Thus, the struts rest against the headstock, distributing the load.

Strut beams

Rafters

The rafters of a hanging structure are mounted similarly to a layered structure. When installing attics, the tie is installed closer to the ridge, providing more space under the ceiling. In this case, the tightening is secured by cutting and bolting.

ATTENTION!

When installing a hanging system, a prerequisite for installation is the accuracy of calculations and the strength of the rafters and tightening.

The presence of errors leads to displacement of the axes of system elements, which ensures distortion of the structure.

This photo will tell you how to install rafters for a gable roof:

Installation of rafters

Hanging rafters

How to strengthen the rafters of a gable roof

It is necessary to strengthen the rafters of a gable roof when the load calculation is incorrect or frame defects are detected.

Strengthening can be done using:

  • Beams, which are installed to transfer the load to them;
  • Installation of struts with an inclined mount with an emphasis on the bed;
  • Application of double-sided slats;
  • Increasing the cross-section of rafter beams in the place of supports on the strut by applying sheathing from boards with nails or bolts;
  • Wall made of boards, which are attached to the rafters in places where snow accumulation is expected to increase the load-bearing capacity of the rafters.

You can resort to strengthening the mauerlat beam and the base of the rafter beam. Due to increased humidity and reduced ventilation, these parts of the frame are more susceptible to rotting, so when arranging the roof special attention needs to be paid

The roof is a complex and important architectural element of any building. Its construction should be treated with special attention; it must be remembered that installing a rafter system requires considerable experience in performing such work and special tools. Those who are holding carpentry and measuring tools for the first time in their hands should not undertake the creation of a roof - the results of the activity can be very negative.

There are two types of roofs depending on the number and placement of rafter support points, but each developer can, at his own discretion, slightly change the specific design of the rafter system. This takes into account the operating conditions of the building, the purpose of the attic space, the climatic zone of the location, and the technical parameters of lumber and roofing coverings. Of course, the type of rafter system is influenced by the personal experience and preferences of developers.

Before you start making rafters, you should decide on their type, method of fastening and linear dimensions. Only in this case can you be sure of the strength and safety of the structure.

How do various factors influence the parameters of rafters?

Physical factorBrief description of the effect on rafter parameters

The rafters must withstand snow and wind loads. During calculations, you need to take the actual maximum values ​​of snow cover from the tables of building codes and take into account the strength and wind rose. The data allows you to find out the total load on the roof slope depending on its area and angle of inclination. Next, you can determine the size of the rafters, their number and pitch. In this case, a safety factor must be included. The fact is that lumber does not have stable and uniform strength values; too many unforeseen factors influence these indicators. In most cases, 50×150 mm or 50×200 mm boards are used to make rafter legs.

Gable roofs can be layered or hanging. For hanging roofs, you need to make rafters from stronger boards. In this case, the method of fixing the elements to the Mauerlat is taken into account. If a notch is made, then the width of the boards should increase by the amount of the notch. The fact is that the cut in this place automatically reduces the width of the material that takes the load. If you make a cross cut 60 mm long on a 200 mm thick board, then only the remaining width of 140 mm is taken into account. Accordingly, if, when calculating the loads, rafters from 200 mm boards are selected, but during fastening unintended cuts of 60 mm are made, then the width of the blanks for the rafters increases to 260 mm. This remark is made for those who like to abuse various notches and cuts for the persistent areas of the ends of the rafters. Currently, there are many special devices that allow you to firmly fix the rafter in the desired position without sawing.

For residential buildings, rafters must have a safety margin of at least 1.4 of the design values. For non-residential buildings the coefficient is reduced to 1.2. Conclusion - the size of the rafter boards on houses is larger than on garages and other extensions.

Residential attic spaces (attics) must have an insulated roof. The width of the rafters must correspond to the thickness of the insulating layer. At the same time, you need to adjust the pitch between the rafter legs depending on the standard width of the insulation. If in a given climatic zone the optimal thickness of roof insulation is 200 mm, then it is recommended to choose the same width for the rafters. Various extensions of narrow rafter legs during roof insulation are not considered the right solution.

This knowledge will help you make the right decisions both during the manufacture of rafters and during their fixation directly on site. Mistakes in the construction of a rafter system are too expensive; you should not be overly self-confident.

What influences the choicesizes andwaysfasteningsrafters

A very important point. The task of any fixation is to ensure the stability of the connection node, while it can be stationary or have one or more degrees of freedom. This cannot be achieved without knowledge of the loads affecting the rafter legs. Loads can be permanent and temporary, dynamic and static, unidirectional and multidirectional.

  1. Constant vertical forces. They arise due to the impact of roofing and roof insulation materials. Due to the fact that the rafter legs are located at an angle to the vertical force, they are subject to bending and expansion loads. The magnitude of the forces is determined after constructing the diagram; based on the specific bending and expansion forces, the thickness and width of the boards for the rafters is selected. The fastenings must prevent the rafter system from spreading.
  2. Variable vertical forces. Appear in winter, the magnitude depends on the depth of the snow cover.
  3. Lifting wind forces. As a result of gusts of wind, lifting forces are applied to the roof. The dimensions of the rafter legs are not affected; the forces are taken into account only when choosing the type of fixation; it must provide for and support such loads.
  4. Lateral forces. The value depends on the windage of the roof. As a result of gusts of wind, lateral forces act on the rafter system. They increase bending and tearing loads. This feature also needs to be taken into account during the manufacture and installation of rafter legs.

There are options for rigid fastenings of roof trusses; for this, metal plates, corners, screws and nails are used.

Sometimes it is necessary to use floating rafter connections to compensate for changes in the size of wooden houses. For floating connections, special fasteners and bolts are used. The second allows the rafter legs at the top to rotate slightly.

Another example of a loose rafter connection is a sliding one. It is used on wooden log houses and makes it possible to compensate for the natural shrinkage of the house.

What elements are used to increase the stability and load-bearing capacity of rafters

As a result of the correct choice of the rafter system and methods of fixing its elements, the structure must be stable, compensate for natural fluctuations in linear parameters and withstand various loads that arise during operation. To fulfill the conditions during fixation of rafters, additional fixation elements can be used.

Runs

Most often they are mounted in the ridge part of the system; the upper ends of the rafter legs rest on them. To increase stability, cuts may be provided. The top connection is rigid or floating with bolts. On large roofs, purlins can be installed in the middle of the rafters or in other places with critical loads.

VertikAlinen racks

They are installed to strengthen rafters; through the use of racks, elements can be made from thinner lumber. The upper end of the vertical racks rests against the rafters, and the lower end against the beam or ceiling beams.

CornerOpores

Resists bending and expansion forces, universal use. Corner stops can be placed in any places of the rafter leg that cause concerns about strength. Due to such stops, the resistance of rafters to bending and tearing forces significantly increases.

Puffs(crossbars)

The purpose is to keep the rafter legs from spreading; they are used on hanging rafter systems. Most often they are placed in the upper part of the truss; for manufacturing, you can use boards approximately 20-25mm thick. The fact is that they work in tension, lumber holds such forces well. The boards do not work well under compression, quickly sag and lose their original strength.

Knucklehellish

They are used in the upper ridge part of the rafters; due to the use of puffs, the strength of the joint connection is increased. Pulls can be made of wood, plywood, OSB or metal.

Lugs(stops)

They have many specific names. They are ordinary pieces of boards 30–40 cm long and 40–50 mm thick, fixed at the bottom of the rafters. They rest against the mauerlat and prevent the structure from slipping. The use of bosses allows for a rigid connection of elements without sawing down the rafters. We talked about the problems that arise in connection with sawing in this article above.

Prices for various types of timber

Options for connecting the ridge assembly of rafter legs

The ridge is one of the main and most loaded elements of the rafter system. The unit has several connection options; you should choose a specific one depending on the general parameters of the roof.


If the slopes are long, it is better not to use a ridge beam, but instead install two parallel purlins and tie-down crossbars. This design is easier to make, more stable and safe.

For a suspended roof, you should choose the most reliable methods of connecting rafter legs; these systems have a minimum number of additional stops.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Step by stepWithThand of mouthAnew rafters

For the rafter legs, 50×200 mm coniferous boards and first-grade lumber are used. The boards cannot have traces of rot or fungus, significant defects or deep cracks. The use of low-quality lumber for the manufacture of rafter systems is strictly prohibited.

To increase the protection of roof elements from rotting, it is recommended to use fire protection.

