Single-lever faucets attract with their laconic design and ease of control of water flow. Turning on the water, changing its temperature and pressure - all this with one turn of the handle. These devices are reliable and have a long service life—some branded ones come with a 5-year warranty. However, repair of a single-lever faucet is periodically necessary.
Types of single-lever mixers and their design
Despite the external similarity, there are two types of rotary or single-lever faucets - with a cartridge (cartridge) and ball - with a ball inside. You can repair any of them, but to do this you must first disassemble them. And so that you can not only disassemble, but also assemble, it is advisable to become familiar with the internal structure of each.
The design may be different, the structure remains the same
Cartridge mixer: structure
Cartridge mixers are so named because their shut-off and control mechanism is hidden in a special cartridge flask. In more expensive faucet models, the cartridge body is made of ceramic, in cheaper ones - from plastic. The good thing about these models is that they are easy to repair, but it is not always easy to achieve the required pressure with them - you need tighter control of the handle. But changing the water temperature is very easy - with a slight movement of the hand.
The structure of a single-lever faucet with a cartridge is simple. If you go from top to bottom:
- Switch with fixing screw.
- Locking (clamping) nut.
- Cartridge. The water flows are mixed in it, and the same device shuts off the water.
- The mixer body, which has a “seat” for the cartridge.
- Fasteners, studs and gaskets to ensure tightness.
- Spout (gander). It can be a separate part - in rotary models for the kitchen or part of the body - for sinks in the bathroom.
- If the spout is separate, gaskets are also installed below and there is also part of the body.
The cartridge itself contains several (usually 4) ceramic or metal disks of a special shape. A rod is welded to the upper disk. By changing the position of the rod, we change the position of the plates relative to each other, changing the amount of water passing through the holes in the plates.
In order for the faucet/mixer to work normally, the plates are ground very tightly. For this reason, cartridge single-lever faucets are very demanding on water quality. Foreign fragments getting between the plates causes the faucet to leak or stop working altogether. To avoid this, some manufacturers install filters on the incoming pipes. But, it’s better to supply and get clean water, which can be safely supplied to household appliances.
Single lever ball mixer
It got its name from the element in which the water is mixed - a ball with cavities. The ball is usually metal, hollow inside. Its outer part is polished to a shine. The ball has three holes - two for the entry of cold and hot water, one for the exit of already mixed water. A rod is attached to the ball, which fits into a cavity in the handle. This rod with a rigidly attached ball changes the temperature of the water and its pressure.
It is easier to adjust the parameters with such a device - the parts are well lapped, the handle moves easily. Mixers with a ball mechanism are less critical to the presence of mechanical impurities, but do not respond very well to the presence of hardness salts and excess iron. So for normal operation, pre-filtration is required here too.
How to disassemble and repair a faucet with a cartridge
Repairing a single-lever cartridge faucet often involves reassembling and cleaning the O-rings. Salts are deposited on them, debris and dirt accumulate, which is why the faucet begins to leak. To eliminate this nuisance, the mixer is disassembled, all parts are wiped of dirt (with soapy warm water), rinsed, dried, and put back in place.
Let's figure out how to disassemble a faucet with a cartridge. First, turn off the water, and then the procedure is as follows:
That's all. The single lever mixer with cartridge was disassembled. As you can see, there are not many details. The main working part is the cartridge. It is in it, inside, that mixing occurs.
Replacing the cartridge
The cartridge itself has a sealing gasket - a rubber seat at the bottom, which ensures a tight fit to the body. Over time, the rubber loses its elasticity and water begins to leak out. If this is the problem, you can first try to clean this ring from the salts and deposits that have formed on it. Place the cleaned part in place and check the work. If the leak does not stop, you will have to replace the cartridge.
Cartridges for “one-arm” faucets
Cartridges for mixers have different diameters, and the inlets and outlets in the lower part are located differently. Therefore, if you need to replace it, first you disassemble the mixer, get the treasured part and go to the store or market with it. You must choose exactly the same model without any deviations. At home, install the cartridge into the housing, turn it slightly until you feel that it “sits” in place. Next is assembly, it goes in reverse order.
First install the clamp nut. Actually, at this stage you can check how the new cartridge works. Turn on the water, adjust the temperature and pressure with the stem. To make it more convenient, you can put a handle on the rod. If everything is fine, continue assembly.
We disassemble and repair a single-lever ball mixer
The single-lever ball mixer was invented a little over 40 years ago. Its design is simple and reliable - there is nothing to break. If problems arise, it is only due to poor quality water - dirt particles settle on the rubber saddles on which the ball rests. The contact deteriorates, water leaks out and the faucet begins to leak.
Some ball valves are also available with a cartridge. Only inside the cartridge there are not plates, but a ball. Disassembly of this type is no different from that described above. All the difference is hidden inside the flask. There are also other types of taps. In them, the locking ball is installed directly into the rubber seat. There are some minor differences here.
The faucet lever is removed in the same way - first remove the plug, then unscrew the screw with a hexagon. Pull the lever up and remove it. Afterwards the steps are very simple and similar to those described above:
- We unscrew the cap, preferably by hand, since it is usually made of thin metal and is easy to bend.
- We unscrew the clamping nut, there is a washer under it, remove it too.
- Access to the ball has opened. Pull the rod and take out the ball.
- Under the ball there are two saddles, with springs so that the elastic bands are pressed more tightly to the ball.
That's it, sorted it out. Next comes the repair of the single-lever mixer. In theory, the problem is that deposits have accumulated at the contact point between the ball and the seat. They need to be removed - carefully clean and wipe. There may be problems with the springs. Dirt sometimes accumulates on them too, but more often they simply lose their elasticity.
The third source of problems is the ball itself. In general, it should be made of stainless steel; accordingly, it only needs to be cleaned of deposits. In reality, this is not always the case - cheap faucets have appeared even with plastic balls or made of cheap metal. In this case, peeling of the surface or other similar troubles may occur. Such a locking element will no longer work normally. It needs to be replaced. You also go to the store with the ball and select a replacement of the appropriate size. Assembling the mixer in the reverse order: springs from the seat, the seat is out of place, there is a ball on it, etc. When assembling the entire structure, carefully center everything - misalignment will lead to rapid wear and the tap will leak again.
Repair of a single lever faucet with swivel spout
Faucets with a swivel spout are installed on sinks in the kitchen or bathroom. Periodically it starts leaking from under it. In this case, the locking mechanism is not to blame; it’s just that the gaskets have lost their elasticity or the lubricant has dried out.
In this case, disassemble the mixer as described above, then remove it by pulling the spout up. Remove all old gaskets. If they are stuck, you can use a flathead screwdriver or even a knife blade. You have to remove them, but they are still replaceable. Use the removed gaskets to select new ones. It is advisable that they be made of silicone, not rubber. Silicone is more elastic, retains its properties longer, and tolerates contact with water better.
Lubricate the new gaskets with plumbing silicone grease and install them in place. Reinstall the spout. It must be pressed down well so that it rests against the union nut on the mixer body. Next is the assembly of the rest of the mechanism.
How to repair a faucet in the kitchen yourself
When you buy a new faucet for your kitchen, you use it for a certain period of time without any problems. However, one day you discovered that it began to leak water, and at night water began to drip even with the tap tightly closed. Naturally, a broken faucet in the kitchen needs repair.
You can invite a plumber who will promptly repair the faucet in the kitchen, but his work will cost you approximately the cost of a new unit. Or you can do the repairs yourself by studying the proposed material and watching video tutorials on this topic on the Internet.
How to understand that a faucet needs repair
As a rule, each of us opens and closes the water in the kitchen several dozen times during the day, but almost no one counts these times. Such movements place a very heavy load on the mixer, which on average is designed for a million such movements, but with frequent opening and closing it is also prone to breakage.
The need to repair the mixer appears when the following signals occur:
- water drips from under the handle of the structure;
- water drips from the spout, even the valves or lever are closed;
- when the tap was operating, a humming sound began to appear in the pipes;
- the stream of water became thinner;
- With a single-lever mixer, the handle began to move jerkily;
- the lever is extremely difficult to fix in a certain position;
- water begins to flow even from under the spout union nut;
- if the mixer is valve type, water flows from under the flywheel.
When you detect at least one such “symptom”, you need to urgently take action so as not to provoke more serious problems with the mixer. You will learn below how to repair a faucet with your own hands in the kitchen in as much detail as possible.
Preparatory work
If you are determined to take on the task of repairing the faucet yourself, you need to first prepare for it. Preparatory activities will be as follows:
The following set of tools will be required:
When everything is ready, you can start repairing. Repair work will vary depending on the type of fault and type of faucet.
Reasons for failure of single-lever faucets
The most common type of kitchen faucet is the single lever faucet. Before you begin repairs, take a close look at it to find out why the leak occurred. Typically, the reasons may be as follows:
- damage to the body;
- worn inner gasket.
If the housing is damaged, the resulting crack can be repaired with a compound such as cold welding, but this measure will only be temporary. If the leak occurs again, the mixer will need to be replaced. And if you do not find any cracks during inspection, then you need to change the gasket.
To change it yourself, you need to remove the tap itself. Take a screwdriver and use it to lift and remove the decorative casing of the structure, if there was one on it. If it is made of fragile material, you need to be extremely careful. Next, unscrew the nuts on the body and remove the mixer. We remove the old gasket and put on a new one, then screw the fasteners and put the faucet back.
This repair is suitable for wall-mounted faucets that are connected directly to the pipes, but if they are built into the sink, then there will be much more work.
For models that are built into the sink, the ceramic or metal cartridge very often wears out. When it wears out, water constantly drips, and if measures are not taken in time, the intensity of its flow will only increase. To make repairs yourself in this case, you need to follow these steps:
- pry the cover on the lever and lift it to gain access to the fastening screw;
- unscrew the screw and remove the lever, then unscrew the fasteners on the cartridge;
- unscrew the cartridge from the thread, but do not damage it;
- change it to a new one;
- Reassemble the structure following the reverse procedure.
The old cartridge can no longer be repaired; it can only be replaced, especially since the price of the new product is not too high.
Repair of a mixer with two valves
If the faucet in the kitchen leaks too intensely, then you need to repair it yourself only after turning off the water. However, this does not happen too often, so we will consider in detail other situations, for example, how to replace the rubber gasket in a two-valve faucet in the kitchen with your own hands.
Rubber gaskets for kitchen faucets with two valves are a key consumable. They wear out and become deformed due to the following reasons and factors:
- temperature effect;
- small particles in water getting on the gasket.
To repair and replace, you will need a new gasket, as well as a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench.
The repair progress is as follows:
- turn off the water. Make sure that it is closed by opening both valves, and at the same time drain the remaining water from the pipes;
- leave the valves open to reduce the load on the internal parts of the valves;
- disassemble the valves - pry off the decorative red and blue caps on their flywheels, then use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw inside the flywheel;
- unscrew the fastening nut with an adjustable wrench;
- Unscrew the valve axle and remove the gasket. If it is fixed with special nuts, then first remove them, and after replacing, put them back;
- rinse all parts of the valves in a bucket of water to clean them from dirt and rust;
- install a new gasket and assemble the structure.
How to seal an oil seal with your own hands
Very often, a valve mixer in the kitchen becomes unusable due to a leakage of the seal, when the seal ring on the body of the faucet axle wears out. To check this and understand what type of repair is suitable, disassemble the valve as indicated above, remove the valve axle and examine the seal. If there are even minor abrasions or burrs on it, then the stuffing box ring needs to be replaced. It is sold in any hardware store or market. To purchase the desired model, take with you a crane axle box and an old oil seal. Very often, one or another model is suitable exclusively for a specific mixer.
When installing the ring into the groove, make sure it is seated correctly. Tighten the faucet and flywheel, and then turn the water supply valve and open it. See if the water is flowing now. If there are no leaks, then the repair was done correctly.
How to repair a ball mixer in the kitchen
The ball-type design is the most advanced in terms of operation and internal structure. You can adjust the temperature and water pressure with just the movement of one lever. This design includes a hollow stainless steel ball with three holes:
- one hole for cold water;
- the second is for hot;
- the third is for the release of mixed water into the spout.
The ball glides using fluorinated rubber seats. All structural elements are contained in a cartridge sleeve, which is located in the mixer.
Such a faucet may need repair due to the usual speck or rust particles that get into the hole between the seats and the ball. In such cases, it needs to be urgently repaired. To save yourself from repairs, it is better to install special cleaning filters on pipes with hot and cold water.
Also, a ball mixer in the kitchen can break due to wear of the gaskets and seats.
What you need for DIY repairs
Repair of a ball unit includes the use of the following working tools, some of which are included with the product:
Now you need to properly disassemble the tap itself:
- unscrew the special screw in the lever using a hexagon and remove the handle;
- using pipe pliers, unscrew the cap, then remove first it, then the cam, then its washer and the ball itself;
- take a flathead screwdriver and pull the seats out of the holes along with the springs;
- To remove the spout, turn it up so that you can remove the seals and lubricate them or replace them.
- Of course, before starting repairs, turn off the water in the riser so as not to have unnecessary problems and not flood the kitchen with water.
Useful tips for repairing kitchen faucets
Every time you undertake one or another plumbing repair with your own hands, you are exposed to unpleasant consequences that may arise due to ignorance of certain nuances of the work. Experienced specialists share with you the following useful tips that will save you from consequences and save time:
- buy all components for repairs in advance;
- Carry out repair work only during the day when stores are open. This way you can always run out and buy the necessary parts or tools;
- if you unscrew nickel-plated or chrome-plated elements, wrap the tools to prevent the surface from being scratched;
- When removing the cap on the ball mixer, be careful as it may be pressed tightly against the body due to salt deposits. Make sure that the flexible leads at the bottom of the structure do not come off.
So, we have introduced you to the types of malfunctions of certain mixers, which you can get rid of through DIY repairs. In addition, you received basic knowledge of how to replace damaged parts of a structure with new ones and what tools to use for this.
If you do everything correctly, your kitchen taps will not leak, and everything will work like clockwork.
Donskikh Vladimir Alexandrovich
How to repair a single lever kitchen faucet with your own hands
One of the main and frequently used devices will, of course, be a kitchen faucet. And due to its need, it also becomes unusable. And today I will tell you how to repair a faucet in the kitchen with your own hands. There are a lot of videos on similar topics on the Internet, but in this article everything will be described in more detail. Recently, housewives are increasingly choosing a lever mechanism rather than a conventional one. Such faucets are usually durable, due to the absence of rubbing parts, and their stylish appearance, smooth lines and a variety of colors do not make things worse.
Single lever mixers come in 2 types:
The operating principle and design of a single-lever mixer with ceramic cartridges is shown in the photo. 
The central part, which is located between the lever and the tube, is called the mixer body; the most important part is hidden in it - the cartridge, which is responsible for mixing water and is often the main source of problems. The mixer handle is installed on the body. At the faucet mounting point there is a swivel spout; its water resistance and mobility are ensured by a variety of rings. There is an aerator at the end of the faucet, but we'll get to that later.
There are also ball mixers. Their device looks something like this: 
They also have a “body”, but inside they have a ball, which is actually responsible for regulating the water. Under the handle, which is secured with a screw, there is a metal cap that holds the entire valve mechanism inside. There is also a shaped washer inside, which serves as a regulator of the angle of rotation of the lever, and it fits tightly to the ball itself. The bottom is not much different from the previous faucet.
Types of fastening:
Many craftsmen advise removing the entire sink, which will make working with the faucet easier, and at the same time it will be possible to update the sealant. If you are still planning a major overhaul of the mixer, then you should purchase a set of flexible metal braided hoses, just be sure to check the length. You can also try rigid liner made from metal-plastic pipes. On the one hand, you will need to buy special adapters 
. but on the other hand, this method of eyeliner will last a very, very long time.
Before starting any work, do not forget to turn off the cold and hot water, and open the tap to reduce the pressure, and of course, drain all liquids. If you disconnect the pipes, use a bucket to drain the remaining water. Repairing a single lever faucet is a very neat job.