Rafter blanks should be impregnated at least twice, and the material should be dry and clean. Processing is done on a level area in dry and clear weather.

You can impregnate with a roller, brush or pneumatic remote control. It is not recommended to use household hand sprayers - they are too time-consuming and difficult. The boards can be raised to the top after the impregnation has completely dried.

Our gable roof has a ridge girder; the vertical supports rest against a beam located on the load-bearing wall in the middle of the building.

Practical advice. If the house is quite tall and the boards are heavy, then it is recommended to make a simple device to protect the window openings from damage. To do this, two boards are knocked together in the form of a square; the length and width are selected taking into account the parameters of the opening. The device is installed on the window sill, and the rafter boards do not damage the foam blocks during lifting.

Prices for fire-bioprotective impregnations

Preparatory operations

The production of rafters begins with preparatory operations.

Step 1. Raise rafter boards into the attic. For convenience, place them evenly along the length of the building, place one end on the mauerlat, and the other on the girder. First you need to install the outer rafters on both sides of the roof of the house, stretch a thread between them and install and align all the remaining ones along it.

Step 2. Check the position of the ridge run again. It should be located exactly in the middle of the roof. Its displacement by 1–2 centimeters will not affect the strength of the roof as a whole, but will somewhat complicate the manufacture of rafters and the laying of roofing materials. In addition, an experienced builder may notice a discrepancy in the sizes of the slopes and, accordingly, the asymmetry of the roof. It is recommended to ensure that the ridge run is located along the line of symmetry, unless this is associated with great difficulties. The final decision is made by the foreman on site and depends on the magnitude of the displacement and the amount of work to correct the error.

How to align a run?

  1. Attach a sheathing board to the mauerlat; it is lighter and easier to lift and fix. The second end should lie on the purlin. The board is nailed to the mauerlat with an ordinary smooth nail or screwed with a self-tapping screw.
  2. Climb to the top of the purlin and use a tape measure to check the distance from the edge of the purlin to the mauerlats installed on opposite walls. Work very carefully, it is advisable to use insurance. Unfortunately, in practice, few people follow safety rules, but in vain. Falls from height can cause very serious injuries.
  3. Center the purlin and secure the board. To increase rigidity, fix the same board on the other side of the purlin.

Now everything is ready, you can begin to manufacture and install the rafters.

Installationrafter legs

If you work alone, then you need to screw a piece of lath to the purlin at the place where the first rafter is fixed. The rafter board will be temporarily fixed to it to prevent it from sliding down.

And at this time, you can carry out work on the manufacture and preparation for connecting the upper part of the rafters.

Step 1. Lift and place the rafter board in place, using a clamp, clamp it to the previously attached batten.

Step 2. Draw lines to cut out the stop pad. This is done in two stages. First, draw a horizontal line. To do this, press the rail, square or other flat object tightly against the horizontal surface of the purlin.

Second, draw a vertical line. Now the ruler or square should be pressed against the side surface of the purlin.

Important. The width of the ruler should be no more than 2–3 cm, there is no need to make deep cuts and significantly reduce the width of the rafter leg, it loses its maximum design strength.

Make the same markings at the bottom of the rafters. Only now the ruler needs to be pressed against the surfaces of the Mauerlat.

Step 3. Remove the board and carefully cut out the seats. You can work with a hacksaw or an electric circular hand saw.

Practical advice. If the cuts are made with an electric circular saw, then it is better to cut in two steps. First cut to the mark, then turn the board over and cut again to the mark. Use a hammer to knock out the cut piece, and remove the remaining protrusion with a chisel or chisel. There is no need to go beyond the line with the saw and try to cut off the lip in one go. This method increases the cut by 3–5 cm, depending on the diameter of the disk, which significantly reduces the load-bearing performance of the rafters.

Step 4. Place the prepared rafter in place and check that it is made correctly. Perform the same operations with the second leg of the truss.

Step 5. Place the rafters with emphasis on the mauerlat and purlin, tighten them with a clamp at the top. Find the middle of the purlin and transfer the line to the rafters, use a level or a construction square (only when the plane of the purlin is strictly horizontal).

Step 6. Saw two rafters along a vertical line at the same time. The boards must be tightly clamped with a clamp. Pay maximum attention to ensure that the saw blade is perpendicular to the plane of the rafters. If you saw it obliquely, the ridge joint will not fit tightly, and this reduces the stability of the rafter system and is considered an obvious construction defect.

If there is a lack of practical experience in performing such work, the first leg may have a gap in the ridge part; if it is within 1–2 mm, then there is nothing to worry about. If it is more than 4 millimeters, then the element needs to be corrected. Look at which planes of the thrust pads do not allow the top cut to fit tightly. Approximately indicate the size of the additional cut. Remove the rafters and remove any interfering protrusions. Check the connection again, if gaps remain, repeat the operation. As practice shows, experience appears on the second or third rafter and no further corrections need to be made.

Step 8 Securely fasten the rafter legs in the correct places. To do this, it is recommended to use metal plates and corners; working with them is simple and easy; their strength fully meets the requirements for the rafter system.

For each pair of rafters you will need one large reshaped plate to connect the ridge assembly, two 50x50mm corners for fixing to the purlin and two 60x80mm corners for screwing to the Mauerlat. The thickness of the metal is at least two millimeters.

In the same way, install the outer rafters on the other side of the house, stretch the threads between them. One at the top and bottom and one in the middle. To prevent them from interfering during the manufacture of rafters, make a gap of about one centimeter between the thread and the plane.

Real professionals never make one rafter in the attic of a house. This algorithm of work significantly increases construction time, complicates the process itself and makes it unsafe. Working with electric tools on unsuitable sites is very dangerous; injuries from them are severe and often cause disability.

If the house is built with high quality and strictly adheres to the dimensions and rules, then the rafter legs are made according to one template on the ground. The finished elements are assembled on the roof. This technology increases labor productivity by 3–5 times, while at the same time improving the quality of the rafter system, it is more reliable and durable. Of course, the salaries of builders also increase proportionally. They work from the mine and receive money not for the time spent in the attic, but for the assembled roof.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - Manufacturing and installation of rafters on a gable roof

Photo
In order for the roof to serve as long as possible and fully fulfill all the responsibilities assigned to it, it is necessary, among other things, to correctly assemble the rafter system. You can do this yourself. However, before starting the main stage of work, it is necessary to decide on the type of roof and the rafter system itself, select suitable and high-quality material, and also draw up a plan according to which the rafter system will be built.

Types of roof truss systems.

The type of system depends on the shape of the roof of the house. At the design stage, the features of the entire system and the roof structure in particular should be taken into account. After preparing and securing the individual elements, the rafter system is installed directly. This work involves performing many technological steps. By doing everything according to the instructions, you will not encounter any significant problems, and the finished rafter system for the roof of your house will be of the highest quality.

Drawing up a rafter system project

When drawing up a project, it is necessary to take into account the type of roof of the house. An individual rafter system is prepared for each type of roof. For example, the rafter system for an attic roof will be completely different from the system for a hip roof. Therefore, when performing work independently, it is necessary to take these factors into account.

However, there are a number of requirements that are universal for any type of roof. When designing the rafter system and the roof itself, consider the following important points:

Scheme of the hip roof rafter system.

  1. If the roof will be insulated, then all installation work must be thought out so that it can be completed as conveniently, easily and quickly as possible.
  2. When installing insulation, you need to think about the further arrangement of the rafter legs.
  3. It is important to take into account the weight of the roof structure and calculate the power of the rafter leg in accordance with this parameter.

The rafter system must be assembled from high-quality and durable wood. It is important that the preparation, drying and storage of material is carried out in accordance with the rules. It is best to use resin beams. Resin is a natural antiseptic, so the wood will be under additional protection, and the finished rafter system will last as long as possible.

If the roof of your house is hip, the rafters should have a different section. The strongest rafters should be installed where several beams are connected. When choosing material for valley rafters, you need to be especially careful. The joint between planes quite often becomes one of the main problem areas. Such areas are characterized by the least strength in the entire system and can leak.

Preparing timber before work

Rafter attachment points.

To build a reliable rafter system, you need to use a fairly thick beam. Suitable material with a cross section of 10x20 cm, 10x10 cm, 20x20 cm, etc. Where the rafters must have particularly high strength, for example, if the design provides for slanted rafters, the beams must be spliced. It is best to use timber with a length of 400-600 cm. Already aged timber is best suited for rafters. This ensures that the wood does not change in size after the roof is built.

Before you start installing rafters and waterproofing, be sure to consider issues such as protecting the wood from fire and pests. First, the timber should be impregnated with antipyretics. Such treatment leads to a decrease in the flammability of wood. Secondly, the material is necessarily treated with antiseptic compounds, which will prevent its rotting.

These measures must be taken long before the final installation of the rafter system. This way you can sequentially process each element of the structure, paying special attention to those that may be damaged in the future. Pay special attention to the joints. It is most convenient to apply protective compounds with a brush. Use a fairly wide, long-haired tool. Don't forget about personal protection. Be sure to wear gloves, a respirator, and safety glasses.

It is recommended to apply protective compounds in a double layer. The wood must dry before processing. Of course, you don’t have to wait for it to dry completely. But if you want the material to soak in as well as possible and last as long as possible, take your time and let it dry completely before applying the next layer. You can begin installing the roof truss system only after the protective agents are well absorbed and the material is completely dry.

System diagrams for gable roofs.

In the process of performing this work, you will need several simple tools, working with which does not require special skills and training, namely:

  1. Axe.
  2. Hammer.
  3. Chainsaw or wood saw.
  4. Yardstick.
  5. Building level.
  6. Electric drill.
  7. Metal staples from 20 cm.
  8. Nails 8-20 cm long.
  9. Nail puller.
  10. Pencil.

Step-by-step instructions for installing rafters

The procedure for installing a rafter system for a house with your own hands is as follows. First, the Mauerlat is laid. It is a beam that serves as the basis for the rafter system. Lay the Mauerlat on top of the walls around the perimeter of the building. Special fastenings are used. They must be installed in increments of up to 1-1.2 m. To further increase the moisture-proof properties, roofing material must be placed under the Mauerlat. You can use other waterproofing materials that are convenient for you.

The timber is laid next to the studs. Places for creating holes are marked. After all the necessary holes have been drilled, the studs should be threaded into the Mauerlat. This must be done in such a way that the pins protrude slightly. There is no need to make a large protrusion; a few millimeters will be enough. The Mauerlat is additionally secured with washers and nuts. After completing the fixation of the Mauerlat, you can proceed to the next stage of work, in which you will have to fasten the rafters with the mounted Mauerlat.

Scheme of hanging rafter systems with raised tension.

The rafter leg is installed in a suitable position and fixed to the Mauerlat. For this, galvanized steel brackets are used. Additionally, prepare mounting brackets and screws.

The bracket will prevent the rafters located along the mauerlat from moving. The bracket is also designed to prevent their displacement. Using the same principle, using brackets, rafters are installed to the ridge part of the roof. For additional strengthening and fastening of the ridge part of the roof, you can use a lath. It should be connected to the opposite rafters in the form of the letter “A”.

For the most reliable connection of rafters to each other, you can also use studs. Studs of at least 8 mm are suitable for this work, if ondulin and other lightweight roofing materials are used for the roof. If you choose ceramic tiles and other heavy materials, you should use longer studs, from 10-12 mm.

To prevent the rafters from moving, it is better to use 2 studs at once per fastening point.

In some cases, it becomes necessary to lengthen the beam. If such a situation arises, connect the beams with an overlap, using high-strength studs with a diameter of at least 1 cm.

Recommendations for fastening the rafter system with the Mauerlat

Scheme of fastening the rafters to the Mauerlat.

Sometimes situations arise when the length of the rafters is not enough. This usually happens when constructing a T-shaped roof. But it can also happen under other circumstances.

In such cases, in order to prevent or even completely eliminate the sagging of the roofing along its length under its own weight or the weight of atmospheric precipitation, it is necessary to thoroughly work on strengthening the roof. It’s better to do everything right away and “conscientiously.” The intention to fix defects “sometime later” in the future can lead to problems that will require a much more significant investment of time, money and effort.

To resolve this problem, you can resort to one of two available methods. In accordance with the first of them, a purlin is installed in the middle of the rafter system, thanks to which the load will be evenly distributed. Or you can resort to another method. In accordance with it, additional transverse beams are installed and spacers are installed. Thanks to such a system, all incoming load will be distributed quite efficiently.

The second method of load distribution is more practical and efficient. This is what is most often used in the construction of mansard roofs.

After completing the installation work, all rafters on the roof should be trimmed. Trim them to the level of the eaves. After this, if necessary, it will be possible to carry out waterproofing work.

Thus, there are no special problems in independently arranging the rafter system. By doing everything yourself, you get a great experience and save a lot of money on the services of third-party craftsmen. You just need to follow the instructions in everything, strictly follow the established requirements and rules, and you will definitely be able to create a durable and reliable rafter system. Good luck!

The rafter system is the supporting load-bearing frame for the roof. That is why it must be reliable, since the durability of the entire structure directly depends on the quality of the material from which the system elements are made, and the professionalism of its assembly.

It is quite possible to manufacture and install it if you have a craftsman nearby who has dealt with similar work more than once. Without experience in this work and a reliable adviser, it is dangerous to undertake it yourself - it is better to entrust this undertaking to a team of qualified craftsmen. However, if you still decide to try your hand, then you need to approach all the details of the system with all responsibility and caution, since the work is not only difficult, but also quite dangerous.

Requirements for rafters

In order for the entire roof system of the house to serve for a long time, dried coniferous wood is selected for the manufacture of its elements. For the rafters you need a beam with a size of 100÷150 × 50÷60 mm.

Coniferous wood is light in weight, which is beneficial for the entire construction of the house, since a heavy rafter system, creating a lot of pressure on the walls, can lead to their damage and destruction.

Another advantage of coniferous material for constructing a roofing base is the high percentage of foliage in its structure, which means an increased ability to withstand atmospheric moisture.


To manufacture elements of the rafter system, it must meet certain requirements that directly affect the durability of the entire structure:

  • The wood for installing the rafter system must be seasoned, which will eliminate the risk of its deformation in the structure.
  • Wood moisture content should be no more than 2-2.5%.
  • If a hanging rafter system is being installed, then for the tie-downs and the rafters themselves, be sure to use only first-grade wood.
  • When constructing a layered system, the second grade of material is also suitable.
  • For supporting elements - racks and struts, you can use a third grade of wood, however, trying to choose raw materials with a minimum number of knots.
  • The exact thickness of the blanks is selected depending on the weight of the selected roofing material and the weather conditions in the given region. This is especially true for the maximum thickness of snow cover in winter. For example, for the middle zone of Russian regions, it is necessary to calculate the load per 1 kv.m. roofs 180÷200 kg.
  • In addition, the parameters of the rafter legs depend on the overall dimensions of the rafter system and its slope.
  • Before installing the system, the wood must undergo antifungal and fireproofing treatment.

When installing the structure, you need to know and types of loads that the entire roof system is subjected - they are also taken into account when choosing rafter parameters and installing the structure.

  • Temporary loads are the weight of a person during roof repair work, snow cover in winter and the strength of wind gusts.
  • this is the weight of roofing, insulation and insulation materials.
  • Special types of loads include seismic impact if the structure is located in earthquake-prone regions.

General design of the rafter system

The most widespread The rafter system has the shape of a triangle and is intended for arrangement. It includes several triangular elements consisting of two rafter legs and auxiliary supports and ties. Each such triangular structure is called a rafter. The triangular elements of the system are located at a certain distance from each other, and most often it ranges from 50 to 80 cm.


This form has become traditional, as it creates better rigidity and reliability of the structure. It can end at the level of the walls or be continued to install overhangs, which can be 40 centimeters or more in length. Sometimes rafters ending on the walls are extended with additional bars - “fillies”.

So, as mentioned above, the rafters are one triangular section, including:


  • Two rafter legs connected on a ridge beam, or without its use, directly to one another.
  • Struts or rafter legs are spacers that support the rafter leg and relieve the load placed on it. They rest against the bed and are secured to it.
  • Racks or vertical supports consisting of bars. They, like the spacers, support the rafter leg, but closer to the center of the triangle. The stand is installed on a bench.
  • A crossbar is a board that holds two rafter legs together.
  • The scrum is two crossbars attached to both sides of the rafter leg. It performs the same task as the crossbar - it gives rigidity to the structure.
  • Headstocks are a vertical block that is supporting and is installed in the middle of the triangle, resting against the floor beam and supporting the ridge. This part is used in hanging rafter systems.
  • Purlin - it connects individual rafters into a common system. They are located parallel to the wall.
  • Ties are floor beams that connect the rafter legs, completing the rafter triangle.
  • - a powerful beam installed at the upper end of the wall structure, to which elements of the rafter system are subsequently attached.