What symptoms will tell you that the problem is in the mixer:
You screw the adapter to the pipe, and only then put the hose on the adapter itself. As an option, remove the sealing gasket between the faucet and the sink.
If the lever is functioning normally, but there is water near the faucet, then try looking for cracks. If you do notice something, change the mixer immediately; there is no way to help it.
Step-by-step instructions for repair:
If you have the same problem, but in a ball mixer, then you need to do this:
As a result, repairing a kitchen faucet with your own hands is not such a difficult task. In principle, it will take you one day to go through the entire sink. But there's no need to rush. Everything needs to be done as carefully and carefully as possible. But the easy and understandable design of this mixer corresponds to the ease of its repair.
How to fix a faucet in the kitchen: we fix leaks and other faucet malfunctions with our own hands
In the kitchen, the faucet is used much more actively than in the bathroom, so it breaks down much more often. In rare cases, the only solution to the problem that has arisen is to buy a new device and invite a plumber; in other cases, you can handle it yourself. By deciding to repair a kitchen faucet yourself, you will save on the services of a specialist and gain important experience. You just need to arm yourself with theory and tools.
Your kitchen faucet needs repair if you experience the following “symptoms”:
- Leakage from under the nut at the water outlet, from under the handle (lever) or mixer valves in working condition.
- The correct movement of the lever or valves is disrupted (they stick, turn, do not lock in the desired position, etc.).
- At normal water pressure in the system, the jet is not powerful enough.
- Water drips from a closed tap.
Please note: the detected problem must be resolved as quickly as possible! This will extend the service life of the mixer and protect yourself and your neighbors from flooding, saving money, time and nerves.
The problem that raises the most questions is a leaking faucet. And here you need to know the “enemy” not only by sight, but also from the inside. We are talking about the design of mixers.
Such delights as thermostatic and touchless faucets are good for bathrooms. In the kitchen, more practical models - traditional two-valve and single-lever - are fighting for a place in the sun. The common elements for them are: body, spout (spout), aerator, sealing gaskets. Otherwise they differ significantly.
Faucets with two valves that are familiar to the eye are designed quite simply. Under the flywheel, which you turn when operating the structure, there is a crane-axlebox - its locking element. Below is the design of such a kitchen faucet in pictures.
Axleboxes in a two-valve mixer (sectional view)
In products where several revolutions of the flywheel are required to supply or shut off water, worm axle boxes are installed. Their work is based on rotational-translational movements. The more you unscrew the valve, the further the axle box gasket will move away from the so-called “saddle”. The consequence of this is the flow of water into the internal cavity of the mixer, and then into its spout (spout).
Worm worm valve axle box for mixer
In models where it is enough to make only half a revolution to supply water, axle boxes with ceramic plates are installed. When you open the tap, the holes in them coincide and water flows into the spout.
Crane axle boxes with ceramic plates
The cost of faucet axle boxes is low, they are always available in plumbing stores, and their replacement is extremely simple.
More modern and practical are models of faucets with one handle (lever) that regulates pressure and temperature. Mixing water in them is carried out in a hollow ball with three holes or in a special cartridge.
The mixing element in ball models has three openings, two of which are inlets - designed to supply hot and cold water to this miniature container, and one outlet - for supplying water at a given temperature to the sink.
Ball mixer device
The ball itself is located on two rubber “saddles”. Its displacement relative to them, carried out when the lever moves, allows you to regulate the pressure and temperature of the water being poured out. The ball is secured at the top with a sealing collar and a lock nut.
Schematic structure of a ball model of a kitchen faucet
The operating principle of a mixer with a cartridge that replaces a ball is similar. At the same time, their internal structure is fundamentally different. There are still the same three functional holes, but inside the cartridge there is not a cavity, but special metal-ceramic disks. Due to their displacement relative to each other and the degree of overlap of the supply holes, when turning the lever, the water supply is adjusted.
Replaceable ceramic cartridges
To repair a kitchen faucet you will need:
- knife with a sharp end;
- hex and adjustable wrench;
- screwdrivers;
- a new cartridge, valve axle, rubber gasket, etc. - depends on which part you will change;
- WD40 is a technical aerosol that is useful if parts are “stuck” to each other. However, you can get by with the traditional tapping of a hammer on a screwdriver, but there is a high risk of damaging the mixer.
Regardless of which faucet you have installed, before starting repairs, you must turn off the water supply to the system and drain its remaining water into a sink or a separate container. To do this, just open the tap. Then you can begin to repair it, taking into account the design features.
To repair a single-lever faucet, you will need a hex wrench.
The main principles of repair are sequence of actions and accuracy.
Removing the decorative casing
It is important! Do not tighten the nuts too tightly, as this may lead to deformation of the rubber seals and disruption of the normal operation of the mixer.
Installing a new cartridge
To extend the service life of the product and ensure smooth running of its rubbing parts, you can use a special silicone lubricant.
Removing the mixer handwheel
What to do if your two-valve faucet is dripping in your kitchen? Almost everything is the same.
- On the valve flywheel, pry up and remove the decorative plug.
- Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw that secures the flywheel.
- Remove the flywheel. There will be a crane box in front of you.
- Unscrew it counterclockwise and inspect it.
- If it is a worm-type axlebox and its gasket is damaged, replace it separately - buy it in a store (costs pennies) or cut it yourself from rubber of a suitable thickness. The axle box with ceramic discs is replaced entirely.
- Reassemble the faucet in reverse order.
General scheme of mixer repair work
Everything is as simple as possible and slightly reminiscent of a construction set. But a leaking faucet is not the only problem you may encounter while using it in the kitchen.
The quality of water in many cities leaves much to be desired, so over time the aerator in the tap can become dirty. On the inside, hard deposits “grow” on it. When there are too many of them, the pressure and quality of the water deteriorate significantly. The solution to the problem is to replace the aerator. Ideally, it can be easily unscrewed with an adjustable wrench, but for stuck parts you will need WD40 or tapping with a hammer.
It is important! Carry out all work carefully, otherwise the mixer will have to be replaced completely.
The faucet is leaking, and during the inspection you found a crack in it? Then it's time to go for a new product. For a short time, silicone sealant can be an assistant.
You can extend the life of the faucet if you install a water filter and use the device carefully, without tightening the valves too tightly or moving the lever suddenly and all the way.
Now you know what to do if your kitchen faucet is dripping. In most cases, the repair schemes discussed are also suitable for eliminating breakdowns of faucets in bathrooms. This is a good saving for the family budget. But if you are not confident in your abilities or you simply don’t have time, a competent plumber will complete all the work in a matter of minutes.
Monotonously and inevitably, with the precision of a metronome, the slapping sounds are repeated, carrying brains and money straight down the drain. The reason is simple and banal - the faucet is dripping in the kitchen or bathroom.
The situation is simple and familiar to everyone; such breakdowns are far from uncommon and this situation is fraught with many troubles. Starting from the risk of flooding your neighbors from below to rising water bills.
Such phenomena can be avoided by constant monitoring of the operation and condition of plumbing equipment, as well as careful adherence to operating rules.
A kitchen faucet is not a very complex technical product, but it still functions under pressure. Despite the apparent simplicity of this mechanism, it needs increased attention.
Let's look at the reasons why it may drip from a kitchen faucet.
There can be several reasons for the formation of leaks:
- Incorrect use. Any equipment has certain operational characteristics. When providing a guarantee for their products, each manufacturer stipulates a number of restrictions, the violation of which leads to accelerated wear and tear. And often it is almost impossible to carry them out or control these parameters.
- Poor workmanship or poor quality materials. Often, when making a certain purchase, a person tries to choose an inexpensive product, trying to use financial resources economically. But often this turns into not just inconvenience, but a direct loss of money when forced to replace a defective product. Particularly unpleasant are cases when a breakdown occurs in the absence of people. When purchasing a faucet for your apartment, it is better to pay for the brand, because this concept also includes such an indicator as product quality. However, the low cost of a popular brand should alert you - most likely, this is a low-quality fake.