There are three types of rafter systems - layered, hanging and combined, i.e. including elements of both one and the other.

Hanging system

The hanging rafter system is used to cover buildings without internal main walls. The rafter legs are laid on a mauerlat fixed to the load-bearing walls.


Since such a system experiences a large load, which is transferred to the load-bearing walls, the following additional elements are used to relieve this stress:

  • A tie that simultaneously acts as a floor beam. It can be used for flights up to 6 meters. If the span is larger, then it is raised higher along the rafter leg, and in the lower part the triangle is also closed with a floor beam.
  • The headstock supporting the ridge is required if the span between the load-bearing walls is more than eight meters.
  • Struts extending from the headstock at an angle and supporting the rafter legs.
  • Help that strengthens the rafter leg.
  • A ridge beam is required in this system.

All elements are fastened together with metal corners, brackets or screwed together.

Layered system

The layered system is more stable and reliable, thanks to additional supports in the form of permanent partitions inside the building. Their presence makes it possible to create an additional room in the attic.

When making such a decision, the racks in the rafter system are installed closer to the load-bearing walls, freeing up space.

In this system, the rafter legs are installed on a mauerlat, which is secured to the side load-bearing walls. To ensure reliable installation, special grooves are cut into the rafter legs, and the elements are fastened together with brackets.


A ridge beam in this system is desirable if there is a large span between the load-bearing walls, and it is planned to arrange a living space in the attic. The same applies to the ties, which in this case are fixed at the ceiling level of the future room.

You also need to know that the Mauerlat must be very securely fastened to the wall with pins going 350÷400 mm deep into the wall, since it bears a large weight and dynamic load from the entire rafter system.


If it is assumed that the main walls of the building may shrink slightly, then the lower parts of the rafters are attached to the Mauerlat with sliding fasteners, allowing the element to take the desired position without causing harm to either the walls or the entire rafter system.

Video: installation of a gable roof rafter system

Prices for various types of timber

Installation of truss structure

Having prepared the suitable material and having a design for the roof structure, you can begin its installation.

Gable roof


On load-bearing walls, mauerlat bars are fixed to a pre-laid waterproofing material - roofing felt, and the installation of rafters is marked on them. It is very important to mark the two sides of the installation equally, otherwise the rafters will be skewed.

  • The first rafters are adjusted and rigidly fastened directly at height, so as not to make mistakes in fastenings and in selections for installation on.
  • Then, they are lowered down, and all other rafters are made according to the first sample. On the ground it is much easier and safer to fit all structural elements to each other and make reliable fastenings.
  • When sawing timber for rafters, you need to leave a small margin, i.e. make them a little longer than required so that you can adjust them to fit.
  • To make it easier to navigate, when setting up the first rafters, take a beam whose length is equal to the distance between the outer edges of the walls - this will be the base or hypotenuse of the future triangle.
  • The middle of the block is determined, and a perpendicular board is temporarily nailed to it, having a height from the front wall of the structure to ridge - peaks equilateral triangle.
  • Then they are laid out and secured sides - legs triangle, they are also rafter legs.

  • If a hanging rafter system is chosen, then the ties are immediately marked and secured.
  • If it is intended to install additional fasteners, then they are fixed in place after installing the rafters on the roof.
  • Next, the first rafters are first raised and temporarily installed. On each of them, places are marked where rectangular selections will be made to secure them to the Mauerlat.
  • Then, the rafters are lowered down again, and grooves having a right angle are cut out on them.

  • Using the first pair, taking it as a sample, the same grooves are measured and cut out on the remaining rafters.
  • Next, two triangles are climbed onto the walls, which are installed at the beginning and end of the future. If a ridge beam is provided, then both installed parts are immediately connected with it.

Video: how rafters are attached to the Mauerlat

  • Along each slope, cords are stretched between the already mounted rafters, which will also serve as guides for aligning the remaining parts of the structure.
  • The first installed rafters are immediately reinforced with racks, struts and other elements of the system that provide rigidity and reliability of the structure.
  • Next, the remaining rafter pairs are raised and installed.
  • If necessary, they are connected to each other by purlins and beds.
  • When installing a rafter system, all its elements are fixed temporarily, since some of them may have to be adjusted and reinstalled later. They are firmly attached only after the entire system has been aligned. Then angles, brackets, and, if necessary, sliding elements are used for fastenings. Self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, staples and studs are used at various joints.

If necessary, the rafters can be extended with “fillies”
  • After the system is basically installed, the rafters can be “filled” on the overhangs - this is done so that the walls of the building are as well protected as possible from moisture getting on them during rain.
  • The next stage of work is the installation of lathing on top of the rafters. The thickness and width of the boards for this part of the structure are selected taking into account the installation technology of the selected roofing material - this will depend on the width, weight and length of its sheets.

Video: installation of a gable roof rafter system

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Single slope systems

It is generally accepted that a lean-to system is used only when constructing roofs for garages, sheds, gazebos and other non-residential buildings, but this is not at all true. Such a roof also serves well as a roof for residential buildings, and you can even arrange an additional warm room under it if you correctly calculate the slope of the structure.


A shed system can be considered as half of a gable roof, but with some deviations. For example, if when installing a gable roof, the gable part is the width of the building, then with a shed roof it is its length.


The pediment can be raised from brick or wooden beams and boards. Its height will depend on the selected roof slope. The roof gable is raised high if an additional room is built underneath.

Rafters in this system are easier to lay, but if the distance between the walls is large enough, then it is still necessary to install additional supporting elements for rigidity.

To correctly determine the desired slope angle, you need to rely on the following factors:

  • Snow depth in winter and average precipitation in other seasons.
  • The weight of the roofing covering that is planned to cover the rafter system.
  • Temporary loads, in the form of gusts of wind.

The angle of this type of roof can vary from 5 to 45, and sometimes there are buildings with an angle of even 60 degrees.

Installation of the single-slope option is carried out on site, i.e. at a height, since the gable and rear walls of the building serve as supports for the rafters.

If the roof slope in a one-story mansion is not too large, then the rafters can be extended forward from the front or rear side of the house. This is done in order to arrange a veranda or terrace under the roof.

Attic systems


The most complex to implement are mansard roof systems.

If the project immediately includes making the attic of the house residential, then you can choose one of two roof designs. The choice will depend on the desired attic area and ceiling height. It can be a gable roof with a high ridge or a broken mansard roof.

Gable roof

In order to arrange an additional room under a gable roof, the space must be free from various additional fastenings. Therefore, you will have to make do with a minimum number of them.


In this design, racks and tie rods will be mandatory - they will also perform the functions of the lathing onto which the finishing material of the walls and ceiling of the room being created will be attached.


But in this case, it is very important to use massive beams for the floor beams, which will easily support the weight of the rafter system with insulation and roofing material, plus the entire load given by the pieces of furniture that will be installed in the room. In addition, it is necessary to install the floor beams at a short distance from each other, which should not exceed 50 ÷ 60 cm, but in order for the walls of the building to withstand the entire load without problems, they must be quite massive and strong.

Installation of the system takes place in the same sequence as a gable roof.

Attic “broken” structure

The mansard roof structure of a house is more complex than a conventional gable roof, but its advantage is that the living space resulting from its installation will be much larger and the ceiling will be higher.


Approximate diagram of an attic “broken” system

This type of roof is called broken, since the system consists of two parts, in each of which the rafters are located at a different angle.

The side rafters can be located at an angle of 30 or 45 degrees from the vertical - this is the most common option for their installation.

The top is fixed at an angle that can vary from 5 to 30 degrees from the horizon.

Both rafter systems can be used in an attic structure. It is preferable to arrange the lower rafters using a layered system, but if the building does not have permanent partitions, then a hanging system can also be used. In the latter case, the attic floor beams, as well as the rafters, should be installed at a distance of no more than 50-60 cm from each other. It should be noted that the walls must be well reinforced, since the load on them will be quite serious, much more significant than when installing a gable roof.

  • The construction of the lower rafter system begins with the installation of racks, secured with strapping at the top and at the bottom with floor beams. The distance between the rack systems will be the width of the room, and their height determines the height of the room.

Beginning of installation - installation of two rows of racks
  • This frame will determine the placement of the remaining elements of the system.
  • Next, you need to find the middle of the distance between the rows of racks, and this will determine location in the upper part of the attic. A vertical beam is installed in this place, the same height as the rack system.

  • Then, the side rafters are installed and secured to the rack frame and beam overlap, thus creating triangles in which the stand and beam the overlaps form a right angle.
  • When all the side elements are installed, begin installation of floor beams; they are also attached to the frame bar and the end of the side rafter. The diagram of this bundle is shown in the first figure in this section.
  • Next, the floor beams are connected to each other by a horizontal rail, which is placed on top of them, in the middle of the structure.
  • Ridge rafters are installed and supported by struts. They are attached to the rail connecting the floor beams.

  • On a ridge, the rafter legs can be fixed to a ridge board or connected to each other with a metal or wooden overlay
  • Sometimes, for structural rigidity, a supporting headstock is installed between the ridge and the floor beam.

  • The gable walls with openings for windows are lathed. If the entrance is from the street, then on one of the gables, in addition, there will be an opening for a door.

  • Further, if necessary, the entire rafter system is sheathed with sheathing or plywood if a soft roof, for example, flexible tiles, is chosen as the roofing material.

Video: example of installation of a roof truss system

It is not at all necessary to equip the rafter system Just, and you can’t cope with this work alone - you will need at least two assistants. It is desirable that at least one of the invited craftsmen have some experience in this field of construction.

Design features of a gable roof
What is the difference between layered and hanging rafter systems?
The process of installing a gable roof with your own hands
Preparatory stage
Mauerlat installation
Installation of a hanging rafter system
Methods for fixing hanging rafters to the Mauerlat
How to install layered rafters
How to make a sheathing correctly

Roof installation is a fairly complex construction process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to know how to correctly connect the elements, what the length of the rafters should be, at what angle they should be tilted and, most importantly, what materials the roof is assembled from. Without special knowledge and skills, making a complex roof will be problematic. In this case, you can choose the best option - a gable roof with your own hands.

A gable roof is based on a triangle, which gives it rigidity. It contains the following elements:

  • Mauerlat- These are beams laid directly on the outer walls along the entire perimeter of the house. Fastening of these elements is most often done using anchor bolts. The recommended material for the manufacture of elements is coniferous wood. The cross-section of the beams has the shape of a square with sides of 100*100 mm or 150*150 mm. It is on the Mauerlat that the rafters rest, and the load from the entire system is transferred to the external walls.
  • Sill- this is a beam of a certain length into which the racks rest. It is laid in the direction of the internal load-bearing wall. The element is used when arranging the roof of large houses.
  • Struts- these are elements made from small bars. They are installed at an angle between the post and the rafters. This arrangement helps strengthen the rafters and increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof.
  • Racks- these are roof elements located vertically. Through this element the load from the ridge beam is transferred to the walls. The racks are located between the rafters.
  • Puffs They are beams that connect the rafters at the bottom. This element is the base of the truss triangle. Like struts, these beams make trusses stronger and more resistant to various loads.
  • Rafter legs They are boards of a certain length, having a cross-section of 5*15 cm or 10*15 cm. The elements are connected to each other at an angle, forming the vertex of a triangle. Two connected rafter legs are called a truss. The number of such structures is determined by the length of the house. In this case, the distance between the farms can be no more than 1.2 meters and no less than 0.6 meters. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, the total weight of the roof, wind and snow load should be taken into account.
  • Horse is located at the highest point of the roof and is a beam that serves as a connection for the slopes. This element is supported from below by vertical posts, and the ends of the rafters are attached to it from the sides. In some cases, instead of timber, two boards are used, connected at a certain angle and nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides.

A do-it-yourself gable roof involves making sheathing from boards or timber, which are nailed onto the rafters in a perpendicular direction. Depending on the roofing material, the sheathing can be continuous or with gaps.

What is the difference between layered and hanging rafter systems?

Before assembling a gable roof, you need to know some features of its structure. A hanging rafter system is installed when the house is small in size and there is no internal load-bearing wall. In this case, the rafters are connected at a certain angle, making appropriate cuts at their ends; nails are used for connection.

When installing such a rafter system, the posts and ridge are not made, and the support of the lower ends of the rafters falls on the external load-bearing walls. To make the structure more durable, the top tightening should be located no further than 0.5 meters from the top. Sometimes floor beams are used as tie-downs. The absence of racks frees up the attic space, which allows it to be used for arranging the attic floor.

If the house has an internal load-bearing wall, then it is more effective to use a layered rafter system. In this case, the bed is laid, support posts are fixed on it, onto which the ridge is nailed. This method is considered simpler and more financially profitable. When designing ceilings at different levels, the studs can be replaced with a brick wall, which will divide the attic space into two parts.

The process of installing a gable roof with your own hands

To answer the question of how to properly make a gable roof with your own hands, you need to follow the sequence of actions.

Installation of a roof of this type involves working according to the following plan:

  • Preparatory stage.
  • Fixing the Mauerlat.
  • Truss assembly.
  • Installation of trusses on floors.
  • Skate device.
  • Stuffing the sheathing.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, you should prepare a set of necessary tools and materials:

  • Hammer and hacksaw.
  • Square and level.
  • Fastening elements.
  • Boards, beams and roofing felt.

All wooden materials should be treated with antiseptic solutions and fire retardants and dried thoroughly.

Mauerlat installation

In houses made of wooden logs or timber, the role of the mauerlat is played by the top row of the frame, this makes the process simpler. A groove is cut out on the inside of the log into which the rafter leg is installed.

In brick or block houses, the Mauerlat is laid as follows:

  • When laying the last rows, threaded metal studs are installed in the masonry. They should be located around the entire perimeter of the house at a distance of about 1.5 meters from each other.
  • The upper part of the walls is covered with roofing felt in several layers, piercing it with studs.
  • Holes are drilled in the beams in accordance with the location of the studs.
  • Lay the beams, putting them on the studs. At this stage, it is important to ensure that the beams are laid exactly horizontally and that the opposing elements are parallel to each other.
  • The nuts are tightened on the studs, pressing the Mauerlat. Read also: “How to install the Mauerlat for a gable roof - installation options, mounting procedure.”

The result of this stage should be a rectangle of the correct shape, located on the same horizontal line. This design makes the structure more stable and facilitates subsequent work. The completion of the work is cutting out the grooves in accordance with the size of the rafters.

Installation of a hanging rafter system

Suspended rafter system trusses are easier to assemble on the ground. To do this, a drawing is drawn up, the length of the rafters and the angle at which they will connect are calculated. In most cases, the roof slope is 40 degrees; if the building is located in an open area, then this value is reduced to 20 degrees. The rafter connection angle is calculated by doubling the roof slope angle. Read also: “How to make a gable roof with your own hands - from rafters to laying the roofing.”

The length of the rafters is determined by the distance between the external load-bearing walls and the angle of connection of the rafter legs. The optimal length is considered to be 4-6 meters, taking into account the eaves overhang of 50-60 cm. These parameters should be taken into account when solving the problem of how to make a large roof.

At the top, the rafters are fastened in different ways: end-to-end, overlapping or “in the paw” with grooves cut out. The rafters are fixed with bolts or using metal plates. A tightening is mounted a little lower and the finished truss structure is lifted to the installation site.

First, trusses are installed along the edges, checking their verticality using a plumb line. At the same time, the amount of overhang is adjusted. The rafters are attached to the mauerlat using bolts or steel plates. Sometimes temporary struts are used to support the truss during installation. When inserting the remaining rafters, maintain the same distance between them. After installing and fixing all the trusses on both sides of the upper slope, I nail boards with a section of 5*15 cm.

Methods for fixing hanging rafters to the Mauerlat

Hanging rafters can be attached to the Mauerlat in several ways:

  • A groove is cut out on the rafters, and a metal pin is driven into the wall at a distance of 15 cm from the top edge. The rafter is placed on the mauerlat, tied with wire and pulled to the wall. The wire is wrapped around the pin.
  • The second method involves laying out a brick stepped cornice. The Mauerlat is laid along the inner edge of the wall and a groove is made in it for the rafter leg.
  • When using the third option, the rafters rest against the floor beams, which extend beyond the perimeter of the house up to half a meter. The beams are cut at an angle and secured with bolts. Using this method, you assemble a roof without a Mauerlat with your own hands.