- Natural wear and tear associated with long-term use. The taps open and close many times during the day; its locking parts (gaskets, axle boxes, cartridges) work intensively and wear out quickly. Therefore, the best way to avoid leaks is timely forced replacement of quickly wearing components.
- One of the reasons for the breakdown may be poor build quality. The most common errors are misalignment of parts, destruction of seals due to too much tightening. Manufacturing defects cannot be ruled out, so a thorough inspection upon purchase is required.
What to do when the kitchen faucet is dripping?
First of all, you need to establish the reason why the faucet in the kitchen is dripping and decide on the possibility of eliminating it yourself. If the breakdown can be repaired yourself, then in this case you need to go to a plumbing store to purchase the necessary parts and start fixing the defect yourself.
Watch the video - the faucet is dripping in the kitchen, how to fix it yourself
Knowing how to repair a dripping faucet in the kitchen will allow you to have everything you need in stock and not have to race for little things.
How to fix a single lever kitchen faucet
Mechanisms of this type are most popular among consumers because they are quite reliable and simple in design. The regulating element is a non-separable cartridge.
The need for repairs occurs after the pressure of water flowing from the spout has decreased or a leak is observed when it is turned off. Why does the faucet drip when the water is turned off? This clearly indicates that the locking elements are worn out.
The diagram presented here can only be considered as a typical one; units of different brands may have quite significant differences. But what is common to all is the cartridge fixing nut, which is held in place by a functional lever.
The fastening is hidden by a decorative overlay on the body. You need to pry it off with a screwdriver and remove it, after which you can remove the cartridge and replace it with a new one.
If there is a leak between the faucet body and the sink, this indicates a defect in the sealing ring between them. Unscrew the housing, remove the ring and replace it with a new one.
Basically, that's all you need to know about how to fix a dripping single-lever faucet. But, given the differences in the designs of the models, you must first study the instructions attached to the specific product.
How to fix a ball mixer
Ball valve locking devices are the second most common after single-lever locking devices.
Considering the high wear resistance of ceramics, this design solution turned out to be very successful and is being successfully used. Well, if a ceramic faucet drips, then to repair it you need to change the inserts and shock absorber.
Watch the video - faucet repair or why it drips (flows) in the kitchen
Before you repair a two-valve dripping faucet, you need to turn off the water on the riser or on the corresponding branches of the cold and hot water collector. Further:
- It is necessary to remove the decorative trim on the handwheel by carefully prying it off with a narrow screwdriver.
- Unscrew the screw and remove the handwheel.
- Carefully loosen and remove the oil seal nut.
- Unscrew the rod with the rubber gasket.
- Clean the valve seat from dirt.
- Change the rubber gasket.
- Reassemble in reverse order, after which you can open the water.
Elimination of leaks that arose for other reasons
The main thing to do if your kitchen faucet is dripping is to correctly determine the cause of the leak. Knowing where the leak is coming from will greatly facilitate the repair work and, most likely, reduce the cost of it, since unreasonable disassembly of a plumbing fixture most often leads to damage to the seals.
Watch the video - how to fix a dripping faucet in the kitchen
Most often, the reason why the faucet tap drips is the following circumstances:
- leakage at the drainage point;
- unsatisfactory condition of the sealing gasket between the spout and the tap;
- violation of the tightness between the sink and the faucet;
- drips directly from the tap itself.
Water leaking from the valve usually indicates increased wear of the gaskets, which need to be replaced.
A leak can form at the point where the faucet fitting contour comes into contact with the plane of the sink. This can happen due to a careless sharp blow to the mixer body, which results in a crack in the gasket, especially if it is old.
If it drips at the spout, you need to pay attention to the condition of the taps and replace all seals. As a result of wear and aging of materials, sealing occurs.
Watch the video - how to fix the axle box on a mixer yourself
When a faucet leaks in the kitchen or bathroom, before fixing. Exceeding the pressure value above 4.5 atmospheres often causes leaks in taps.
Any repair must begin by turning off the water supply at the riser.
Selection and operation of a kitchen faucet
Breakdowns in the plumbing system occur with enviable regularity, and the reason for this may be the lack of proper regular maintenance. And above all, monitoring the operation of the water supply system is important.
The system operates stably only at stable pressure; sudden changes destroy it, and the sealing gaskets and threaded connections of locking devices are the first to suffer.
Watch the video - which faucet to choose for the kitchen
The initial quality of the tap is of great importance. First of all - the material of manufacture. A good faucet or mixer is made of heavy alloys - brass or bronze, they are easy and simple to fix. Materials such as silumin are absolutely unsuitable for plumbing, although they are often used by unscrupulous manufacturers.
Single-lever devices are convenient to use and can be operated with one hand. You should avoid purchasing products from manufacturers in China and Turkey - they traditionally do not differ in quality and durability and begin to leak immediately after installation.
The water supply system in an apartment or private house is a source of increased danger. Therefore, when operating it, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules to avoid problems. Let's list them:
- Have the ability to quickly turn off water from the riser.
- A set of tools for performing repair work should always be at hand.
- It is necessary to keep in the house a set of replaceable components for faucets and mixers that are in use.
- Be prepared to urgently call emergency water services in the event of a serious accident.
- And, of course, you need to know the rules and procedures for independently eliminating an emergency situation.
Single-lever faucets are a new trend in the design of a modern bathroom or kitchen. The standard herringbone faucet and wall-mounted faucets are losing their popularity against the backdrop of such a functional and stylish analogue. A single-lever (or joystick) faucet is a body with a plate in which cold and hot water are mixed. The plate acts as a lever. This design can be made of ceramic, metal or plastic.
If the joystick mixer fails, it must be disassembled and any problems resolved. To eliminate them, you need to know the types of “one-armed” mixers, as well as the principles of working with them.
Types and features of single-lever mixers
Exist 2 types o bottom lever taps:
Advantages and disadvantages of joystick mixers
Single lever faucets have become popular due to convenience and ease of use. With the help of such mixers, water is quickly regulated to the desired temperature by moving the lever to the right or left. To increase or decrease the water pressure, the joystick is adjusted from top to bottom. In addition, single lever taps demonstrate long service life. This is due to the fact that in the design of such faucets there are no rubbing elements made of metal, as well as rubber gaskets between the moving parts of the faucet.
The disadvantages of a ball valve are: rapid wear of rubber seals. Therefore, to avoid breakdowns and clogging of the mixer, it is recommended to replace these parts every 2 years. Failure of a single-lever faucet can occur if abrasive elements (for example, sand) enter it along with water. This is why it is so important to install special filters to prevent clogging.
Some cheap models of cartridge faucets are difficult to set a comfortable temperature within 35 - 41 degrees. This is due to the fact that inexpensive analogues of such mixers have a small angle for adjusting the water temperature. This design does not allow for precise adjustment, which is not inferior in accuracy to faucets with a ceramic faucet. But disk models from well-known brand manufacturers have wide angle settings up to 15 degrees, which allows you to quickly and easily obtain the required water temperature. This functionality is achieved due to the special design and high-quality material of the parts.
How to properly disassemble a disk mixer
If the plates in the faucet sleeve break, it is necessary to disassemble the mixer. To do this you will need the following tools: screwdriver and hex wrench.
Instructions:
Tip: before buying a new cartridge for the mixer, you need to take with you the old disk that has already failed. The thing is that cartridges can have different hole diameters (3 or 4 cm) and latches on the bottom plate of the cartridge. Therefore, there is a risk of purchasing a larger or smaller disk. Also, when choosing a new cartridge, you need to pay attention to the disk with a silicone gasket, since it is less susceptible to water.
How to properly disassemble a ball mixer
This type of single lever faucet is as easy to disassemble as a cartridge faucet. It should be borne in mind that if a serious breakdown occurs, you will have to replace the entire mixer. If the malfunctions in the operation of the faucet are insignificant (for example, when the faucet is turned on at full power, the flow of water is weak), you need to disassemble the faucet and repair it yourself. The cause of such a breakdown may be a clogged faucet. abrasive substances.
Instructions:
- Remove the nut from the faucet spout.
- Pull out the mesh, rinsing it with water.
- Place the nut and screen back into the mixer.