How to install layered rafters

Layered rafters are installed in the following order:

  • The load-bearing wall, located in the center of the house, is covered with waterproofing material.
  • A bench is laid on top and secured with bolts or metal brackets.
  • Racks made of beams with a cross section of 10*10 cm are placed on the bench.
  • Purlins are nailed on top of the racks in a horizontal direction, strengthening the structure with temporary spacers.
  • Install the rafters and fix them.

After installing the main structural elements, the wooden surfaces are treated with fire retardants.

How to make a sheathing correctly

Before laying the sheathing, the rafters are covered with a layer of waterproofing, protecting it from getting wet. Waterproofing is laid in a horizontal direction, starting from the eaves and going up. The strips are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, the joints are sealed with tape.

There must be a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the waterproofing; for this, slats with a thickness of no more than 4 cm must be placed on each rafter leg.

Now you can sheathe the rafter system. The sheathing can be made from timber 5*5 cm or boards having a thickness of no more than 4 cm and a width of more than 10 cm. The sheathing begins from the bottom of the rafters, maintaining a certain step.

After installation, the sheathing begins to cover the gables and overhangs. Depending on the construction budget and the desire of the homeowner, you can make a gable roof with your own hands with gables made of plastic, corrugated sheets or wooden boards. The sheathing is attached to the sides of the rafter using nails or self-tapping screws. Overhangs can be hemmed with all kinds of materials.

When installing ceiling communication elements and operation, it should be installed in whole or in part in the shortest possible roof clusters, since the farmer must be attached to pre-installed models and not be accelerated by hibernating cranes. Links are established in different ways. It is most convenient to install programs with the main assembly mechanism.

For this purpose, the crane is equipped with a beak.

How to Make a Roof Roof Yourself - Step by Step Guide

To make better use of the crane's lifting capacity, insert it into bundles, fold it in one place, and pull it out by hand from the platforms. However, when installing heavy I-beam brackets and channel strips, large sections must be installed separately, allowing minimal taps to be removed for additional operations—slurries, chains, and pre-processing; Use a group cutter for crushing.

If the main crane cannot be secured or is ineffective (for example in high-rise buildings), the best way to install the unit is to use a rigid roof crane moving around the load-bearing structures. In this case, the first pair of clusters must first be fixed, all leaks and connections between them must be established, and then one or two roof taps must be installed on the roof depending on the distance from the graves.

After installing the main mechanism of the next truss, the roof crane is first lifted with 3-4 strokes, which are necessary to ensure the stability of the truss and its raster, and then all other connections are installed and launched on the mounted panel.

The roof crane maintains distance between rides and steps. During operation, the crane frame is installed on a line with round steel clamps. A less common method of fixing the track is using portable carriers of gas pipes or other light profiles. The carriers are equipped with pulleys and are attached to the top hammer strap above the knots. To boost each run, place two brackets, one on each truss.

The walkway is lifted with lightweight electric or hand winches, attaching it to the two ends using separate cables passed through pulleys attached to the bracket heads. When you lift one end of the line, it moves and the other is raised higher so it doesn't touch the corners of the corners. After each lift, the brackets are transferred manually to the next nodes to set the next run.

Interesting fact: materials that completely imitate wood have recently appeared on the domestic construction market, but they have a big advantage in comparison.

High-quality interior doors lined with veneer are an excellent example of products made from a modern, reliable and durable material.

Structural schemes for installing a thermal insulation layer based on polystyrene foam in mansard roofs

All methods of thermal insulation of pitched roofs with polystyrene foam boards make it possible to avoid “cold bridges” along rafter structures and achieve high uniformity of the thermal insulation layer.

Insulation over rafters. Open rafters.

In order to prevent the formation of “cold bridges”, the insulating layer should not be interrupted. This can be achieved by laying insulation over the rafters, but requires the use of a rigid insulating material with high strength that can withstand loads such as the weight of the roof, snow, etc.

n. Polystyrene foam boards are ideal for this. They have a tongue-and-groove or stepped joint on all sides and provide a continuous layer of insulation without forming a thermal bridge.

Extruded polystyrene foam is impervious to moisture, so protection from rainwater or snow is not required. The load-bearing capacity of polystyrene foam boards is such that it can withstand loads transmitted from the roof through longitudinal wooden slats.

After laying the insulation, the entire roof is thermally insulated, protected from stresses caused by extreme temperatures, and the continuity of the surface of the joined rigid thermal insulation boards increases the stability of the roof against horizontal loads (Fig. 127). Thermal insulation material can be installed in any weather conditions.

With this method of insulation, the rafters remain indoors and are an element of the interior.

A continuous flooring of boards or plywood is laid on them, which acts as the inner lining of the attic ceiling. A polymer-bitumen waterproofing membrane laid over board sheathing acts as a waterproofing underlayment as well as a vapor barrier layer and is placed under the insulation on its warm side.

Another option is to install a diffusion waterproofing membrane, such as Tyvek, directly over the insulation.

An additional vapor barrier can be installed under the insulation, further increasing the tightness, although calculations of possible condensation usually do not require this.

Expanded polystyrene insulation is laid with ligation of seams in the manner of brickwork with a tight connection, starting from the eaves, where they rest against a wooden batten, the height of which is equal to the thickness of the thermal insulation.

The gaps between the heat-insulating boards and the connecting elements of the structure are filled with polyurethane foam (spray foam) using the spraying method.

During installation, the insulation is secured with special fixing nails or screws through longitudinal wooden slats and boarding to the rafters. The slats should be pre-drilled to prevent them from cracking or splintering when installed.

Do-it-yourself rafter system for a gable roof: a review of hanging and layered structures

The fastening pitch depends on the steepness of the slope and the thickness of the thermal insulation; it must be determined by a specialist engineer.

Insulation over rafters.

Closed rafters.

The same thing is done as in the previous version. The only difference is that the sheathing on which the heat-insulating layer was placed is moved under the rafters (Fig. 128). This can be a continuous sheathing made of boards (wooden, plastic or MDF lining) or plasterboard over a sparse sheathing.

The influence of various factors on the choice of inclination angle
What types of roofing are there?
Climatic factor
Minimum slope for some roofing materials
Example of roof slope calculation

A properly equipped roof is the key to the reliability and comfort of the entire building. Of particular importance is the slope angle of the roof slopes, the calculation of which is carried out at the design stage.

The influence of various factors on the choice of inclination angle

The degree of roof slope is influenced by the design of the entire house. In addition, it also depends on the roofing material.

The climatic conditions of a given region are also of some importance. For example, if construction is carried out in an area with frequent rain and snowfall, the minimum roof slope is recommended as 45-60 degrees. In this way, the load of snow cover on the roof structure is reduced: snow masses simply cannot accumulate there, sliding down under their own weight.

If the area is characterized by strong winds, then the best option in this case would be a low-slope roof with a low windage.

Usually we are talking about angles of 9-20 degrees. As for the universal indicator, it is somewhere between the two indicated parameters, and corresponds to 20-45 degrees. This slope angle allows for a wide selection of roofing materials.

What types of roofing are there?

Outbuildings and ancillary buildings are most often equipped with a pitched roof. It does not carry any special design originality, captivating with its cheapness and speed of installation.

Installation of a gable roof rafter system - do-it-yourself design and installation

All that is required is to build two walls of different heights and cover them with a roof. The slope angle of such structures is generally in the range of 9-25 degrees, and corrugated sheeting is often used for covering.

Since there is no attic here, a minimal roof slope can be selected. However, do not forget about the need for ventilation under the roof space.

The most popular are gable roofs, consisting of a pair of planes (slopes) connected along one line. Pediments (ends of the structure) can be decorated with doors to enter the attic or carry out repairs.

Ventilation holes (vents) may also be located there. Currently, hip roofs are gaining popularity because they have significant aesthetic potential. Roof slope indicators here can be very diverse: it all depends on personal taste and the chosen project.

More often than others, a four-slope type of hip structure is used, where two slopes have a triangular shape.

When constructing hip roofs, the use of almost any roofing material is allowed. Although we have to deal with a highly complex structure, the effort spent is more than repaid in beauty and effectiveness.

The attic roof is a more complicated version of the hip roof: in this case, the goal is to create optimal conditions for using the attic space for arranging a living room.

This involves carrying out work on reliable insulation and vapor barrier. The attic room is formed by a system of broken slopes, with quite significant angles of inclination. Most often there are dormer windows that serve both practical and aesthetic functions. Insolation of space is mandatory.