If the tap is leaking, it is necessary replace rubber seals for new ones. To do this you will need: a screwdriver and a hex key.
Instructions for replacing the rubber seal:
- The screw is unscrewed and the lever is removed.
- The connection is removed from the thread, then the screw is unscrewed with a screwdriver. Usually plaque collects on it, which needs to be removed with a cloth.
- The rubber seals are removed and replaced with new ones. The ball is also removed.
- After replacing the gaskets, the ball is installed in its place. The seals are secured with a plastic nut.
- The lever is installed and the screw is fixed. Finally, you need to check the operation of the mixer system by opening the tap. There should be no water leaks.
Prevention of breakdowns of a single-lever mixer
In order for joystick taps to serve for a long time, it is necessary:
Knowing the diagram and operating principle of single-lever mixers, you can independently repair a failed joystick tap.
How to repair a faucet (video)
Of all the plumbing fixtures and devices installed in an apartment or house, the most frequently used category is probably the kitchen faucet. Cooking food, washing dishes, fruits or vegetables, taking water for drinking or boiling, carrying out wet cleaning in the kitchen, a lot of other small household needs - and all this falls on him. It is not surprising that sooner or later a moment comes when the intended operational resources of even the highest quality mixer are exhausted, and certain problems appear in its operation. The likelihood of such a situation will be even higher if at one time, for reasons of economy, an inexpensive mixer of dubious quality was purchased, and the water coming from the mains is not clean, or the condition of the water pipes does not stand up to criticism.
A malfunction immediately causes a lot of unpleasant problems that significantly complicate the normal functioning of the kitchen. What to do - call a plumber or run out and buy a new appliance? Do not rush - these are extreme measures, but first you can try to repair the faucet in the kitchen with your own hands. As practice shows, the overwhelming majority of the most common faults can be repaired. And in the process of restoring the mixer itself, there are usually no operations of such a high level of complexity that they would be inaccessible to the average apartment owner to perform independently.
What are the symptoms of mixer malfunctions?
What obvious and not so obvious signs will tell the owner that the condition of the kitchen faucet should be taken seriously?
- There are always traces of dampness under the kitchen sink, and sometimes even a puddle accumulates. Such problems are the most dangerous, since they are often not noticed immediately, and the “signal” often comes from neighbors below who have a wet spot on their stream.
Of course, more likely the reason lies in a malfunction of the drainage system or poor sealing of the sink in the countertop.
How to fix kitchen sink drainage problems?
Emergency situations in the drainage system - enough common phenomenon, especially in the kitchen. Read what to do if it leaks in a special publication on our portal.
However, if the siphon is absolutely dry, and the gaps around the perimeter of the sink are properly sealed, then you need to look for leaks in the water supply - on the hoses themselves, at the point of their connection with the water pipes, or at the entrance to the mixer itself. Another possible reason is a poor fit or misalignment of the sealing gasket between the faucet and the sink.
- Continuous drops or trickle of water from from liva when the mixer itself is in the “closed” position. This is a clear sign wear of seals or ceramic parts of the valve part.
- A permanent puddle of water near the faucet body. Possible causes are cracks in the body or wear of the O-rings in the rotary spout block.
- Water constantly, in any position of the mixer, leaks from under the valves or the adjusting lever. This may be a consequence of wear of the seals on the axle-box valves, insufficient tightening of the threaded couplings (nuts), cracks in the housing, or failure of the cartridge.
- The rotation of the valves or the movement of the lever-handle is difficult, uneven, and difficulties arise in accurately adjusting the pressure and temperature of the water. This can be caused by the formation of limescale, the ingress of solid particles into rubbing parts, wear of mechanical components or their complete failure.
- Insufficient pressure, when everyone the fact that at other water collection points in the apartment (house) there is no such problem. The reasons may be a clogged aerator nozzle, a decrease in the clearance of the internal channels of the mixer, pinched gaskets on the supply lines, poor passage of pipes or flexible hoses.
- Similar reasons can cause strong noise or vibration with seemingly normal water pressure.
The procedure and features of self-troubleshooting techniques, depending on the type of mixer, can vary significantly. It is important to note the following - the vast majority of standard models can be repaired. However, if a complex modern device with thermostatic control or even with electronic touch control is installed, then taking the liberty of disassembling and searching for the causes of abnormal operation is still not recommended, especially when the mixer is still under warranty. In this situation, it would still be wiser to find a truly qualified specialist (most plumbers in advertisements are also in this matter hardly help), or contact customer service.
The author expresses the hope that this publication will help non-specialists understand the issues of installing and repairing a mixer, assess their strengths and make the right decision about the possibility of carrying out the work independently.
Find out how to solve the problems of a cramped bathroom from a new article on our portal.
Problems under the sink
As noted above, constant dampness or puddles under the sink may be a consequence of the emergency condition of the supply from the water pipes to the mixer.
To check the correctness of this assumption, it is necessary to close the mixer and allow the water to flow freely from the sink, so that there is no excess pressure in the siphon. There should be no moisture on the countertop around the sink. Then take a rag and wipe the siphon, supply hoses, and all connecting units - fittings, nuts, couplings dry. After a few minutes it will be possible to visually and to the touch check whether there are signs of water escaping under pressure in the water supply network.
- Particular attention should be paid to the places where hoses are connected to the water supply - leaks often occur here due to corrosion of the edge of the threaded end of an old steel pipe.
The weak point is the connection of the flexible line with old steel pipes If this is really the case, then the best choice would be to reconstruct the home water supply network - replacing it with polypropylene or metal plastic. But this is a large-scale undertaking, and in order to quickly eliminate the leak, you need to bring this connecting node into relative order.
By the way, the figure above shows a fundamentally incorrect connection between a flexible hose and a steel pipe. “Packaging” using FUM tape or tow is completely unnecessary. The hose nut must have a gasket that, when tightly fitted to the end of the pipe, completely prevents water from escaping. But winding can even seriously interfere with the normal sealing of this connection.
It is necessary to check whether the nut is tightened tightly and whether it is loose. However, great efforts should not be made when tightening it - you can squeeze the gasket, and the leak will become even worse.
If tightening does not help, close the general water supply tap to the apartment, unscrew the nut completely, drain the remaining water into a substitute basin and inspect the end of the pipe. If its edge is uneven and corroded, then there will not be a good seal with the hose. In this case, the best solution is to pack a factory-made extension adapter onto the thread (naturally, using FUM, or better yet, tow with a special paste like “Unipac”), the edge of which will ideally fit to the hose gasket.
The sealing material is tightly wound around the threaded part of the pipe in a clockwise direction. Then the adapter is screwed on and tightened tightly with an open-end or gas wrench. Now you can reconnect the hose, tighten the nut with moderate force, open the water supply and check for leaks. Most likely, everything will be fine.
- The second option is that everything is dry at the connections, but you can clearly feel the appearance of water on the hose braid. Cause pretty common– alas, the quality of the hoses is very often low. It happens that the rubber tube located inside the braid breaks, and sometimes the metal ends give rise to cracks, especially if they are made of silumin.
In this case, you should not wait for the problem to develop, but immediately change the eyeliner to a new one. A small leak can suddenly turn into a complete rupture of the hose with all the understandable catastrophic consequences.
To replace the liner, most likely, you will have to temporarily remove the mixer - remove the old hoses and carefully tighten the fittings of the new ones into nests located on the lower end of the device body without dismantling it is extremely difficult, and in many models, simply impossible.
To dismantle the mixer, of course, first turn off the cold and hot water supply taps, release the pressure, then disconnect both flexible hoses from the pipes. Further actions depend on the type of faucet mounting. It's not difficult to figure this out.
— A very common fastening scheme is with studs (one or two), which are screwed into the body from the bottom of the mixer, and nuts that press a horseshoe-shaped plate with a rubber or polymer lining to the underside of the sink.
It is necessary to loosen and twist the nuts from the studs (sometimes during dismantling the stud itself is unscrewed - no big deal), and then pull the mixer up. For nuts, a 10mm wrench is usually used, but you need to be prepared for the fact that in practice you will find 11mm or even 9mm nuts.
After removing the mixer, you can immediately check the condition of the gasket ring between the body and the sink. Its unsatisfactory condition often causes leakage from the surface of the sink down through the mounting hole for the mixer. If the gasket is deformed, you should purchase a new one (it is shown with an arrow in the picture).
The studs usually have slots for a straight or shaped screwdriver. But you don’t have to rely on them too much when dismantling - to unscrew the fastener you will still need force with a wrench. You can use a screwdriver when reassembling the mixer - this will make it easier to fix the studs themselves into the body from the mixer.
— Another type of fastening - the lower part of the mixer itself has a cylindrical threaded part, which is inserted into the mounting hole of the sink, and then a powerful nut is screwed from below, securely fixing the device.
By the way, this design of the mixer sometimes allows you to unscrew the hoses without even dismantling the device itself. But this will not be easy to accomplish.
Imagine working in a very cramped space - under the kitchen sink, where it is almost impossible to find a comfortable position to wind the tool and apply sufficient force. And if there was also a leak at the place where the hoses were connected, then you can often find a generally sad picture when all the nuts are covered with a layer of oxides and limescale, and do not immediately yield to the force of the wrench.
Therefore, many craftsmen advise removing the sink to dismantle and reinstall the kitchen faucet. This is usually not difficult - just remember to disconnect the corrugated drain pipe from the sewer pipe.
Another “advantage” of this approach is that it becomes possible to “refresh” the seal between the sink and the countertop with a new sealant in order to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture getting downwards upon completion of the work. Well, the process of dismantling and installing the mixer will be easier and much better.
Failed hoses cannot be repaired or restored in any way - only replaced! And when choosing a new eyeliner, there may be several options:
— The same, but only high-quality hoses in a flexible metal braid. Be sure to measure the required length so that they are not “tight”, but also do not hang with unnecessary loops. On a pair of hoses, the fittings for connecting to the mixer should be of different lengths - this will facilitate installation.
— A more reliable option is modern corrugated stainless steel hoses. They are tougher and somewhat more difficult to work with. But in terms of durability and reliability, they significantly benefit.
More reliable - corrugated stainless steel hoses — Some craftsmen prefer rigid liners made of metal-plastic pipes. For this, there are special fittings with fittings for transition to the corresponding pipe. You'll have to tinker a little longer, but you won't have to worry about this section in the future.
The procedure for reinstalling the mixer depends on its design.
— If it is fixed with studs, then the hoses are passed through the mounting hole of the sink, first a ring-shaped gasket is put on them, burying the joint between the mixer and the sink, and then the fittings are screwed into nests housings. It will be more convenient to tighten the short fitting first, and then the long one. The fittings have their own sealing rings, but still experts advise making a small winding on the thread - for reliability.
Then the studs are attached, the mixer is installed in the socket, and a gasket and a horseshoe-shaped strip are put on underneath. Now all that remains is to tighten the nuts tightly, while not forgetting to monitor the centering of the device in the center of the mounting hole and how the gasket ring fits.
— If the design of the mixer involves installing it on a nut, then it is better to insert and screw the fittings after fixing the device on the sink.
— The same is done if a rigid metal-plastic liner is planned. In this case, the curved fitting with the fitting is screwed in first, and then the straight one.
If everything is connected, then you can install the sink in place, not forgetting to seal the gap between it and the countertop.
Correct installation of the mixer is the key to its long-term operation
You can learn more about the nuances by reading a special publication on our portal.
And one more tip to finish with the “bottom” problems. If flexible supply hoses are preferred, then installing Aqua-Stop safety valves would be a very reasonable solution. They are packed onto water pipes (maybe instead of those same extension cords), and hoses are already connected to them.
Aqua-stop valve If suddenly the hose Sun If it “explodes”, the valve will immediately shut off the water supply and prevent a flood. It's probably worth spending a little more to ensure safety.
Well, now let’s move on to considering problems with the mixer itself.
Problems from above - troubleshooting faucets
If it is obvious that the mixer is not working as required, water is oozing from it, it does not regulate pressure and temperature, the flywheels or lever turn with difficulty or, conversely, too easily, without blocking the current water, then problems should be looked for in the device itself.
General problems - water leaking through the faucet
The first reason is a housing defect.
— If the taps are working normally, but constant water leaks are visible on the body of the mixer, then with a high degree of probability we can assume that the body has cracked. It may be almost invisible to the eye, but for water it is enough. The reason may lie in the poor quality of the product, in the use of a fragile and corroding metal - silumin - in the manufacture, in excessive tightening of nuts or taps - this can cause the seat to burst, in mechanical damage to the device.
You need to carefully examine the body with a magnifying glass - this usually gives results. And if a crack is detected, then such a mixer can be considered practically unsuitable for further use. Repairing cracks with any composition, including “cold welding”, even if it gives results, but for a very short time and without a guarantee that a more serious accident will not happen at a time when the owners are not at home. The best thing is not to take risks, but to go for a new mixer.
Choosing a kitchen faucet is a responsible task
If circumstances force you to purchase a new faucet, try not to repeat old mistakes and purchase a truly high-quality device. – in a special publication on our portal.
The second reason for leakage is wear of the seals in the rotating spout block.
Kitchen faucets, as a rule, always have a spout that can be rotated around a vertical axis. It is clear that with prolonged use, the seals gradually wear out and begin to leak pressurized water from the housing to the outside.
The solution to this problem is to replace the gaskets (cuffs). And the operating procedure depends on the mixer model.
The easiest way to do a remo nt cmowner who has The spout is located on top and is attached to the body with a nut.
Carefully, so as not to damage the outer coating, use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut, unscrew it, and the spout (or, as it is also called, the gander) is carefully gradually pulled out upward.
On the lower cylindrical part, in special grooves, there are rubber gasket rings - one or two (shown by red arrows). Above, directly under the nut, there is usually another ring - plastic (blue arrows). It is usually split, and does not take a direct part in the process of sealing the hinge - it rather acts as a centering, locking element, and to a certain extent also performs the function of a “sliding bearing”.
If there were leaks in this part, and the spout itself was loose, then all the gaskets should be changed, since they are definitely worn out. The plastic split ring also needs to be replaced.
These spare parts are literally “penny”, and they are easy to find in any plumbing store. It is recommended to take the removed spout with you in order to accurately select gaskets of the required diameter.
Before reassembling the parts, they must be cleaned of any traces of limescale or rust. When placing the rubber rings on the spout shank, be careful not to tear them. To make work easier, you can lightly coat the surface with silicone grease. The rings should fit snugly into their grooves. Place the split plastic ring and not difficult at all.
Once the new gaskets are on, the spout can be put back in place. But first you need to thoroughly wipe the inside of the seat with a soft cloth - there may be limescale or corrosion build-ups there. After cleaning, the shank is progressively, with a certain force, but carefully lowered into the socket until it stops, and then the nut is tightened. Then you can check the flow of the spout from left to right, and the absence of leaks when starting the water.
The situation is somewhat more complicated if the leakage comes from the joints of the swivel spout block in single-lever mixers (a typical leak location is shown by arrows in the figure).
Eliminating such a defect will require disassembling the entire device, which will be discussed below.
Problems in the mixer valve mechanism
The most common problems occur in the operation of the valves that regulate the flow of water into the mixing chamber. These breakdowns make themselves felt by leakage through the valves or the top of the mixer, the inability to completely shut off the water, the difficulty of rotating the flywheels or moving the lever, and unsatisfactory mixing of hot and cold flows. Elimination of defects depends entirely on the design of the mixer - there are many options.
Repair work with a two-valve mixer
The figure shows a schematic diagram of the design of most two-valve mixers.
The housing (item 1) has three socket holes. A spout-gander (item 2), which we have already dealt with above, is installed in the central one. Left and right in nests faucet axle boxes (item 3) of one design or another are screwed in - they are responsible for supplying and shutting off water to the mixing chamber. Rotation is transmitted to them through decorative flywheels (item 4). These flywheels (“wings”) are fixed to the tap stem with a screw (pos. 5), the head of which is closed with a protective cap (pos. 6), which also serves as a color indicator of cold or hot water.