Climatic factor

When choosing the optimal slope angle, you need to take into account the climatic features of the area.

If the region experiences frequent strong winds, then it is best to use a roof with a slight slope. If this is not done, then due to the increased windage, the structure may be damaged and even collapse. As for the possibility of strengthening a roof with steep slopes, this is usually accompanied by significant financial investments.

If the region experiences heavy snowfall, a roof with a low slope will not be effective.

The slope of the slopes should be increased, which will ensure that the snow masses quickly slide down under its own weight. In this way, it is possible to avoid a significant increase in loads on the roof structure.

For areas with abundant sunny periods, a minimum slope of slate roofing is recommended, which will minimize the heated surface. Often in such cases, to protect dark rolled materials from overheating, a layer of gravel is poured onto the flat slopes. It is best for such a roof to choose a slope angle of no more than 5 degrees, carefully positioning the drainage holes.

Minimum slope for some roofing materials

When choosing a roofing material, you should carefully read its performance characteristics and recommendations for use.

  • Piece materials (slate, tiles). The minimum slope of a slate roof is 22 degrees. In this case, moisture will not be able to accumulate in the joint area, which threatens subsequent seepage inside.
  • Roll materials.

    The number of laying layers is of great importance here. If three layers are used, the slope is selected within 2-5 degrees. Two-layer installation will require an increase in angle to 15 degrees.

  • Profiled sheeting. The slope of a metal roof must be no less than 12 degrees.

    Small angles require additional sealing of the joining areas.

  • Metal tiles. The slope of the slopes is at least 14 degrees.
  • Ondulin. From 6 degrees.
  • Soft tiles. From 11 degrees, in which case the installation of a continuous sheathing is mandatory.
  • Membranes.

    A universal coating used on a wide variety of roofs. The minimum roof slope is 2 degrees.

When determining what the minimum roof slope should be, the load-bearing capacity of the roof structure should be taken into account. It is important that it can effectively withstand all external loads characteristic of a given region.

There are permanent (weight of the roof and its equipment) and temporary (atmospheric influences) loads.

The slope angle has a direct impact on the construction of the sheathing.

It is recommended to equip minimally inclined slopes with continuous sheathing, or use a pitch of 350-450 mm. In addition, a flat roof will require additional time to arrange water drainage from its surface. For these purposes, a slope system is used.

On large rooftops, an emergency water drainage system is often installed in case water flows exceed the capacity of the main drains.

Since roofing materials are quite expensive, you need to choose them very carefully, taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages.

It is important to choose the most optimal coating for your home from the variety of options available for sale. The process of constructing a roof should also be organized as responsibly as possible, since even minimal errors in the process of calculating the angle of inclination can have the most disastrous consequences.

It’s good if you can get it done with some minor repairs or alterations. It often happens that an incorrectly designed roof undergoes significant damage and destruction during strong winds or snow. This can lead not only to serious financial losses, but also to injuries to the people living in such a house.

Example of roof slope calculation

When starting to calculate the slope of roof slopes, you should carefully study the climatic features of the area where you plan to build a house.

When collecting information, you can turn to the experience of your neighbors, taking into account their constructive research. The more precipitation there is in the region, the larger the slope angle is; the stronger the winds, the smaller. If we talk about economic considerations, the lowest material consumption is observed when constructing roofs with a slope of 10-60 degrees.

To determine the height of the roof ridge and the location of the rafters, use either a square or a special calculation formula.

Here, a value equal to half the span width should be multiplied by a special coefficient. For example, if a house has a width of 10 m and the angle of inclination of its roof is 25 degrees, to calculate the height of the rafters, half the width (5) is multiplied by the corresponding coefficient (0.47). The result is 2.35: this is the recommended height for raising the rafters. The list of coefficients, depending on the angle of inclination, is contained in special literature.

The ancient saying “measure twice, cut once” is also quite true for roofing. Of particular importance is the correct calculation of the slope of its slopes. If the angle of the roof is calculated incorrectly, the consequences can be dire. The most common defect is roof leakage at the joints of individual installation elements.

This usually happens during heavy rain and spring melting of snow accumulated on the roof. More serious consequences of errors in calculating the angle of inclination are damage or destruction of the roof under the influence of wind or snow loads.

If you decide to build a house on your own, but you are not confident in making calculations for organizing the roof, it is best to turn to experienced specialists who can draw up an optimal project.

In the future, construction work can be carried out independently, using accurate calculations.

1. General information about rafter systems

2. Materials for rafter systems

3. Hanging rafter system

4. Layered rafter system

5. Hip rafter system

6. Selection of rafter system

Today, a variety of rafter systems are used for roof construction.

But, despite all the diversity of their types, each rafter structure is based on the same requirements that must be met in order for the roof to be durable. When creating a roof yourself, it doesn’t hurt to know the design features of the most popular systems.

General information about rafter systems

The rafter system is a roof frame that rests on the supporting structures of the building and serves as the basis for insulation, waterproofing and roofing materials.

The type of construction and dimensions of rafter systems depend on:

  • building size;
  • roof truss material;
  • roofing material (mainly from its specific gravity);
  • roof loads in the form of snow and wind, characteristic of the region;
  • preferences regarding the shape of the roof.

Each of these factors is important in deciding which types of rafter system are best suited for a particular situation.

Materials for rafter systems

The most common material for creating rafter systems is wood. Typically, timber 150 by 150 millimeters or boards 50 by 150 millimeters are used. But if it is necessary to strengthen the structure, thicker timber is used, and the boards are connected to each other. Of course, all this applies only to private houses; other technologies are used in the construction of high-rise buildings and industrial buildings.

Rafters 150x150 are made of timber, usually pine. It is best to use aged timber, which does not change its shape after the roof is created, and then the structure will be more stable.

Rafters 50x150 are also used - they are made from boards. Wooden rafters are used only to create roofs of private buildings; in the case of multi-story buildings and industrial buildings, metal elements are used.

Rafters 50-150 have to be stitched to give them the required strength.

Before installation, wooden rafters must be treated with antibacterial and fire-fighting agents. Antibacterial impregnation prevents rotting if the elements are in a humid environment (for example, under the influence of roof condensation inside).

Fire-prevention treatment reduces the flammability of wood.

There are currently no difficulties with processing rafters.

There is a large selection of antipyretics and antiseptics on the market. You can also use preparations for comprehensive wood protection. It is better to treat wood with a brush - spraying the product does not allow achieving a good degree of impregnation. Regardless of what types of rafters will be used, they can be reinforced with additional metal elements.

Racks made of metal profiles are most often installed under ridge girders to create support - they are the ones most subject to loads.

However, steel rafters require more serious roof insulation, since metal conducts cold well.

Regardless of the material from which the rafters are made, the system is assembled in such a way that its structure is sufficiently rigid. For this reason, most types of trusses have a triangular shape - it is this geometric shape that allows you to create the greatest rigidity.

Rafter systems can be layered (sloping) or hanging.

Hanging rafter system

Extension rafters (hanging) have only two points of support for each pair of rafter legs.

Such support points are usually the load-bearing walls of the house. In this case, the rafter legs work both for bending and compression. They should not rest directly on the walls, but on the mauerlat - this is a thick supporting beam made of wood or a structure made of boards fastened together, firmly attached to the end of the load-bearing walls.

Installing rafters on a gable roof

The rafter legs are attached to the mauerlat using a notch. The rafter is also fixed additionally - with a bracket or bracket. The design of the system provides a bursting force that is transmitted to the wall fence. The most common way to compensate for expansion is to create a tie connecting each pair of rafters at the bottom. Usually the tie is placed at the very bottom, in this case it also serves as a ceiling.

If the tightening is located higher, it must be more powerful, since the load on it increases significantly. In addition to the fact that this element compensates for the bursting force, it also does not allow the rafter legs to move apart.

The process of attaching rafters on a pitched roof:

Layered rafter system

Sloping rafters (sloping) require the presence of a middle load-bearing wall in the building.

Layered rafters have the following characteristic features:

  1. The walls of the buildings serve as support for layered rafters, and their middle part is supported by internal columnar supports or a middle load-bearing wall.
  2. The elements of the layered system can work exclusively in bending; they are not subjected to compressive loads.

    Thanks to this, thinner parts can be used for rafters of this type, and the system is lightweight. Thus, the layered system allows you to save a lot on lumber.