If there are no cracks on the body of the mixers, then all the problems that arise are related to the fact or other defect of the axle-box crane. Some of them you can try to eliminate on your own, while others will require replacing this assembly.
First of all, you need to unscrew the valve axle boxes to determine their type.
To do this, first carefully pry off the protective plastic cap with a knife (for some models it may be on a thread - then it is carefully unscrewed).
Then use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw and, using a progressive movement, carefully remove the handwheel from the splines of the valve stem.
This allows access to hexagon of the valve, through which it will be possible to unscrew it from its socket. Sometimes behind the handwheel there is also a decorative cap that completely hides the tap. It must be carefully unscrewed - usually a hand is enough for this.
After this, the crane axle box itself is unscrewed with an adjustable wrench. Now it should be subject to revision.
Axle-box valves can be of two types - with a progressively moving rubber gasket-latch, or with ceramic plates. It is not difficult to distinguish them even with the mixer assembled - the first type requires several revolutions of the flywheel from the closed position to the closed position, and the second is limited to one revolution, a half, and sometimes even a quarter.
And axleboxes of both types can have both general problems and specific malfunctions. Let's look at it one by one.
- The figure shows a box with a rubber valve, which is given translational motion when the handwheel rotates. Moving down, the valve closes the channel of water flow from the supply into the mixing chamber. And vice versa, the higher the gasket rises, the larger the “window” for the passage of water.
The arrows show the most vulnerable places where leaks most often occur.
1 – wear of the gasket on the valve itself makes it impossible to completely shut off the flow of water into the spout. This usually happens either from prolonged use or when the water is heavily polluted. Solid particles do not allow the gasket to completely block the channel; the user, naturally, tries to tighten the tap even more, thereby pressing these solid inclusions into the rubber. Eventually, from from Faucet leak - constant leakage. The solution in this case is simple - replace the gasket with a new one.
The rubber band itself is held on the rod with a screw (for a screwdriver or, as in the picture, with a hex head), and is protected around the circumference from bursting by a metal shell.
— It is necessary to unscrew the locking screw.
— Then the rubber gasket is pryed off with a thin screwdriver or knife and removed from the shell.
— A new gasket purchased according to the sample is installed in place and secured with a screw.
— After this, you can install the crane axle box in place.
2 – wear of the rubber sealing ring leads to water leakage through the threaded connection of the mixer body and the faucet box at high pressure of open water. This happens infrequently, but it can be eliminated quite easily - by replacing the ring. Etc There is no need to listen to anyone, and in no case should you “pack” the tap with FUM tape or tow - most often this extreme leads to the fact that the nest is damaged T t crack, and after that the entire mixer can only be thrown away.
3 and 4– wear of the internal seals of the valve axle box. This is accompanied by water leakage in the area of the rod, near the flywheel. In this case, the kinematic mechanism of the crane usually suffers - it begins to jam, it is difficult to turn, etc. The optimal solution is a complete replacement of the axle box crane. There are, of course, certain restoration technologies - packing a new oil seal, boring and lapping the screw gear. However, this, firstly, is not possible on all models, and secondly, even the highest quality crane axle boxes are not so expensive to resort to such complex restoration work.
Flaw 2 is equally inherent in axle boxes with a ceramic plate valve, which will now be discussed.
- Axleboxes with a ceramic valve are designed differently.
Blue arrows show stationary parts, green arrows show moving parts.
1- housing in which the entire mechanism is assembled. It has a threaded part for screwing into the mixer socket.
2 – rotary rod with its own sealing rings. Rotation from the rod is transmitted to the movable ceramic plate (item 3). On given It is not visible in the figure, but when assembled, a fluoroplastic gasket is placed in the upper part between the rod and the body, which plays the role of a thrust sliding bearing.
A second ceramic plate (item 4) is fixedly installed in the lower part of the housing. When assembled, it is tightly ground to the movable one. Turning the rod leads to the alignment of the figured cutouts (windows) on the plates - this opens the flow of water. Depending on the combined area, the pressure becomes greater or less. The tap is closed. the windows are diametrically opposite position.
When installed in the mixer, the lower part of the axle box fits tightly to the round feed channel due to the ring silicone gasket (item 5).
When assembled, the axle box is held in place by a locking bracket (item 6) or a washer (depending on the model - a special groove is made in the rotating rod for this clamp. There are clamps in the form of a small threaded rod with a slot for a screwdriver.
To repair axle-box cranes of a similar design, you can find special repair kits - the main thing is that they fit a specific model. What could be the reasons for the crane axle box not working properly:
A– wear or deformation of the silicone gasket on the bottom. When the tap is closed, water continues to flow into the spout. Must be replaced.
b– wear of the sealing ring at the junction of the tap and mixer (exactly Also, as on a tap with a rubber valve).
V– one of the most common reasons is the depletion of the fluoroplastic plate. The tight fit of the rubbing parts (ceramic plates) to each other is disrupted, and when closed, the water does not completely shut off. The defect is easily checked - if you press the axlebox rod from above while water is oozing, the flow stops. Eliminated by replacement fluoroplastic rings for new ones.
G– two sealing rings on the rod prevent water from flowing upward from the body. Wear will make itself felt by leaking water in the flywheel area. To be replaced.
d– abrasive wear of adjacent surfaces of ceramic plates. This doesn’t happen often – plumbers claim that ceramic parts are “the last to go.” A possible reason is heavily polluted water with solid inclusions. The faucet does not hold water and rotates unevenly and with force. If the repair kit contains plates, then they are also easy to change.
The process of overhauling and repairing the crane axle box is shown in detail in the video:
Video: how to repair a ceramic faucet axle box
Well, if it was not possible to find the required kit, you will have to change the crane axlebox completely.
If you need to replace a crane axle box, then to purchase a new one it is best to take the dismantled one with you to the store. The diameter of the landing thread, the installation length of the entire assembly, and other design features are important here. (for example, threads for installing a decorative cap on top) and so on . If desired, you can replace taps with rubber valves with “ceramics” and vice versa. And one more thing - to select an axle box, it is advisable to take the handwheel (lamb) to the store. It happens that the splines of the new axlebox rod do not coincide with the old flywheel.
Before reinstalling the tap, you must thoroughly wipe the seat with a clean cloth - there shouldn't be small debris, limescale - anything that can interfere with the normal screwing and tight fit of the gaskets.
When installing a new axlebox, do not use excessive force - you can damage the body from the mixer or compress the gaskets. It is best to do this - with the water supply closed, the tap is screwed into the socket until it stops by hand. Then the supply is opened, and the tap is carefully turned with a key until water stops coming out from under it.
After this, you can put the decorative cap (if provided), the flywheel in place, fix it with a screw and close the hole with a plug of the corresponding color.
After carrying out these steps, the two-valve mixer should work normally.
Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ceramic cartridge
If problems arise with a single-lever mixer, then there may be two completely different options. Thus, the device may have a valve device in the form of a cylindrical cartridge with ceramic plates inside, or a spherical water flow switch.
First, let's look at the cartridge option.
The problem makes itself felt by the impossibility of blocking the flow from from leakage when the lever is completely lowered, water seeping through the top of the mixer, excessively light or, conversely, difficult movement of the lever with unsatisfactory mixing quality.
The best solution is to replace the cartridge with a new one. Doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might initially seem.
The schematic diagram of a mixer with a cartridge is shown in the figure:
1- metal body with mixer.
2 – cartridge.
3 – clamping fixing nut that holds the cartridge in a tightly pressed position in the body. Usually it is buried on top with a decorative cap (item 4).
5 – mixer handle, fixed on the plastic lever of the cartridge with a screw (item 6)
7 – swivel spout. The tightness of this moving unit is ensured by two o-ring gaskets (item 8), and the smooth running is ensured by fluoroplastic rings (item 9) acting as sliding bearings.
10 – flow aerator located at the end of the spout. To seal its installation, a gasket (pos. 11) is used.
In order to replace the cartridge, work is performed in the following sequence:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The picture shows a set of tools that may be needed to replace the cartridge. |
 | The first step is to carefully pry up and remove the plug that covers the hole for access to the screw securing the handle. Sometimes the plug and screw, in some models, are located at the top of the handle - this is easy to determine. If the repair is carried out without removing the mixer from the sink, it is recommended to close the drain hole - small parts really “like” to fall into it. |
 | Try shining a flashlight into the opened hole to determine which head has the retaining screw. There may be a straight screwdriver, a curved screwdriver, or a hexagon screwdriver. Use a suitable wrench or screwdriver to loosen this screw. There may be surprises here - it does not always give in immediately, especially if water has leaked through the top of the mixer. Using brute force is not recommended, as you can tear off the splines, and removal can become a really big problem. It's best to try spraying the screw with WD-40 and letting it "go away." |
 | After the screw is loosened or unscrewed, the handle is carefully removed from the cartridge lever upwards. |
 | The next task is to unscrew the decorative cap. It usually yields to hand force. If not, then you can try to move it out of place with a gas wrench or pliers, but only very “gently”, trying not to scratch the coating or deform the thin metal. |
| After removing the cap, the retaining clamp nut will open. |
 | Using an adjustable or regular open-end wrench of the required size, the nut is unscrewed counterclockwise... |
 | ... and is pulled up, completely releasing the cartridge. |
 | The cartridge is now very easy to remove simply with your fingers, without resorting to any tool. |
 | Do not rush to throw away the dismantled old cartridge - you will need it to purchase a new one. The fact is that there are many models of different standards, differing in diameter, height, channel arrangement, etc. But it won’t be difficult to find a new one in the store based on the sample. |
 | Before installing a new cartridge, you must thoroughly clean the cylindrical cavity inside the case with a soft cloth - there should be no rust, lime deposits, or small particles left there. Installing a new cartridge correctly is not difficult, since almost all models have centering protrusions that must coincide with the corresponding recesses in the body. |
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Again, it is necessary to warn you that you should not use excessive force when screwing the fixing nut, as this can deform the cartridge body or the rubber seals located underneath. It's best to give it a short puff, then turn on the water and check to see if it's coming into the sides of the cartridge. If a leak is detected, slowly tighten the nut until the leak stops.
You can immediately focus on the already mentioned leak in the swivel spout block. The cartridge is here - absolutely nothing how, and the problem is caused by wear of the sealing rings (in the diagram above - item 8). Some models use cuffs instead of rings - this will be visible after disassembly.
To replace the seals, the mixer will have to be disassembled even further in order to remove the rotating spout block from the body. Options may vary depending on the mixer model. So, it happens that this unit is removed upwards - locked with a special cylindrical coupling. But still, more often it is removed in the direction of connecting the supply hoses. For disassembly, in this case, it is impossible to avoid completely dismantling the mixer from the sink (how this is done is already described above).
- A ring-shaped lock nut will be visible from below. Unscrew it - a fluoroplastic ring will be revealed under it.
- Carefully, so as not to damage it, it is removed, and then the entire rotating spout block is removed from the body downwards.
- Now we get to the gaskets (as shown in the diagram above) or cuffs (see picture below).
- These seals will have to be replaced by purchasing new ones based on the sample in the store. At the same time, you can check the condition of the fluoroplastic rings at the top and bottom - perhaps they are also already very worn.
Some craftsmen practice winding to restore the sealing properties of these seals. But still, the optimal solution would be to completely replace them.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. At the same time, do not forget to install fluoroplastic rings on top and bottom of the rotating block.
Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch block
Not all single-lever faucets have the cartridge discussed above inside - many of them are equipped with a ball-shaped valve assembly. A typical design diagram of such devices is shown in the figure:
Top down:
The mixer handle (pos. 1), fixed with a screw (pos. 2), which is covered with a cap (pos. 3).
Below is a metal cap (item 4), which secures the entire valve mechanism in the mixer body. Under it there is a plastic cam with a shaped washer (item 5) - they limit the movement of the ball lever in a certain range. The washer has a dome-shaped bottom and a rubber seal around the circumference for a tight fit to the ball.
The mixing ball itself (item 6), hollow inside, has holes for the passage of water from the liner and exit into the rotary spout block.
From below, rubber valve seats (pos. 7) fit tightly to the ball, which are constantly pressed against its surface by springs (pos. 8).
The design of the mixer below is no longer fundamentally different from that discussed above - a rotary spout block (item 9) with grooves (item 10) for sealing rings (item 11). The entire structure is assembled in a brass body (item 12). An additional aerator (item 13) can also be located inside, providing better mixing of water before being supplied to the spout.
We will not consider problems with spouting - they are practically no different from what has already been stated above. Let's just focus on repairing the valve mechanism.
- Removing the mixer handle is almost the same. The only difference is that the lever on which the handle is attached not rectangular polymer, like a cartridge, but in the form of a metal pin with a groove for a fixing screw.
- To disassemble, you first need to carefully unscrew the top cap. It may have slots on the outside for gripping with a key, or four grooves on the top inside. Of course, it would be better to use a special key. But if it is not there, then the cap is removed from its place, carefully knocking it counterclockwise against the groove with a screwdriver. Another option is to insert round nose pliers into the grooves from the inside.
- When the cap is removed, remove the cam with the washer. You can immediately remove any existing dirt or deposits with a soft cloth.
- Then the ball itself is taken out and the entire valve part is carefully examined.
Valve part with the ball removed - top view The reasons for malfunction may be the following:
- The upper dome washer is dirty or worn (orange arrow). Occurs infrequently, usually eliminated by simply cleaning the surface. The spherical seat for the ball in the body itself is checked in the same way - it also needs to be cleaned.
- Wear of the ball itself (green arrow) - cracks, grooves, etc. It can only be eliminated by replacing it with a new one.
- Wear or deformation of the valve seats (blue arrows) - they do not fit tightly to the surface of the ball and begin to leak water. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
- Weakening and sagging of the springs (red arrows) do not ensure that the seats are tightly pressed to the ball. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
If you purchase a repair kit, then repairs are easy.
- Using a thin screwdriver, remove the old valve seats. Then the springs are removed in the same way.
- After thoroughly cleaning the mixer cavity, begin assembly in the reverse order.
- Springs are inserted into the new seats, and then this assembly is carefully placed in the socket until it stops.
- A thin layer of silicone grease is applied to the cleaned surface of the ball. Then it is installed in the body so that the limiting protrusion on the body fits into the figured groove on the ball.
- Next, a plastic assembly is installed - a shaped dome washer and a cam. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, since there is a groove in the body, and a corresponding protrusion on the cam.
- The upper metal cap is attached and screwed on.
- The mixer handle is placed on the stem and secured with a screw.
At this point, the repair of the faucet with a ball valve can be considered complete.
For greater clarity - disassembly and assembly of a mixer with a ball valve in the video:
Video: disassembling a mixer with a ball valve mechanism
Aerator clogged
Another common problem with the operation of the mixer is poor pressure when the taps are fully open. The problem is usually a clogged flow aerator located at the end of the spout.
Fixing such a problem is very simple.
First you need to unscrew the aerator itself. He can even succumb to the force of his hand. If not, don’t worry, it has two slots for winding the key.
Inside, there will probably be an accumulation of solid impurities that interfere with the free passage of water. They can be washed off by directing a powerful pressure from the back of the mesh.
If this measure does not help, then you can disassemble the aerator by carefully lifting the plastic mesh upwards. Small particles may have entered the cavity of the device and clogged the holes. You will have to work with a needle or toothpick to clean them.
It often happens that the blockage becomes “fatal” and cannot be cleaned mechanically. There is nothing to do - take the removed aerator for a sample and purchase a new one.
They are not that expensive, and you can easily afford periodic replacement. But if this situation occurs often, then it is worth thinking about the fact that the quality of tap water is extremely low, it is oversaturated with solid inclusions, and requires the mandatory installation of at least mechanical filters.
Find out, and also read useful recommendations, from our new article.
This preventive measure will ensure longer operation of the entire mixer as a whole - suspended particles will not have an abrasive effect on rubber and silicone seals and on the ceramic plates of the valve mechanism.