  3. If the building has a complex structure, you can alternate types of rafter systems when creating the roof. Where there is no support, a hanging rafter system is installed, and where there is a support or a middle load-bearing wall, inclined ones are installed.

Hip rafter system

A hipped hip roof requires the creation of a special rafter system.

Due to the complex geometry of such a roof, the rafters must serve different purposes, so they come in the following types.

Diagonal rafters (sloping) form the ribs of the roof, connecting the corners of the building with the ends of the ridge beam. Sloping rafters are the longest and must have great strength, since they are subject to the main load.

The central (ordinary) rafters connect the mauerlat with the ridge beam on the sides of the slopes.

Such rafters are installed in parallel.

Corner rafters (another name is sprigs) are shorter than ordinary rafters; they are needed to connect the Mauerlat not to the ridge, but to the sloped rafters.

The hip rafter system is more complex than the hanging or layered one, but it gives the roof with four slopes the greatest strength (read: “Rafter roofing - we build together”).

Selection of rafter system

For a pitched roof, you can use the simplest rafter system. The support for the slope in this case is the opposite wall, and the angle depends on the height of the supports. The angle is usually 45-60 degrees (read: “Rafter system of a pitched roof, main advantages and characteristics”).

The design of a gable roof is a little more complicated - the lower parts of the rafters are supported by a mauerlat or special supports, and the upper parts are connected at the ridge (useful article: “Sloped and hanging rafters - installation nuances”).

The hip system is the most complex, but the roof turns out incredibly beautiful.

When building such a structure, it is better to turn to professionals, since uneven distribution of the load can lead to roof collapse. One of the varieties of a hip roof is a hip roof, reminiscent of a pyramid (read: “Hip roof - rafter system: elements and structure”).

When creating an attic roof, they try to leave as much free space as possible for arranging the attic.

There are quite a few types of rafter systems, and it is important to choose the right option for a particular situation.

Steel structures of wooden roofs

Private construction is unique in that most developers attempt to construct a building with a customized function. Here you can use all sorts of tricks, advice from friends and acquaintances, but regardless of the house, it is very important to install the basic components. If it is configured from wood, the frame can be bought ready-made, but with regard to the roof, everything is more complicated. The most important part of the structure is the hinges of the timber roof structures.

You must know them absolutely correctly, so the building lasts as long as possible.

Cars made from wooden roofs

If you've ever attended a home roof installation, you probably know that scissor is a system of some kind of roof structure. A cover is placed over them, and the cap on the back may be covered with reverse material.

Installation of rafters: step-by-step instructions

The entire life of handlebar knives holds enormous weights that can reach 200 kilograms per square meter under certain conditions.

This value can be achieved if owners do not maintain the roof or collect a lot of debris, leaves and snow.

During roof construction, it must support the weight of more workers and their equipment. This load is entirely individual because it is difficult to predict exact numbers unless you know how much workers weigh or what equipment they will be carrying.

Therefore, very often roofs are built in such a way that no matter how high the load is, they can carry it. Only in this case will he work and monitor him calmly and safely.

The next most important element is called the Mauerlatt or otherwise the supporting line. This is a kind of foundation for the entire roof.

This element must be strong, so in most cases needle wood is used to prepare it. Mauerlatt can be mounted to the wall in a variety of ways, but the most popular and simplest is: mounting with built-in parts or anchors. For the first method, special metal parts are laid and manufactured at the end of the wall construction process.

The support beam holds the scissors, which means they can bear the weight and load they can carry.

Calculating the selection of facade elements is quite simple and complex at the same time. It's very easy to figure out one equation, but it's not always possible to find all the shades and fit them into the formula, so many developers just accept products that do a great job and don't bother. This is partly true, but what if this is not enough. The solution to this problem can be achieved through all the supports and support.

If you are faced with a 3D roof, then it will not be possible without support and support.

Thanks to these elements, the upper legs can feel as stable as possible. An important part of the entire system is the box. It can be separated by a separated method or by a solid substance. If the roofing material is strong, you can use the first one, but if it is soft, then only the other one. Generally, the empty packaging is continuously packed around the corner, thereby increasing the stability of the entire canopy and making it stronger.

The reef is a very important part of any roof.

Not only does it protect the two levels from dust and moisture, but it also allows moist air to escape the attic space. This is especially important if the lid or something in the cake completely seals the materials from moisture. Humid air is nothing more than the beginning of condensation and destruction of all elements of the scissor system.

IMPORTANT: before assembling wooden elements, it is very important that they are treated with protective compounds.

Antiseptics protect the structure of lumber due to rotting and the proliferation of harmful microorganisms, and fire retardants increase fire resistance.

Rafter truss

On large slopes you cannot do without a truss. This design differs from a conventional roof, which has posts and struts that multiply the maximum load of the wood.

Often the truss spreads across the roof, but sometimes it can also occur locally.

It is advisable to organize a thorn farm if the width of your house is in the range of 12 to 24 meters.

Typically, trapezoidal or segmented trusses are located for large-scale buildings. If the width of the building is even greater and this value does not exceed 36 meters, it is suitable for polygons. The triangle fits standard models with a width of 9 to 18 meters.

In addition to the shape of the reed, the material from which it is made plays a very important role. In most cases this is wood, but metal can also be used.

Self-tapping screws or nails are used to secure wood. In cases where the range length is more than 16 meters, the truss combination is most suitable. It includes elements made of wood and metal.

Tightening the blades

As you already know, timber roof hinges are the most important element of a building's structure and are more important than the fastening of the roof frame.

Rafting legs can be attached to the bracket in two ways.

In the first case, you will get the most stable connection, which will facilitate the planning of all possible movements, oscillations, turns and similar manipulations. This can be achieved by cutting or cutting. Once the leg is inserted into the created slot, secure it with nails, wire, anchors or other fasteners.

The sliding joint looks completely different.

It has three degrees of freedom of conjugation. It should be immediately noted that this method of fixation makes it the most logical for use in wooden houses, because it is characterized by large shrinkage, which makes the rigid hinge severely damaged.

If you want to create such an anchor, you will have to rest in the Mauerlat, when a dental suture has been previously installed or an additional beam has been made. Connect these parts using a metal corner. As the top part, the connection is the same cutout, and the edge is cut along the cable so that a sliding hinge is provided.

IMPORTANT: If you are not satisfied with rigid or semi-freedom, you can install special movable plates to obtain a perfect sliding connection.

Ridge tied up

As I said, the horse is one of the important components of every system where two skates are combined.

As a rule, it is located in the upper part of the roof, but there are also structures where there is more than one horse, the roof of the roof, three at the same time.

Rafting legs are almost always designed to be as close to the spine element as possible.

This will provide better protection from dust and precipitation.

There are two types of loading systems available for roof closures. The first is a pillar, the other is hanging. If we consider the first one, the joint appears with a cut up to half of the tree. Thanks to this technology, maximum power is guaranteed. As for the suspended rafters, their lower part is connected in pairs.

This can be achieved by cutting each beam at a specific angle, which is equal to the slope of the roof. The saw is then applied to each other and intertwined with the nails so that each fastener penetrates through the groove into the second stud.

Often we can find rare elements with a perforated body.

Small holes prevent small rodents and birds from entering the attic, and the quality of natural ventilation increases several times.

Complex parts of a hip roof

The roof is suitable for almost all types of buildings, so all these problems are best shown. A distinctive feature of the hip joint design is the obvious presence of the thighs.

This scissor system can have the following advantages:

  • Durability. Due to the correct load distribution, the base elements are less than the pressure, so they are in a relative state.
  • Low windshield. The material on such a roof is very difficult to hit even by the strongest winds.
  • Resistant to all types of precipitation.
  • Economical option for large structures.
  • The optimal angle of inclination allows the use of almost all roofing materials.
  • The roof is quite large, so you can set up a living room in the attic.

    If you want to create additional lighting in the rollers, you can insert light windows that are audible at the same time.

The weak point can be attributed to the rather complex device.

The appearance of the roof is just a few shapes: trapezoid and triangle.

They are opposite to each other, so that the shear system can be processed symmetrically. Where the ridges are in contact, the rafters are folded. They can be attached to the rest of the system using fur and a stratified structure.

The sliding beams in the lower part are combined with a Mauerlat or a beam located on the inner wall. From the top of the support is going to roll, so the legs should be close to the ridge.

Each roof must be installed in accordance with the building company's standards and regulations.

This is the only way for high quality and safe design. Observe safety precautions when working at height.